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1970 Grabber Green Project

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Got my elbow the other day, cut all the 2" stuff back off and installed 2ea. 28 degree elbows to help with the clutch linkage area clearance. Did some custom cutting and tacked them in place.

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This side didn't want to come out, even with the head removed. I had to unbolt the motor mount and raise the block up to side the header out the top, fun. Once it was out and taken apart, the outboard tubes were welded together.  

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I welded the other section together and cleaned up all the welds with scotch-brite. Some of the areas will be impossible to clean once the header is all assembled, so this needed to be done before final assembly. Once all tack welded together, with the purge running, the main collector was welded in place.
 
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The tubes were welded to the flanges and everything was left to cool off. The inside part of the header flange will be welded the next time I get a free moment, and these are all but finished. 
 
I had a few people asking about back purging, so I did a quick example and a little explaining.
 
Back purging a tube with argon protects the molten puddle on the inside of the tube while welding. I am welding mainly 18ga (.049") 304 /321 stainless steel. There is a thread on Pro Touring .com http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/92168-The-art-of-purge-welding(-back-purging) that gives a better description, if you want to go into more depth.
 
I welded two scrap sections of tubing together, one open, one purged, then cut them in half.
 
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Obviously the one on the left is without argon. As the weld puddle gets exposed to oxygen the weld "sugars" up, gets puffy and contaminated. (there's more to it ,but it is a general idea) The reason that I do not want this inside my headers is this defect can lead to cracking of the weld when it is heat cycled, plus it disrupts airflow. Having to wait on the purge to do it's job, and having to work around a inlet hose is annoying, but well worth the trouble.

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My shipment of parts from Spin Tech showed up. I ordered a oval X pipe kit in the 3" equivalent size along with some custom sized mufflers with the inlets installed close to the bottom and no outlet. 

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The reason for the no outlet is I am not 100% sure of what I want to do for the side exit exhaust. The mufflers are a 4" tall case, 10" wide and 15 1/2" long with 8 spin chambers, hopefully not obnoxiously loud. I'll have to do some rearranging of the pipes, and chop up the X to shrink it down a little. More to come on this

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I have not accomplished much on this poor thing in way over a month. I have been contemplating how to go about running this exhaust and fabricating the transitions from the headers to the X pipe. I have also been hung up on running the under seat riser convertible reinforcements. I cut out a few contour templates of the tunnel area and floor pan, but that's about as far as I got.  The exhaust is going to take up a ton of room in that particular area. I'll do the exhaust first and build the reinforcements after, maybe...

 

I did order some flex couplers, hanger grommets, and some gasket material as I needed all these items to get these parts under the car. They do not make oval flex couplers with a liner, in 4" long versions. So I purchased 3" round and will form them to oval (I've all ready modified one, it's nice) 

 

I have also jumped off the deep end and ordered a present from me to me, should be completed around the first of the year. I'm going to keep everyone in a little suspense, but it connects to this...

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Well, it fits... (and it is not a radiator) 

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Santa came a few days early. I have been looking at these manifolds since the beginning of my build. I was torn between an 8-stack EFI setup, or this...
 
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Forward facing throttle body, cross ram, single plenum with a removable top. Hogan's recommended an oval throttle body as the plenum is wide and short, which I liked anyway. I had them leave the top plate plain a I want to do some 3D milling on the top, just don't know what to put on there yet...
 
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With the top removed you can see all the innards and the amount of work this thing took to make. The pictures do not do this thing justice.
 
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They also stuck me some ports in the rear, where they won't be noticeable.
 
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Hogan's is great to work with and have been building manifolds for years, their work is impressive. I'm sure this will work as good as it looks.
 
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Wow! A work of automotive art......

 

Mike, I assume the small threaded bosses welded on the intake runners at the manifold flange are for the fuel injectors, and they will be plumbed up to the fuel rail that runs just above them?

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The funny thing about ordering this I didn't know what it would end up looking like until I opened the box. I requested a rendering or a similar picture of what they were building, they said no.  Just a little bit of trust was needed there, but it definitely meets my expectations. I have no clue on assembly order. They must have some interesting TIG torch cups to get into some of these places. The welders earn their keep. I wanted to take a picture of the valley pan as they have inscribed the Hogan's logo in it, I like the "hidden" logo. 

 

 I'm going to talk to my local anodizing vendor (Advanced Motorsports Coatings) and see if it is possible to get this died black. They charge by the square inch, might be rather expensive,(like this thing isn't all ready lol) but will help protect the raw aluminum from corroding, well see.

 

The fuel rails and bungs on the intake runners are similar to an OEM setup as the injectors are clipped into the rail and dropped into the intake bungs. The two bolts keep everything in place. Both ends of the rail are threaded so I can have a return or non return style fuel system.  

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