Affordable Mods for 302

[stella69 10]

I plan on doing a lot of body/performance work this winter. I have already have a good list of parts I deemed important. 650cfm carb, performance intake, new radiator/fan, pertronix ignition, headers, etc. However, I haven't decided on any mods I want to do to the motor itself. I can't go out and buy a crate racing motor, like we all wish we could. I have heard some things about affordable mods, but I've heard too many variations. I've heard 289 heads will help, but I've also heard newer mustang or explorer heads are better. Any other suggestions about new cams, cranks, heads, or any other fairly affordable mods that will help the 302? I appreciate any feedback!

[Mike65 475]

This would be of interest to me also as I lan on keeping my 302 in my 69 Coupe. I was thinking of replacing the heads, cam & intake.

[69gmachine 15]

"Affordable" is relative, so not knowing what your budget is, if you shop around for used aluminum aftermarket heads you will be way ahead of the marginal gains you would get from 289 heads.

 

IMO cam, heads and rear end gears will make the biggest seat of the pants difference from a limited budget. Later model GT40 heads would be better than 289 heads. A Comp Cams 278H (or equivalent) is a good mild performance flat tappet cam that will work with the stock press in rocker studs should you need to make your upgrades in stages.

 

 

The best part is, all of this free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it ;)

Edited August 1, 2012 by 69gmachine
spelling

[latoracing 256]

What type of "Budget" is there for the mods? Are you wanting to pick up 30hp? What do you want your motor to do...? These are the questions that I asked myself on a daily basis for a while. I like 8.2 deck motors, and thought of building one in a 363 flavor. My build is not a daily driver though. For a daily driver, I would try and find a Fox body Mustang and do a transplant of the drive train, EFI is nice when it is freezing out, and good fuel milage. Head, cam and intake packadges are a good way to go, if it is within your funding, they are proven to work. BIG subject, open to all points of view.

Look up a mag. on line and search some of their articles, there are a good way to figure out what you want to do, before you spend a dime. Best of luck with your mods!

[Cornerstone 15]

How much can you spend? We want to know!!!

[jholmes217 65]

Swap meets, Craigslist and Ebay are your best friends when trying to get a good build on a budget. Figure out what parts you want, and try your best to stick to it. For example, stay away from single plane intake manifolds, even if you luck into one for 25 dollars. It could throw off the rest of your build. I personally wouldn't go with a used camshaft and lifters, but pretty much everything else is fair game. On my 302, I went with ported and polished 1970 351 windsor heads with 1.94 intake and 1.6 exhaust valves that were complete with roller rockers with $600, a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake for $50, a Holley 600 for $50 that I rebuilt, and Accell breakerless electronic billit distributor for $75, and Accell Supercoil for $15. The .040 302 shortblock was $600. The stuff is out there, and you will save even more money by doing as much of the work as you can yourself.

 

However, if you can get really good deals on parts you don't plan to use for your build, still get them as you can use them for trading material or sell for a higher price to get the parts you do want. For example, unless you build a really radical 302, that 650 carb might be too much.

[sportsroof69 13]

Best seat of the pants, budget mod.....gears

[jholmes217 65]

Best seat of the pants, budget mod.....gears

 

True, but he also needs to get his plan together and stick to it. If he wants to be able to go highway speeds of 70 mph for extended trips, then he isn't going to do himself any favors if he stays with a C4 automatic or 4 speed and puts a 4.11 in the rear end. Those gears would be great for a stoplight bandit that would be just in town or country roads though, or if he goes with a 5 speed or overdrive.

[sportsroof69 13]

He doesn't have to do 4.10s. Anything is better than a 2.75, and once you starting putting mods on an engine to increase performance, it typically moves the power range up in the RPMs, and those stock gears will make it even more of a dog from stoplight to stoplight.

 

Some 3.50s, or 3.70s would do wonders. I live in the middle of nowhere, so I have to get on the highway every time I drive my car. I can run 65 MPH all day with 3.70s, and a C4 with a 5000 stall.

[jholmes217 65]

I was just using 4.11 as an example from past experience. I had a 66 coupe with a 4 speed and a 4.11 locker rear end. It would tach 4000 rpm at 55 mph back when that was the spped limit. These days with 70 mph speed limits, that would put the rpms too high for my personal taste on a long trip.

 

I agree that 3.50 to 3.70ish is a good dual purpose street rear end gear.

 

What color blue is your car by the way Sportsroof? I like that color. I had a 1998 BMW M3 when I was in Germany that was a real similar color, and it was Estorial Blue.

[sportsroof69 13]

Yeah I understand. I had 4.10s last year, and it didn't bother me, but it's all about what you're willing to put up with.

 

It's a Dodge color....shhhhhhh, don't tell anyone, lol

 

It's Viper Blue. Hopefully soon to be Wimbledon White :)

[Lemon Owner 11]

I think with all the mods you are doing with the pertronix, headers and intake the next logical step would be a mild to medium cam. It is cheap at $200 (with new lifters and chain), coupled with the other mods probably deliver another 20hp. Bang for buck it desn't get much cheaper than that!

[MaxLT 10]

I'd go with 1.7-1 roller tip rocker arms, and cam upgrade first and also better heads if you can afford it.

[Must1969 10]

Not sure if this helps ,but on mine I went with an electric cooling fan to get rid of the belt drive. I got a dual fan out of a new wrecked cobra in a junk yard for $50.00 shaved out the middle and plastic welded then back together and it fits in perfect. This got rid of a little drag on the motor from the belt fan. I also went with 351 heads for $25 bucks found an edelbrock 289/302 performer intake for $75 on craigslist and a holly 600 for $25 also on craigslist (this one was a steal). Not crazy upgrades but should give me a few more horses than the plain jane 302 that came with also added a slight cam/lifter upgrade and roller rockers. [ATTACH]11973[/ATTACH]

Edited August 3, 2012 by Must1969
Forgot Info

[stella69 10]

Just to clear everyone up, I have about two grand I could drop in the motor if it meant significant difference. Right now what I have planned is performer intake manifold, 600 cfm carb, pertronix ignition system, aluminum radiator/new fan, headers, 5 speed, and 3.73 posi in the rear. I'm considering going with a 347 stroker kit along with some racing cams and new heads. I'm trying to decide if I want to go with the 347 or not. Also, if I got the GT40 heads, do I need to do any modifications to install them or are they bolt on?

[MaxLT 10]

Those heads will bolt right on but the exhaust ports are different so you'll need new headers or exhaust manifolds along with them.

 

If you have that much to spend, since there is no substitute for cubic inches, why not invest it in a budget 351w build. They can make lot's more hp and cost almost the same to build and are pretty easy to find.

[stella69 10]

MaxLT- So if I were to get the explorer GT40 heads they would bolt right up, but I'd have to find headers for an explorer? Also, I agree that there is no substitute for ci. My thought process though was that my car was already set up for a 302, I've already ordered quite a few parts for a 302, etc. Not only that, but anyone could drop in an over-sized big block and go fast. I find the challenge in taking an innocent little 302 and building something mean.

[Fordrevhead 29]

Before you drop that much in bolt ons, which can easily be done, how many miles on the bottom end? I learned a lesson the hard way when I was about 16 putting new heads and exhaust on an old bottom end.

[stella69 10]

She's got about 130k.

[69gmachine 15]

MaxLT- So if I were to get the explorer GT40 heads they would bolt right up, but I'd have to find headers for an explorer?

 

It's the GT40P heads that have the different spark plug angle requiring unique headers. They are much more common than the GT40 heads. The GT40 heads have ports that are almost identical to an early 351W but use the modern sled fulcrum bolt down rocker arms and water passages. I believe the GT40 heads came on the '95 R model Mustang and possibly the '94 Lightning trucks. They were available over the counter back in the 90s. The are a couple of draw backs to using old 351W heads. First, the larger chambers would require new pistons with less dish to keep the compression up, but if that's already planned, then that would be a cheap upgrade. Second, the press in rocker studs limit how much cam you can use, and spending the money to machine them for screw in studs and a good valve job approaches good used aluminum heads.

[SM69Mach 68]

It's the GT40P heads that have the different spark plug angle requiring unique headers. They are much more common than the GT40 heads. The GT40 heads have ports that are almost identical to an early 351W but use the modern sled fulcrum bolt down rocker arms and water passages. I believe the GT40 heads came on the '95 R model Mustang and possibly the '94 Lightning trucks. They were available over the counter back in the 90s. The are a couple of draw backs to using old 351W heads. First, the larger chambers would require new pistons with less dish to keep the compression up, but if that's already planned, then that would be a cheap upgrade. Second, the press in rocker studs limit how much cam you can use, and spending the money to machine them for screw in studs and a good valve job approaches good used aluminum heads.

 

 

The GT40 (non P) version also came on the 94-95 Cobras and I think the 93 Cobra as well.