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fvike

Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread

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Thanks guys.

Me and my friend Roger installed the Scott Drake needle bearing clutch pedal kit yesterday. Earlier I had acid washed the pedal support bracket and the old bushings fell out by themselves, so I didn't need to hack them out which I have read is a real PITA.

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The part has been painted, and the one side has been installed. Under the bracket there is a new brake pedal shaft that follows the kit. It doesn't have a groove for the securing clip, but a hole for the redbrown pin to the left. I wanted to use the original shaft, because nothing was wrong with it. and it is OEM. That would cause us some trouble later. Tuned out that the needle bearings was to wide for the securing clip to be mounted, so we put it in a vice, and got it on. The pedal binded and was slow. So what we did was removing the bearing from the carrier, and grounded it down 1 mm which is what we needed on that side. We then installed it again, and the pedal moved free. A little modification to get it to function properly, but the evening went. Sometimes small jobs take up a lot of time to get the right result.

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The pin got a new home on the brake pedal.

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Perhaps I should totally restore the securing clip?

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The complete pedal assambly.

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Time for an update. Have got the heater, lower dash, and American Autowire electrical harness in the car. It took me days to get an overview of the electrical harness, lots of planning and pondering there. I've always heard that wiering a car is such a massive job, and I think I know what they mean.

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Started off with the heater. 1/2" Dynaliner behind it on the firewall.

 

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Fusebox is in next. The clutch pedal is out at the moment to fix a minor problem with the locking clip engagement. Basically a washer inside it is too wide.

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The wires to the lights, horns, fans, etc will be routed outside the engine bay.

 

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Wire harness laid up on the lower dash. Now the next job is to rout everything where it needs to go, and then start doing connections.

 

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Also, the splash shields had to be modified to clear the Boss 429-style brace I added. My friend Roger did that, while me and my brother worked on the harness.

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fvike, nice work.  I am in the middle of my American Autowire installation, running wires in the fenderwells, etc.  I have posted a number of pictures of this on the project forum here - "1970 Convertible Restoration".   Would be happy to share some lessons learned.

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On 2.1.2018 at 11:56 PM, Vicfreg said:

fvike, nice work.  I am in the middle of my American Autowire installation, running wires in the fenderwells, etc.  I have posted a number of pictures of this on the project forum here - "1970 Convertible Restoration".   Would be happy to share some lessons learned.

Thanks, I found lots of good info just looking at your pictures.

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fvike, nice work. I am also in the process of installing the AAW wiring harness in my 69 Coupe & I am also running the wiring under the fenders. Check out the last couple pages of my build for pics on how I am running them.

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So, I'm in the middle of another T-56 Magnum transmission swap, but this time as a helper on my brothers 1970 Plymouth  'Cuda. So not much has been done with the Mustang lately. But I did get the Spal dual fans fitted to the radiator yesterday. It was a bit taller than the registry of the radiator, so a little bit of cutting had to be done. I also had to make pockets in the shroud for the hoses and the petcock drain. All in all I'm very satisfied with the installation. Maybe I'll paint the bolts black, but they are galvanized.

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Cutting line for the upper portion. This ridge rests on the weld between the tank and registry on the radiator. So does the bottom one. You can see the hole in the shroud for the upper hose.

 

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Done. The shroud fits very well, and is mounted solid. The radiator is an DeWitts. I'm very happy with the appearance of the radiator. Looks stock.

 

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Mounted in the car, I got just under 1/2" clearance to the alternator pully, but the rubber in the mounting cradles are still a bit tight, so I have some fitting to do with those yet. The upper one don't fit at all.

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On Monday, March 26, 2018 at 3:14 AM, fvike said:

So, I'm in the middle of another T-56 Magnum transmission swap, but this time as a helper on my brothers 1970 Plymouth  'Cuda. So not much has been done with the Mustang lately. But I did get the Spal dual fans fitted to the radiator yesterday. It was a bit taller than the registry of the radiator, so a little bit of cutting had to be done. I also had to make pockets in the shroud for the hoses and the petcock drain. All in all I'm very satisfied with the installation. Maybe I'll paint the bolts black, but they are galvanized.

26144272817_15174288b6_b.jpg

Cutting line for the upper portion. This ridge rests on the weld between the tank and registry on the radiator. So does the bottom one. You can see the hole in the shroud for the upper hose.

 

39207810210_a71002713a_b.jpg

Done. The shroud fits very well, and is mounted solid. The radiator is an DeWitts. I'm very happy with the appearance of the radiator. Looks stock.

 

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Mounted in the car, I got just under 1/2" clearance to the alternator pully, but the rubber in the mounting cradles are still a bit tight, so I have some fitting to do with those yet. The upper one don't fit at all.

Who makes that body saw ? I used to buy the ridgid saws from home depot but they are discontinued ,the only saw we can get here now is crap

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6 hours ago, fvike said:

It's made by Bahco, but I don't think they have any outlets in the US. But i found it on Amazon. But beware, this saw uses it's unique blades, It won't accept standard blades.

https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Bp824-Large-Premium-Body/dp/B005HVW1R2

 

At $425, the blades would be the least of my worries :)

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@Vicfreg and @Mike65, you both are ahead of me in the AAW trail. Can you help me with these questions?

1. The back of the ignition switch is supposed to have a light. It isn't supplied in the kit. Did you just cut it out of the old harness, and if so, where did you power it from?

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2. The P pin to the light switch is not in the AAW kit. Is this the parking light function in the front blinkers? Is that function not in the AAW kit?

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3. I can not find anywhere in the AAW kit that power the lights in the deluxe doors. Where did you power those from?

 

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fvike, 

  I can not help you with the door panel lights my Coupe has the standard interior. As far as the ignition switch light I used one of the spare gray wires (8B thru 8F) from the AAW dash lamp feeds that I did not use that I plugged in to for power for the ignition switch light. It is on page #-5, 4th line down of the installation instructions.  I hope that helps you out.

Mike.

 

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On 6/5/2018 at 12:20 AM, Alan_Mac said:

Its been a couple of months since you last update,  are you procrastinating again?  Alan 

 

Frequently. So here's an update to what I've been doing this summer. 

I can be quite disorganized at times, that is probably why I started to do the rear electrical harness. Did not finish it, because the trunk lid is not on the car, and I need it to have the correct length for the trunk light. This is typical of me.

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I'm using a soft cloth tape for the interior.

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Assembled the steering column, and found out that I never had the harness cover. So I got one from WCCC I think it was. Needs to be painted still.

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I converted the AAW GM type steering column harness connector to the OEM type which I sourced from my original harness. The male connector is not in reproduction. I got the pins from @Midlife. Thanks again!

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Built the harness for the console the other day. I installed an USB dock in the back of it. I have the '70 console box without the cigarette lighter. this is the backside of the box.

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I just realized that I do not have a picture inside the box of the USB unit. Doesn't matter though, cause It's comming apart again when I try my hand at flocking it. 

The two flip-up cover switches in the console is for the fan override, and the to open the Accusump solenoid. The switches was in the car when I got it, so I never removed them. Back then only one was used, it turned on the fans. It had no controller or probe then. Now I'll be using a Auto Cool Guy controller.

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Also changed the console pod instruments form mechanical oil and water to electrical oil and volts.

I also wired up the harness for the transmission rear lockup controller and reverse lights connector. I use a different tape to the external wiring. It's still a cloth type tape, but it is weatherproof. Both these tapes (The other from the previous post) are what Audi / Volkswagen use. I have seen them in my Audi, and bought them from my local VW dealer.

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Trying to tape up stuff like the OEMs with strain relief in the splits.

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