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70Nightmare

Nightmare project

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Yeah u guys are rite I just need to take a break. Thanks for the encouragement.

 

i have been trying to build my 69 since 1999 ... i took it apart to install the pro-motorsports shock tower kit, it snowballed from that point... in many ways than one... over the years job change, career change, garage to no garage... purchased another mustang... 96 Cobra in 99' ... which removed funds from the project etc..

 

lay out your plan ... expect changes.. when your frustrated .. step back... hit this site and others for inspiration ... i have said it more than once... you eat an elephant one bite at a time... :thumbup1: have fun!

 

its gonna be an amazing trip with an amazing ride at the end!!!

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I remember my first attempt at a restoration....Got a '66 coupe that I paid way too much for and was way too rusty. After a year of nothing but replacing sheet metal I cut my losses, which were huge, and sold it. The idea of doing a full restoration is great, until the work begins and then the reality sinks in of just how much work it is. But the silver lining is that, that car provided me with a lot of education. What to look for in a solid car and understanding just how much work is involved.

 

So don't feel bad, I think we all have been in your position a time or two.

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Did you remove the rear suspension before replacement? Did you weld in braces to hold the rest of the metal in position? Did you take measurements according and check them against the shop manual? The chassis measurement page is out there floating around the net, probably somewhere in these forums.

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Well I wanted to extend the frame rail a few inches since it was to close the first time. I got the chassis measurements and went by the measurement and was about inche or 2 off. I just dont feel like messing with it anymore.

Edited by 70Nightmare

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I give up on doing my own rear frame rails repair. I took it to a shop today and took some pics of some of the cars.

 

 

Man, I'm glad you didn't give up on it, in my opinion you've done a lot of good work and I'd like to see you get the reward of it being done.

Bossed

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Update from the shop I took it to. They said body is all messed up and they are going to need to out it on a frame machine so im going to have to try sell it and look for a nice body and swap everything over. This beast was a real nightmare for me. If I wanted them to fix it it will cost 15k to 20 angry face what a bad way to end the year lol.

Edited by 70Nightmare

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That sux's dude. Don't let it getcha down. You'll finding another sportsroof. You might want to change your site name from "70Nightmare" when you do, so you don't jinx your next build. LOL

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I know how you feel!! When I bought my 70 Mach, it was a clean ( never wrecked mustang) that just needed very little body work. After taking it to the body shop to prep it for paint, I ran into problem after problem, Now I have 2 new rear quarter, doors, and big bill from the frame shop.

 

I thought about selling it a buying a 69/70 in better shape but after Looking a 3-4 different cars they were all in just as bad shape or worse Then my 70.

 

Good luck.

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70Nightmare,

Bummer. You probably shouldn't have cut away so much at one time in the back and not brace any of it before you cut. I know I'm not the only one on here that noticed that. You start cutting without bracing on these cars and things will move. The shop would have to put it on a frame rack and probably cut away and redo what you did in order to make sure everything is square and straight again. I don't bring this up to be harsh but I don't want you to make the same mistakes later. I've seen professional projects where you see pictures of half the car missing. What you don't see is the measurements taken and parts with marks, holes & notches to help align things during fabrication/re-assembly.

 

One way to save this car I think, is put a chassis under it. Schwartz and Art Morrison are 2 that come to mind.

http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1964-1973-mustang-chassis-full-frame/

http://www.artmorrison.com/maxg.php

I would think the chassis could also help with getting the body squared back up.

 

Chalk it up to lesson learned and don't hesitate to ask questions before you cut.

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I went to go check out a 70 fastback which is pretty solid with surface rust but it does need the driver side floor pan to be finished welded and both quarters need to be replace but it does come with the passenger side quarter panel. Original price is 5500 but he is set on 400 im trying to get it for 3500. The good,power disc brake,ac,9in,351 Windsor auto which I don't need here is the vin 0T02H9135 do u think its a good buy link to pics*

http://s222.photobucket.com/user/wiz998/media/20131115_105823_zps1f381e73.jpg.html?sort=6&o=0

Edited by 70Nightmare

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Looking at the pictures mate roof has me concerned, there are what looks to be dents near the front edge of the windscreen above drivers side. Have you check the cowl area out, what about the area where the fresh air comes in at your feet. Whats the go with the roll bar mate? Are you going to get a body shop to do your quarters, maybe get a quote from a body shop to replace the quarters.

Maybe get someone to go over the car with you and get there thoughts as well mate, $4000 doesn't seem that bad.

Hell I payed $19500 for my 70 mach1 and it needs major body works, my advice is take your time. Make sure you know what its going to cost to rebuild the car, before you go and buy it mate.

Rgs Jason.

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70Nightmare- First, my hat's off to you for your energy and efforts to tackle such a big project. And then to do it in your driveway at the mercy of the elements?! That's some passion for sure. As the others have stated, you can't take too many dimensions before anything is cut or final welded. My current project ('69 coupe) is relatively solid (West Coast origination) and even so, my friend with extensive experience is constantly measuring, checking and re-checking dimensions and lines. As you stated- lesson learned.

 

With regards to your next project-- try to identify EVERYTHING you will need to do and replace. That way you have a realistic idea of the amount of work, and cash outlay. As the previous poster indicated, there are some other areas of the car you should inspect. The hidden areas can become difficult to rework and increase the man-hours required. The "H" would indicate a 2V-351W, so the engine may be original. If you do decide to purchase this 'Stang, I wish you good luck in the next project. You are in a good place for asking questions as you go.:wink:

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Thanks for the encouragement. The 70 stang Im looking at has a way better body then my current and I checked that car over for about 2 hr knocking on it and poking it and its pretty solid and it come with all the original oarts also. I will just need the driver side quarter panel and finish welding up the driver. I have everything else since im going to be swapping over everything elss from my deceased 70 fastback lol.

Edited by 70Nightmare

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Just to let you all know, this '70 (The Nightmare one) is now residing in county of Cornwall (Kernow) UK .

A mate bought it from the guy who imported it, reckon he probably realised he'd bitten off more than he could chew & moved it on like the proverbial hot potato. Anyway, it's going to be fully jigged up & sorted out, these guys know their onions & are highly experienced, so I hope to bring you some updates as work progresses.

 

& plea to 70Nightmare, though... would you be able to provide any history on the engine please? As in what mileage it had covered & exactly what it came out of, it would be great if you could help out :)

 

A couple of pictures on it's first inspection on the lift-

 

IMG_5119_zps0ef6b677.jpg

 

(Chris's 71 Mach1 in the back ground, they restored this one a number of years back)

 

IMG_5091_zps4a59a72b.jpg

 

(Chris the new owner left of pic)

 

IMG_5111_zpsd5edbe83.jpg

 

IMG_5093_zps4b6a262d.jpg

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