1970 Grabber Green Project

[latoracing 256]

Awaiting a 69 front end for a real cool look :)

 

 

Looking for one, finally decided to go there. With the nose drop and the T/Aish theme going on, ought to look the part. Just something about '69 front ends...

[RPM 1,190]

Seriously? Wow, too cool! 

[latoracing 256]

I took a brake the other day to play with my legos, as I had cleaned up a little, and everything was in place on the passenger's side, just had to try it out.  I dug the cylinder head out of it's box and bolted it to the mock-up block. A make-shift head gasket was made out of some metal packaging protective sheet, and all the ports were taped shut. The new header flange was bolted in place along with the starter fittings, slightly modified to fit the square holes (turns out, it didn't work that great, but I got by).

 

 

Trying to take good pics of this is impossible, there is no room lol. I started my layout with the forward cylinder. All the tubes will hopefully in the 24" range, as I am attempting equal length "Try-Y's". I know that this is not a race car, (as my friend keeps pointing out to me lol) and the equal length header probably really doesn't matter on the street, (I could have bought 3 sets of PREMIUM headers for what I'm into this so far) but I want to try it, so I'm going after it.  Running the first tube was fairy easy, just snap the blocks together, twist as needed and count the blocks as I go. (they represent 1") First tube was 25 blocks, the second was about as easy, a little bit of maneuvering, and it was in place (24 blocks). The third and fourth tube were difficult. The 3" center line bends make for nice flowing tubes, but take up quite a bit of room to route. 

 

 

Several attempts, issues with my rigged starter plugs (they are supposed to go inside of the round tube, not the flange) and a couple of the blocks splitting, I finally was able to get the routing down to where I could get the collector in place. The third tube came in at 26 pieces and the fourth came in at 24. 

 

 

The heater motor was the major obstacle on this side, but is easily cleared. The top view is interesting, to say the least. 

 

 

I really didn't want to have little short starter pieces welded into the header flanges as some of the tubes go right into a bend off the flange. I made a little form to help make these parts go from the 1.75" round to the shape of the flange. The material is 18ga Stainless, so it is fairly easy to manipulate. I need to get the form cleaned up a little so it doesn't scratch the uncovered area, I don't like scratches lol.

 

 

 

I need to make a table for my Porta-Band bandsaw along with a cutting fixture to be able to chop up the U bends into the proper shapes. Using my lego's as a reference, the parts shouldn't be too awful to cut and tack in place, least I hope not. This was tedious, but a bunch of fun. Now to do it in metal...

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

Do you have a an old head to bolt the flange to when you start your welding ? 

[RPM 1,190]

I can't recall if I've posted a pic of the plate I made. I welded a scrap piece of square tube to mound in a vise as I don't have immediate access to a press brake any longer. The table is a piece of 10" x 10" x 3/16" I had on hand. I enjoy using it so much I've yet to return it to portable mode.

[latoracing 256]

Do you have a an old head to bolt the flange to when you start your welding ? 

 

When I get ready to weld the entire assembly together I plan on making a manifold that will be strong enough to keep it from warping and allow the Argon purge to do it's job. I want it to be able to move around as there will be some awkward angles to get at during the welding phase of the build. Hopefully I will be able to weld the tube sections together before putting them into the header flange.

 

I can't recall if I've posted a pic of the plate I made. I welded a scrap piece of square tube to mound in a vise as I don't have immediate access to a press brake any longer. The table is a piece of 10" x 10" x 3/16" I had on hand. I enjoy using it so much I've yet to return it to portable mode.

 

 

That is how I mainly use my saw, minus the plate. I got some 3/16 plate from work and have to figure out how to mount it. The Porta-Cable version has a slight taper on the handle, makes it difficult to hold in the vise without moving. Swag off road makes these types of table adaptors, but not for the saw model I have. I'm fairy sure I might be able to make something that will work, maybe... 

[RPM 1,190]

Swag off road makes these types of table adaptors, but not for the saw model I have.

 

-Swag is who I copied.

 

I'm fairy sure I might be able to make something that will work, maybe...

-fairly sure...

-maybe...

 

Uh Mike, who you trying to kid? With your mega fab skills you could do it blindfolded. I do admire your humility though.

[latoracing 256]

This is the "quickie" version, nothing fancy, just a basic table. It does cut straight and square. I'll get it cleaned up and powder coated, make it look a little better. Will have to make the saw fixture when I get the chance.

 

[Mach427 10]

When you powder coat your table, don't coat the top... I did that to mine and the metal chips embed in the finish and add drag as your move your work piece over the table. Next chance I get I'll sand the top down and polish it up.

[latoracing 256]

Now I've gone and done it, went and regressed a year model for the front of my car. This is a fairly complete, half way decent clip off of a coupe I found on Craigslist. Went and picked it up last night. The lower valance is garbage along with the bumper and attached brackets. (did get another one to replace it though) The head light buckets are in decent shape, but do have a few cracks in the area over the bumper brackets. One tab was still in place on the driver's side, but the passenger side was broken. I have always wanted to try the low temp welding rods out, so when I get ready I'll see if I can fix it by welding.

 

The fenders are in fair condition, as the drivers side rear edge is fairly hammered, but the rest is light surface rust. Since I will be modifying these poor things to fit over my 275 front tires, they will be good candidates to cut up. I can always get re-pops if I severely screw them up. A few pieces of trim are garbage and will need to be replaced along with the inner head light buckets, pretty much nothing left of them on the lower sides. It is all apart and sorted, needing to be put in storage. I'll get a list of pieces that need replacing before I put them away. 

 

[RPM 1,190]

I just love your no fear approach to your Mustang! I'm sure I'm not the only one living vicariously through your build.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

^^^^^^ +1 Wish I had half the talent that Mike has displayed in his build thread.

[RPM 1,190]

^^^^^^ +1 Wish I had half the talent that Mike has displayed in his build thread.

Ain't that the truth!

[latoracing 256]

Ya'll are making me blush (not literally lol) I'm just having some fun, doing what I do. Thanks for all the compliments, I am inspired by so many others and I am glad to return the favor. 

 

I have visions of a full tube chassis Mustang next time...

[latoracing 256]

I have been wanting to upgrade the shop a little more lately and had a very hard time deciding on what would be the appropriate purchase. There are just so many things that I would like, and hopefully will be able to have in the future, but for now I settled on this.

 

 

I have wanted a plasma cutter for several years, but have never laid out the cash for one. I was going to get the XL30 version, but this is one step up and has a bunch more features that will help out with what I do. It has a skip feature so you can cut expanded metal, or in our case, rusted metal without the torch going out. It is also CNC capable (future possible needs), they say it will sever 1", edge start on 3/4" and production cut 1/2" mild steel. Should handle some thinner aluminum and stainless to boot. The unit is small comparing it to the ones I have used at work, they were huge, and wouldn't cut what this little thing will. I will put it through some paces on Vic's convertible, should save a bit of time. 

 

Yea!!! More toys to play with!!!

[RPM 1,190]

Now you're just showing off Mike :) Seriously though, nice machine that will save you time. Most home shops could use one.

[latoracing 256]

Had a moment or four to use the mill at work to conjure up a saw fixture for my header project. They actually sell these, but what fun is buying it ($650.00 for this??? NOT) so I grabbed a chunk of UHMW from the leftover pile and cut out a inside radius block. Making it simple, a 3/8" hole was bored in the center and attached with a countersunk bolt to the aluminum base plate. The sides of the plate were also squared up in the mill, so it wouldn't have any issues with the double guide blocks I still need to make. I cut a relief slot in the center of the plate, referenced off of the 3/8" attachment hole.

 

Using the legos to set the angle of the bent tubing, the bolt is tightened and were ready to cut.

 

 

I had put a few reference marks on this bend and allowed for a little extra on the already trimmed side for forming to the header flange. 

 

 

Holding the tubing tightly to the UHMW block, cutting went nice and easy, first time using it and I didn't know how well it would work.

 

 

I wanted this to cut really straight and square. Sticking the freshly sawed tubing on the plate revealed a nice flat cut. A burr was holding it up slightly, after demurring there was very little gaps.

 

 

Using some of the forming tools I made the other week, the area that goes into the header flange was shaped. I also cut another segment of tubing, using the legos to reference the angle of attachment, and tack welded it in place.

 

 

First trial fit on the car. The tubing doesn't want to stay in the header flange and will need a little trimming to get it sitting a little lower away from the shock tower. For the first two pieces of tubing, it looks like I might be able to make something out of all these bends. 

 

[Vicfreg 772]

Nice. I will have to come see you take that plasma cutter to my convertible just to see the Sparks fly.....

[RPM 1,190]

Nice! Looks like this task won't even hit moderate on the skill level for you.

[latoracing 256]

Nice. I will have to come see you take that plasma cutter to my convertible just to see the Sparks fly.....

 

Come by, I'll let you carve up your floor pan with it. Its like a smoky magic wand, pull the trigger and the metal disappears lol.

[RPM 1,190]

PM sent Mike.

[latoracing 256]

Dabbling a little here and there, more tubes are coming together. Using my legos as a template, each section of tube was cut and tack welded in place. Having a template really takes all the guess work out of it.

 

 

Another quick check with the second tube template before cutting any more tube.

 

 

With the second tube all verified, pieces of tubing were cut one section at a time, tacked together, then put back on the car to mark the next section. It is a bunch of fitting but it helps with misalignment issues and slight template deviation.

 

 

Using a clean piece of aluminum sheet on my welding table helps to prevent the stray grounding arc from marking the tubing while tack welding. I attempt to fuse the tubes together first, but it doesn't always go as plan. A little filler rod makes a very strong tack weld and usually doesn't break. Once all the parts were cut and tacked together the collector was slid in place. 

 

 

I did tack the first tube to the header flange before I started the second tube. I might tack it in place as well. Two down, six to go.

 

[RPM 1,190]

I bet that rotisserie makes a huge difference for ease of access. Looking good as usual Mike! I still can't get over the simplicity and nice look of your engine crossmember/rack & pinion mount

[latoracing 256]

Verifying the tube routing on the second paired run, these went a lot quicker than the first. I skipped #3 and routed #4. Having a straight tube to make the transition from rectangle to round was much easier. 

 

 

 

 

The last tube was interesting. I checked my pattern and it didn't want to fit over the newly tacked together #4 tube. A little bit of re-rerouting it was underway.

 

 

There is one more section to put onto it, and these will be ready for some welding. 

 

 

I did a little inventory of my bends for the other side. Since I am attempting to do "equal" length tubes I used very few straight sections. I guessed on the amount of bend I would need when I ordered them, I have 3 1/2 ish bend left out of 12ea. The Legos really helped with the culls, as I haven't messed up any bends (yet...),  guess I'll get some more bends with less straight sections once I get the other side mocked up.

 

A while back I bought a modified Explorer cam sensor for my engine build. As it was a modified piece, I wasn't too happy with the "modified" part. My buddy sent me a link to Price Motorsports the other day when he saw that they carried a very nice version made to fit a 9.5" Windsor application. http://www.pricemotorsport.com I didn't wait and had them send one out, got it today. It ought to work, and look much better.

 

[latoracing 256]

Cut and tacked the last puzzle piece in place, which completes the primary tube portion.

 

I was curious to see if this web of tubes would actually come out in one piece, afraid not. I had to take all the tubes out of the flange to remove it, so I guess the engine will have to be sat in place after the headers are laid into position. The price you pay for equal length tubes. Reassembled the pieces to get a look with them out of the car

 

 

Totally different looking at them this way compared to being stuffed between the block and shock tower. I am going to get the sections welded up so the lower portion can be built. With only two tubes, it should be much easier than the first part.