ownedsince74 10 Report post Posted July 22, 2012 So I bought one of those new 69-70 console assemblies from NPD for my 69 Mach 1 to replace the salvage yard one I had bought 15 years ago that was looking pretty ratty. Everyhthing was pretty straight forward until I got to the part where I have to mount the teakwood decorative trim piece to the console. The instructions say to use a 3M automotive adhesive and "heatstaking" to mount the trim piece. See attached photos. What exactly is meant by heatstaking? Does this mean to just gob some of the 3M adhesive to the pins and hit it with the heat gun? Is the 3M adhesive in the attached photo the correct type? This console was a little expensive so I don't want to screw it up. Anybody have experience with assembling a 69 reproduction console? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted July 22, 2012 Heat staking the pins is just melting the tips down. The use of heated rod (or old butterknife)over a stove flame will do the trick. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted July 22, 2012 beyond melting the pins, i believe i put a couple dabs of adhesive on various spots to add further support in locations between the pins. i then used a couple of clamps to hold them together while they cured. i can't remember all the details. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MustangGT 11 Report post Posted July 22, 2012 IMHO -- heatsinking is a little over the top. The instructions in the pic you included use the word "...most secure fit." Well, I think whether you lay in there (which is how I plan to do it) or glue it [with today's modern adhesives] it won't matter to the naked eye. Now as you tug on the seat belt off the clip it will move but when parked at a show no one will know and as you are driving it won't make a hill of beans difference. I think being able to lift it up and clean under it would be better than "heatsinking" it down forever. My 2 cents worth... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted July 23, 2012 (edited) OK this is freaky, this same question came up on the same exact date 2 years ago, I just had a big dejavue. Here's the original thread that shows a diagram of the process as done in a factory setting, if you have any plastic kids toys around the house you'll see it's still a fairly common inexpensive assembly practice. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=8446 Edited July 23, 2012 by Pakrat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony 63C 14 Report post Posted July 23, 2012 I opted to use the same large sheetmetal "speed nuts" that hold parts of the instrument cluster together. They spin onto the plastic posts in the same manner, and can be disassembled should the need ever arise. Cheers, Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mymachone 13 Report post Posted July 23, 2012 I opted to use the same large sheetmetal "speed nuts" that hold parts of the instrument cluster together. They spin onto the plastic posts in the same manner, and can be disassembled should the need ever arise. Cheers, Tony I believe this is the way they came from the factory ? At least thats how mine is set up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted July 23, 2012 You could use an internal tooth starwasher or a C-clip as well for that matter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony 63C 14 Report post Posted July 23, 2012 I believe this is the way they came from the factory ? At least thats how mine is set up. I think you're right. It's been two or three years since I was working on the console. Regards, Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted July 23, 2012 IMHO -- heatsinking is a little over the top. The instructions in the pic you included use the word "...most secure fit." Well, I think whether you lay in there (which is how I plan to do it) or glue it [with today's modern adhesives] it won't matter to the naked eye. Now as you tug on the seat belt off the clip it will move but when parked at a show no one will know and as you are driving it won't make a hill of beans difference. I think being able to lift it up and clean under it would be better than "heatsinking" it down forever. My 2 cents worth... my original was heavily bowed upwards in the middle where there weren't additional supports. i don't know if it was the heat from a hot day or what. that was the big reason i secured mine down at more locations. i'm not sure why that trim piece would move as you tug the seat belt off the clip? is it from flexing the much larger console filler panel? if for some reason i have to remove that trim piece, it will probably get ugly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangs-R-me 120 Report post Posted July 23, 2012 I believe this is the way they came from the factory ? At least thats how mine is set up. Just to clarify ... Those "SPEED NUTS" are what hold down the black/chrome shifter bezel panel to the upper console trim panel; not the woodgrain panel itself. The heat staking pins hold the woodgrain trim panel (on deluxe interior cars only) to the black/chrome shifter bezel. .................................... When I replaced my shifter bezel with a Scott Drake re-pop, I re-used my woodgrain panel as it was in really nice shape (both chrome & woodgrain). All the heat staked pins had let go though years ago, so I just glued it down to the new bezel with Automotive "GOOP". It was slightly warped, so I had to put some weight on it until the Goop cured fully. This warpage likely aided in the original heat stake pins failure. Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
