latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 so it looks like you will be going efi, with coil on plug. whose system? awesome! so what AN fitting do you have welded on the valve cover... nice COP setup.... so are you going with megasquirt EFI PRO?? :clap::blink::punk: I have been looking for a system that is flexable enough to run some different combinations of sensors. I have been looking around A LOT at different systems, prices, and functions of each. I have bought a DIS cam sensor and a crank trigger along with the coil near plug setup. Just attempting to get those to work with a system is FUN, but I think it can be done. I have been talking to Pro-M Racing a bit, and might be heading towards their new system, but am open to any sugestions. There is more to this story, and it is going to be (hopefully) COOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 so it looks like you will be going efi, with coil on plug. whose system? awesome! so what AN fitting do you have welded on the valve cover... nice COP setup.... so are you going with megasquirt EFI PRO?? :clap::blink::punk: I have been looking for a system that is flexable enough to run some different combinations of sensors. I have been looking around A LOT at different systems, prices, and functions of each. I have bought a DIS cam sensor and a crank trigger along with the coil near plug setup. Just attempting to get those to work with a system is FUN, but I think it can be done. I have been talking to Pro-M Racing a bit, and might be heading towards their new system, but am open to any sugestions. There is more to this story, and it is going to be (hopefully) COOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 The "crown jewl" of the engine bay is heading in this direction... In order to run this style of intake, the dizzy has to go away, cause it will be much cleaner and more accurate to let the computer controll timing events. My main concern with all of this is the fact I cut 1" out of the radiator support, moving the engine down and rearward an inch, and to top it all off, run a flat stock style hood. Hogan's will build anything I want, at a price of course. I have to give them accurate measurements, (custom stuf...) or run into more problems. Yes it would be easier to do an injection system off the shelf, but I am going for just a "little" more. Got to mock up the motor again, and figure out a bunch of other items before I submit my order for the intake. Ought to be different! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 The "crown jewl" of the engine bay is heading in this direction... In order to run this style of intake, the dizzy has to go away, cause it will be much cleaner and more accurate to let the computer controll timing events. My main concern with all of this is the fact I cut 1" out of the radiator support, moving the engine down and rearward an inch, and to top it all off, run a flat stock style hood. Hogan's will build anything I want, at a price of course. I have to give them accurate measurements, (custom stuf...) or run into more problems. Yes it would be easier to do an injection system off the shelf, but I am going for just a "little" more. Got to mock up the motor again, and figure out a bunch of other items before I submit my order for the intake. Ought to be different! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Wow that intake is a thing of beauty!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Wow that intake is a thing of beauty!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SM69Mach 68 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 That is SWEET! A lot of great work on this build. Great Job! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SM69Mach 68 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 That is SWEET! A lot of great work on this build. Great Job! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Holy crap! Now that intake is some serious car p0rn. Mike, are you telling me that with your high level of fab skills and your tig you can't make one that nice? Very cool indeed! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Holy crap! Now that intake is some serious car p0rn. Mike, are you telling me that with your high level of fab skills and your tig you can't make one that nice? Very cool indeed! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 whoa crap man... skills!:biggrin: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 whoa crap man... skills!:biggrin: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Holy crap! Now that intake is some serious car p0rn. Mike, are you telling me that with your high level of fab skills and your tig you can't make one that nice? Very cool indeed! Bob Thanks Bob, I have considered doing something like this. By the time I figure out a bunch of runner lengths, volume, sizing and all the other interesting trade secrets that go into making one of those, sometimes it is worth paying someone to build it. Kinda like giving Shaun a bunch of cash for the suspension, these people specialize in it, and it will work. They have done it before. I do have access to all kinds of CNC mills and lathes, and rather large TIG machines, just have to be careful of the scope of the project. One day though... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 31, 2014 Holy crap! Now that intake is some serious car p0rn. Mike, are you telling me that with your high level of fab skills and your tig you can't make one that nice? Very cool indeed! Bob Thanks Bob, I have considered doing something like this. By the time I figure out a bunch of runner lengths, volume, sizing and all the other interesting trade secrets that go into making one of those, sometimes it is worth paying someone to build it. Kinda like giving Shaun a bunch of cash for the suspension, these people specialize in it, and it will work. They have done it before. I do have access to all kinds of CNC mills and lathes, and rather large TIG machines, just have to be careful of the scope of the project. One day though... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 5, 2014 Being a little cautious this afternoon, setting up a bit of mock-up to verify some up coming issues. My main direction is to finish bracing the shock towers, and ensure I have enough clearance for my tires. I did a little measuring, figuring on the frame rail at the torque box area to be 4" +/- at ride height. Set up a few jack stands and placed a board on top with a little "camber" angle built in, just for fun. Stuck my freshly sand blasted fender in place with the tire and got it all centered. With the fender on the car for the first time since I have it all welded in place, noticed a few items that will have to be modified for all this to work. I haven't sliced the inner flange to complete my T/A drop yet, and it makes the bottom of the rocker area crash. I imagine the door wouldn't fit too well with it in stock form. Lots to do to get it to fit, but back to the bracing. With the tire at ride height, (unrolled fender lip too) there is NO room between the tire and the UCA bump stop bracket. Moving the tire like it would be when steering, hits all kinds of fender and bump stop. This is going to be "fun". The bump stop parts are not going on the car (anyone want them???) and I will be bracing directly to the shock towers instead. The tire and wheel combo will more than likely not sit in this far, so fender modifications are in order, cause I will have this size tire on the car, even if I have to do some "slight" flaring. I have drug out the suspension components for the right side of the car, for more mocking up. Guess I'll have to go mount one of these tires on a front rim as well. Lots to do... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted November 5, 2014 Ah the joys of wide tires! Even with flares, you will still be restricted by the fender body line at full suspension travel (assuming you are tucking it high like shown in your pics). Your flares may be well into the body line bend nearest the opening. Another thing to watch (I'm sure you've done this) is to turn the steering from lock to lock, and watch the tire clearance to the fender and frame rails at full lock.....with caster set. At the caster I want on my car currently with stock suspension, the 245 tire rubs the fender at full lock. It appears I will have to build in some caster into my custom tubular arms assuming I ever get to that point. Its only taken me a year to build my strut rods :lol: Joys of having young kids i guess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted November 5, 2014 yup im running 275/35-18 on all 4 corners ... turning with my TCP manual rack is fun, fun, fun... as i knew it would be... looking into EPAS now :-) on a full turn lock i rubbed the front valance and it grabbed and bent the passenger side valence at the bottom lip... and took a small bite out of the tire... but .. nothing a set of pliers couldn't handle to bend back in shape... has not grabbed since the mod.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted November 5, 2014 Yeah correction, mine grabs the upper part of the valance. Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened after I aligned the car! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted November 6, 2014 Latoracing, Not sure how you're going about the front fender mods to match the engine bay. I saw somewhere several years ago when they did the mod on the trans am car(s) they trimmed the door edge and tilted the fender down. it left a tab at the aft bottom of the fender that was then attached to the rocker panel. See my attached sketch, trimmed at the red line. I can't find the article or book that showed it. Thought I'd mention it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 6, 2014 (edited) Latoracing,Not sure how you're going about the front fender mods to match the engine bay. I saw somewhere several years ago when they did the mod on the trans am car(s) they trimmed the door edge and tilted the fender down. it left a tab at the aft bottom of the fender that was then attached to the rocker panel. See my attached sketch, trimmed at the red line. I can't find the article or book that showed it. Thought I'd mention it. Thanx Racer X. There is another method where the upper flange (vertical portion) on the fender is split from the cowl area to a little past the shock tower. This allows the fender to have a little curve to it, yet keeps the door, cowl, and all the other attachment points where they need to be, without a bunch of work. There is a thread on the T/A nose drop on this site that I sorta followed. The "slit" method seems to work quite easily. (hopefully!!) https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551 Edited November 6, 2014 by latoracing add link Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 6, 2014 Messing around with some bracing this afternoon. I went ahead and lost the stock bump stop / reinforcement in favor of running some more 1" square .120" wall tube. I have cut and semi fitted the tubes in place, as I have not finished cleaning the top portion of my shock towers. (they are DIRTY) These tubes tie directly into the other under cowl bracing leading to the A pillars. Not exactly what I was thinking about, but fairly confident the load paths are direct enough and should transfer any flex to the chassis. The bent tube and the rear tube are in the same plane. I think I will add a few gussets to help support my curvy tube, but this is about all there will be as far as tubes. The triangulation is the reason it looks like this, from the top... you can get an idea of where they are going. This is difficult to take a picture of and get a "true" view of my warped since of engineering. I am going to stick the suspension in this side, and spend some time mocking up before I go and fry these tubes in place. We'll see what crashes... :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted November 6, 2014 I like your design. Does it tie into the roll bar? Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 6, 2014 I like your design. Does it tie into the roll bar? Bob It will when I connect the A pillars to the cage. Rember all the bracing I put in the kick panel area, this bracing idea started a while back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted November 7, 2014 Got a tire mounted up this afternoon. Kinda scary watching a tire go on the rim, cringing the whole time till it was off the machine. Any way, once I got it home, I set my "stand" back up and did some looking... looks like the braces will clear, but will bolt the suspension up to confirm 100%. Had to stick the fender on the car to see how it looked with the tire all mounted up. This looks stupidly low, but the nose drop is a little deceiving. I put a scrap piece of 1" tube under the front of the fender, to put it back in the stock location... Just about "normal". Would have never thought an inch would make that much of a difference. I'm going to get the suspension stuck in place and see what else doesn't fit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
390mach1 49 Report post Posted November 7, 2014 That looks awesome. love all that tire in the front! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
