Rcodenewf 44 Report post Posted December 18, 2014 Mike. Nice work as always. On fixing the door/quarter gap...did you slice the quarter and move it towards the door or did u add metal to the door edge? Any pics of that specific repair? Keep the pics coming. John 2 Miltonlob and IsobelTic reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 18, 2014 John, The quarter was the issue, and I had to cut into my new panel. I removed a triangle slice in the area photographed and welded it back together, checking the fitment along the way. I didn't take pictures along the way, it was pretty straight forward, just paying attention to where the skin and structure come together. Warping is always possible, so this took a while to weld back up. The rest of the door gap looks really close, which is quite scary since this one area spoiled the party. I had a bunch of adjustments to make at the top to get all the body lines spot on. I might beat on it a little more, but it will work the way it is. I will be adding a strip on the bottom of the door, oh what fun that will be. I'll take more pics of that process. Details, details, details... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 27, 2014 Took a hour or so out of my crazy holiday schedule to get a few things accomplished out in the building this morning. I have been needing to build me another set of motor mounts (as these things seem to disappear) for a little while, so I was in the mood to TIG up another set. I broke my 7/16-14tpi tap on the first hole, I usually do not do that, but it happens. I welded the top portion back on and was able to get these all finished. (gotta get a new tap now) They turned out all proper after a little wire brushing. I want to get the block and trans all mocked up in the car again in order to get to work on some headers, and get the measurements for the intake. (more for the intake right now) I have some other projects that I will be working on, so this might slow down quite a bit for a few weeks. I am going to get my rotisserie built in the next few weeks, along with a little side job for Indianfiremach on his '66 convertible. Should be a "fun" time. 1 Mach427 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 13, 2015 Just couldn't see it sit, had to do a little bit to it. I have a few things I need to do in the future that center around the drive line, so I stuck it back in the car. My newly constructed motor mounts worked out fine, and the motor / trans is sitting at a comfortable 3 degrees towards the rear of the car. This is the first time I have installed this in the car since I have completed the new floor. I will have to do a little adjusting as the shifter is slam against the passenger side of the shifter opening. It will be OK. Ordered some more upgrades, will post some pics when the FedUp guy drops by. Fun time is over, got to get back on the '66, it is super crunchy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 13, 2015 First thing I thought when I saw the water passages on the front of your block was, chebby??? Oh, Cleveland, it's a 70. Whew! Scared me Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 13, 2015 First thing I thought when I saw the water passages on the front of your block was, chebby??? Oh, Cleveland, it's a 70. Whew! Scared me Mike. Chebby? Never! It's a Windsor truck block with a nice hole in the left side, just a lump for mocking up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted January 13, 2015 Yeah the chains through the cylinders pretty much gave it away as a mock-up engine block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 13, 2015 Yeah the chains through the cylinders pretty much gave it away as a mock-up engine block. Could you imagine how much damage it would do to a nicely honed block? (lol) I will have to look at the bottom of the cylinders to see if the chain has gouged it yet. This is much better than one of those plastic mock up blocks you can buy, cause this was "free". I do have a chebby sitting on my engine stand, if anyone knows an interested person in need of a 421 complete (carb to pan) engine... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 13, 2015 Sorry to poison your thread with my last 2 posts :( I have no idea what was running thru my multiple concussion and alcohol melted brain. I've got a 69 Windsor block sitting in my shop next to the door and my car. I must walk by it fifty times a day. Father forgive me for I have sinned. Am I still welcome to post??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 13, 2015 Sorry to poison your thread with my last 2 posts :( I have no idea what was running thru my multiple concussion and alcohol melted brain. I've got a 69 Windsor block sitting in my shop next to the door and my car. I must walk by it fifty times a day. Father forgive me for I have sinned. Am I still welcome to post??? Bob, That is funny. You are always welcome to post. (still laughing) I feel if it is american made, it isn't sacrilege. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 15, 2015 Sweet! I'm back! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
justicejr 0 Report post Posted January 18, 2015 Sound like good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 20, 2015 Well, guess I have gone off the deep end as I am going just a little bit more modified. I have always liked back-up systems when it comes to safety, especially brakes. Stopping can be better than going at times, and I plan to do it very well. In order to compliment the upgraded rotors and calipers, I wanted to be able to do just a little more adjusting as far as bias on the system. So, I went there... Willwood pedal assembly, with a trio of master cylinders. As the far left (as seen in the pic) is for the future hydro clutch system, 3/4" bore. The center and far left masters are 1" for the front system, and 7/8" for the rear. The pedal assembly has a balance bar to adjust how much pressure is applied to each master cylinder for a mechanical adjustment, instead of an inline pressure adjustment. Nice, simple, and hopefully useful. I'll have to make a mounting bracket (oh no, not fab work) and "slightly" modify the firewall for these to stick out into the engine bay. No booster needed. Now I need to order an oil pan... 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 20, 2015 Damn! More car p0rn. Very nice stuff, can't go wrong with Wilwood. You won't have any problems unloading your oem pedal assembly, if you even want to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rcodenewf 44 Report post Posted January 20, 2015 Latoracing: Sent you a pm with questions re " wheelhouse" thanks...john Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted February 8, 2015 Very curious to see how you mount the pedals! I was looking at the same system, but maybe doing the floor mounts! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 9, 2015 Very curious to see how you mount the pedals! I was looking at the same system, but maybe doing the floor mounts! Drew up a plate and sent it to the laser cutter for the firewall. Will still have to make some more bracing for the top, but shouldn't be awful. I'll show pics when I get to work on it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 19, 2015 Thought I'd do a little to my not so rust bucket this afternoon. My brake adapter plate was cut out the other day, and I finally remembered to bring it home with me. It was cut out of 11ga CRS which is just a little thicker than the two pieces of metal that are on the car where this will be installed. I made it a little larger top to bottom than it needed to be, just stuck it in the middle of an 8" square plate. I bolted up my stock auto brake pedal and bracket, along with the gas pedal to get some measurements. Measuring to the center of the brake pedal pivot pin from the flat area of the toe board reviled 18". The pin centerline to the bottom of the stock pedal was 13 1/4". The new Wilwood pedal measured 12", at the same places, but the center line of the pivot (in relation to the master cylinder center line) is 1" lower than the Ford part, which will help with positioning. So, I am going to install the new part (as referenced off of the master cylinders C/L horizontal) basically in the same place. As I was measuring for the plate, there will be some "minor" firewall trimming, and other fun items. I wanted to get an idea of just how much material I am going to have to remove, and or modify to get this in place. I thought I'd try a new template material, but I am going back to my previous tape. This painter's tape is to thin, and rips easily. I used the tape, with two layers to make an accurate "template" (like I have done soooo many times before), referenced the steering column center line, and cut out the stock master cylinder holes, to help locate this on my laser cut part. A little tape trimming, and a few more adjustments, I removed the tape template. This blue tape doesn't like to hold it's shape like the 3M auto body tape I usually use, but it is ok. The few areas that wrinkled and tore were simple enough to get back into shape. My C/L that was drawn from the column hole was aligned with a C/L mark I made on the laser cut plate. I will have to basically flatten the area where the stock wiring harness went through the fire wall, and make some fill in parts for that area. I had considered moving the wires to the fender area anyway, now I will have to. I am going aftermarket for wiring, so that shouldn't be a surprise at this point, but will be able to wire the car as neatly as possible. This will help with that as well. More mocking up to come, I am going to drill some holes in the firewall BEFORE I get froggy and remove the area completely to do some more checking. Don't want to have an issue with this layout, that would be very bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 Well, guess I have gone off the deep end as I am going just a little bit more modified. I have always liked back-up systems when it comes to safety, especially brakes. Stopping can be better than going at times, and I plan to do it very well. In order to compliment the upgraded rotors and calipers, I wanted to be able to do just a little more adjusting as far as bias on the system. So, I went there... Willwood pedal assembly, with a trio of master cylinders. As the far left (as seen in the pic) is for the future hydro clutch system, 3/4" bore. The center and far left masters are 1" for the front system, and 7/8" for the rear. The pedal assembly has a balance bar to adjust how much pressure is applied to each master cylinder for a mechanical adjustment, instead of an inline pressure adjustment. Nice, simple, and hopefully useful. I'll have to make a mounting bracket (oh no, not fab work) and "slightly" modify the firewall for these to stick out into the engine bay. No booster needed. Now I need to order an oil pan... I used the same pedal assembly in my 1935 Ford pick up ,the clutch pedal does not have enough throw to completely disengage the clutch with a 3/4 inch bore master cylinder .The pedal pushes so easily i am going to a 1 inch master cylinder to see it it will push enough,it only needs a little . I made an aluminum bracket that bolts to the fire wall to attach the pedal assembly to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 By the way ,the steering column just barely fits between the pedals ,i have an I DID IT column. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 By the way ,the steering column just barely fits between the pedals ,i have an I DID IT column. I used the same pedal assembly in my 1935 Ford pick up ,the clutch pedal does not have enough throw to completely disengage the clutch with a 3/4 inch bore master cylinder .The pedal pushes so easily i am going to a 1 inch master cylinder to see it it will push enough,it only needs a little . I made an aluminum bracket that bolts to the fire wall to attach the pedal assembly to. The column to pedal fit will be on the tight side, but should work fine. I'll post more pics of this process as I get time. The 3/4" master cylinder for the clutch was a recommendation from several different sources including Modern Driveline who suggested it for their hydraulic throw out bearing. I am going to temp install the pedal assembly in the car before cutting anything and check the throw on the pedal to insure there is enough travel for the system to work properly. Guess I have to find out if the 3/4" MC will work, if not, these MC's are not too terribly expensive to get a larger bore. Thanks for the heads up. 1 Ronaldbaf reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 The column to pedal fit will be on the tight side, but should work fine. I'll post more pics of this process as I get time. The 3/4" master cylinder for the clutch was a recommendation from several different sources including Modern Driveline who suggested it for their hydraulic throw out bearing. I am going to temp install the pedal assembly in the car before cutting anything and check the throw on the pedal to insure there is enough travel for the system to work properly. Guess I have to find out if the 3/4" MC will work, if not, these MC's are not too terribly expensive to get a larger bore. Thanks for the heads up. They recommend the 3/4 master cylinder but it doesn't move enough fluid to push my clutch all the way .I can just about push the pedal with one finger it pushes so easy ,it is a new old stock HiPo clutch ,so i think a 1 inch master cylinder will do the trick and should still be able to easily push the pedal .I am using the factory throw out arm so the hydraulic throw out bearing may be different . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted February 20, 2015 Sorry to poison your thread with my last 2 posts :( I have no idea what was running thru my multiple concussion and alcohol melted brain. I've got a 69 Windsor block sitting in my shop next to the door and my car. I must walk by it fifty times a day. Father forgive me for I have sinned. Am I still welcome to post??? What is it with everyone from Alte? Time for me to try out the new warning points system! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 Well, guess I have gone off the deep end as I am going just a little bit more modified. I have always liked back-up systems when it comes to safety, especially brakes. Stopping can be better than going at times, and I plan to do it very well. In order to compliment the upgraded rotors and calipers, I wanted to be able to do just a little more adjusting as far as bias on the system. So, I went there... Willwood pedal assembly, with a trio of master cylinders. As the far left (as seen in the pic) is for the future hydro clutch system, 3/4" bore. The center and far left masters are 1" for the front system, and 7/8" for the rear. The pedal assembly has a balance bar to adjust how much pressure is applied to each master cylinder for a mechanical adjustment, instead of an inline pressure adjustment. Nice, simple, and hopefully useful. I'll have to make a mounting bracket (oh no, not fab work) and "slightly" modify the firewall for these to stick out into the engine bay. No booster needed. Now I need to order an oil pan... This is what i wound up with .I made it out of aluminum .Four bolts bolt it to the fire wall and it is very solid even when pushing the brake and clutch at the same time .The problem is filling the master cylinders ,you could easily fill the carpet . I am going to make the instrument cluster hinge so i can get to the master cylinders . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 21, 2015 Just noticed yours is the opposite direction of mine LOL ,mine is under the dash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
