latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 Just noticed yours is the opposite direction of mine LOL ,mine is under the dash Yea, I bet that would be quite fun to get fluid safely in there. I have a nice 1.75" bar running in the same area as the end of the master cylinders would be in the reverse position. Hinging the gauge cluster sounds like an interesting task. Don't know why the last time I quoted you it lined out all the words, I really didn't do that on purpose (sorry :) ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 Here is another "little" project I have been working on, like I don't have enough to do lately. I have been hoarding up some material in order to build myself a rotisserie. I could have done the two engine stands, or went and spent $1,400.00 on a complete working rotisserie, but no, I have to do it the hard way. [ A bunch of different sized square tube, a bunch of 3/8" plate, some thinner caster attachment plates and the rotational support tubes. I was able to chop all this stuff up with the cold saw at work, along with making some simple hole patten programs on the CNC mill, for hole repeatability and accuracy. Plus it is much easier to drill a bunch of 3/4" holes with a solidly mounted vice instead of attempting to hold it by hand while using the drill press. I still have a few other holes to drill but they are only 1/2" for some set screws. The main rotational support tube has been machined to accept some Aluma-Bronze bearings, also custom machined just for this application. Both ends of the tube are bushed, so this should turn nice and easily. The inside bore of the bushings is a little over 2", since the "axle" portion is a solid bar of 1018 2" round steel. I still have a little machining to do to those, along with drilling a fairly large hole in two of the main support plates, guess I'll get to that in my "free" time. All told, with all the material, bolts, and casters, I am about half way to the cost of the $1,400.00 model, and I still haven't bought the hydraulic jacks yet. I might not get them, but I'm in this this far, why not make it complete. I'll post some more pics as this becomes a tool from a truck bead of parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 Looks like you are going all out on the rotisserie ,should be nice . I build my own rotisseries as well .Balanced well you don't need the bushings .With the bushings it should turn very easily . I am thinking about using an electric reduction motor on my next one ,it would make it a lot easier when i sand blast to just push a button instead of having to stop and turn the thing . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 Dang Mike, you don't do anything half a$$ed. My rotisserie looks like it was built by a drunk hillbilly compared you yours. That's top shelf buddy. Not the warning points!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 I build mine from 3/16 wall hitch and receiver tube. They just slide together and pin .When i am not using it i can fold it up and store it in the breeze way behind my shop. I have hauled mine on a car trailer with a car on it .I have even picked it up with a fork lift with a car on it .I went double bar connectors because i roll it out to the sand blaster on some pretty un even ground . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 I have been thinking about using two air bumper jacks to build a rotisserie ,i priced them once at around 300 each.all you would need is some larger castors ,a couple of connector bars and build the rotating heads .For around $1,000 you could build a killer rotisserie .These jacks go all the way to the ground and lift around 4 feet high. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 22, 2015 Bob, you are still too funny... Ridge Runner, the off road rotisserie looks like it will work great, and for multiple locations. The bumper jack would be even cooler if you had to put cars on it a bunch, interesting... The tubing I selected for my rotisserie is basically the same "hitch" material, 2", 2.5", and 3" square tube all 3/16" wall. I kinda cheated a little and combined a bunch of other's designs into what I thought might be the best of several great ideas. I wanted this to support what ever I put on it, first and fore most, have a C/L balance system that could be adjusted easily, pick up the car wile on jack stands, and take-up minimal space when not in use. I might not put the hydraulic jacks on it, since I have a lift that will pick it up easily, but make it to where I can put them on in the future. I started out this afternoon wanting to cook some metal together, like I haven't done that all week. The main supports were first to go together, 2.5" tube 72" wide, with a 27.5" leg, and a 1/2" nut for a set screw. Using a couple of pieces of scrap flat bar, and an 11R vice grip, I stuck the two pieces together in the center of the 72" part. Tacked it in place, made certain it was "square" and fried it I enjoy cooking some structure tube together occasionally, keeps me warm in the winter... removed the clamp, and finish welded the other two sides. A little grinding on the top joint for the next part. The main vertical tube is also 2.5", but with 5 (I think) 3/4" holes spaced 3" apart for height adjustment and has a matching plate with 4ea 1/2" holes for attachment. I centered the second plate on top of the base, clamped it in place, and after checking my measurements tacked it. I like to check things before I fry them, cause it is a pain to remove once welded. Then I had some fun welding more 3/8" plate... I welded this plate everywhere i could, since this will be holding up half of a car. Switching from my normal .030" wire to .035" wire makes this type of welding stronger, and quicker. Once that plate was all cooked, I installed the caster plates (which are 1/4" CRS) in the same manner. I had to see how this was going to look once on the floor, so I set the post on the base, just to get a look. I have some of the second base welded up, minus the plates for the casters, as I haven't drilled the holes yet. I'll get them drilled and many get the rest of this welded up soon, so I can try it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 22, 2015 I usually dont take mine apart ,i use my lift to remove the car and almost always have another one to go right back on it .it takes about 20 minutes to bolt it up on the lift . That shop is just a bit to clean ...need to dirty it up a bit . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 23, 2015 Yep, that pristine shop has some OCD going on. Ridge Runner did you notice he didn't post in the messy garage thread? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 23, 2015 LOL ! Yep drop a couple of wrenches here and there ,a few bolts on the floor and a air hose tangled in an extension cord couldn't hurt . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SparkyGT 26 Report post Posted February 23, 2015 i will post up some pics of my rotisserie in a different thread, havent gotten to use it yet. and nice project car and shop latoracing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 23, 2015 Thanks all, it really isn't that clean, see the pile of parts (motor,trans, front suspension, seats, bla bla bla ) from my friend's '93 GT, that is getting on my nerves, but that's what friends are for. lol I scored a neat deal last week, and it came via the Fed-Up dude today, it looks a little bent... but I do believe it will work just fine. It really isn't missing all that much, and is actually very tight all around. These '70 specific tilt columns are stupid money all together, I basically stole this one. Couldn't see spending a ton of cash on an aftermarket column and have a GM style key, eeewwww, this is much better! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted February 24, 2015 Man Mike if you find another killer deal on one how about helping a brother out. :) Your progress is looking great and the work you perform is top notch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted February 26, 2015 Yep, that pristine shop has some OCD going on. Ridge Runner did you notice he didn't post in the messy garage thread? My brother lives in Raleigh, if I get a chance to go out and see him this summer I'll try to swing by and help him messy things up a tad! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 27, 2015 My brother lives in Raleigh, if I get a chance to go out and see him this summer I'll try to swing by and help him messy things up a tad! :) If you want to come by, you are certainly welcome to stop in. There is a fairly nice size mess under the '66 now, might have to take a pic so I can fit in ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted March 1, 2015 There are a few more parts welded together on the rotisserie today. It is a little bit on the cold side to be using any paint products on the '66, so I figured I'd stay warmer welding. I finished up the main lower frame and moved onto the main attachment arms. These are constructed out of 2" square 3/16" wall tubing, 60" long (width wise) and 24" for the adjustment vertical piece. Since this particular weld joint will be seeing half of the applied load of the chassis, I figured it had better be up to the task. I started out fully welding the two tubes together, and sanded the top of the weld off for some plates. I have been known to make things RPG proof, so why should I stop now. I cut some beef-up plates out of some 3/16" CRS (with my"CNC" porta-band as I call it) and tacked them into place. Took a little bit of time to weld everything up all nice and neat, don't think they will come apart anytime soon. Now that the main components are all fairly well done, my pile is looking like I did something. I like the way this "tool" will be able to store in a semi-minimal area when not in use. Just have to fix some arms, the "axle" and adjustment tube area, and some attachment plates for the car, and this might get put into use soon, maybe... 2 IsobelTic and Protowrxs reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Great looking job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rcodenewf 44 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 I certainly admire your welding skills. Wish you could post a short video for those of us who would like to hone our welding skills. Would certainly be appreciated.. :) Are you using .030 wire? John 1 Protowrxs reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 I certainly admire your welding skills. Wish you could post a short video for those of us who would like to hone our welding skills. Would certainly be appreciated.. :) Are you using .030 wire? John This is .035" wire, but use different wire for different material thickness. Do not have a way to produce a video that would be able to help much. It all boils down to technique, positioning, set-up and PRACTICE. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 You sure know how to give a guy an inferiority complex Mike. WTFresno is "RPG proof" ? Excellent work as usual. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 You sure know how to give a guy an inferiority complex Mike. WTFresno is "RPG proof" ? Excellent work as usual. On my VMF thread, Shaun (from SoT) said my shock tower reinforcements were RPG proof, kinda like having something built to "bull-dozer" spec. Sorry about the complex, I'll try to do better :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangnet33 88 Report post Posted March 3, 2015 You remembered to lay down some epoxy o primer before you sealed up the plates right ? If not you better take'em apart and redo .......lol. Looks fantastic so far. I'm in the process of rounding up metal for the same project, so I'll have to watch closely for any idea's I can hijack :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted March 7, 2015 Had a few minutes to play in my building this afternoon and put a few more parts together on the rotisserie. I made the axles at work the other day, but attempted to assemble the part in the bushed receiver, no fitty. So I took them back to work and shaved a few thousands off of the length of the part on our tool room lathe. A little program made it a one button job. So this afternoon I went ahead and welded the outer tube to the upright adjustment portion. 3/4" from the top, a few tacks and a little weld to hold it all in place. I also added the nut for the location pin / rotation lock on the top as well, had to TIG it in place to help with the complex portion :) I have debated about putting a bottle jack on this, since I have a 2 post lift I really don't need the jacks, but if it's worth doing, it's worth over doing. Cut some gussets out of 3/8" plate, which I was going to install anyway along with a hole to pin a jack in place just in case. More tacking, and a few minutes of trigger time and it was all one fairly heavy piece of metal. After these parts cooled off, I attempted to install the axle back into the receiver, the bottom bushing got smaller due to all the heat and welding I put into the area, so those parts will have to go back to work to have some more material removed, I had envisioned this as a problem from the beginning, guess what, warping does screw up tight tolerances. (duh...) Since I was needing to make some arms to attach the car to all of this tube I am going to cheat and use the cold saw at work, which puts an end to my welding for the day. I did stick the casters and the main post along with my freshly welded adjustment portion. Measuring from the top of the forward tube to the center line of the receiver in the top hole is 43", this will hold quite the fat car. I will more than likely use the second from the top hole. With the full swivel double locking casters, it ought to move around easily, and be still when needed. Guess I'll be back on the 66 this week, got more parts and I know Jason wants this done, as I want to get my project back under way... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossed 10 Report post Posted March 8, 2015 Mike, you probably get tired of hearing the compliments, but my goodness, your skills are impressive to say the least!!! I know I'm not the only one who appreciates you showing your ideas and progress, so please, keep em coming. This will be one wicked 70 Grabber Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted March 9, 2015 Mike, you probably get tired of hearing the compliments, but my goodness, your skills are impressive to say the least!!! I know I'm not the only one who appreciates you showing your ideas and progress, so please, keep em coming. This will be one wicked 70 Grabber Uh... Ditto! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
