1970 Grabber Green Project

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Looking great, wish my welds looked that good.

[latoracing 256]

Thanx everyone for all the nice compliments!

 

I have been "lazy" lately, laying around in the shop, literally. I went ahead and removed the driver's side strut rod bracket after a bunch of scraping and such. Did a little prepping and some hole drilling yesterday. I was able to fry it in place this afternoon.

 

 

I put a few more welds in the replacement part (like that is something new) since there were just a few in the originals. It did make this side easy to remove though.

 

 

I started scraping the passenger side and will get it removed soon. These were not too hard to R+R, just another upside down project.

 

:punk:

[MustangBobby 28]

Wish I could weld upside down that well. Hell, I wish I could weld vertically that well. What kind of welder are you using?

[Rcodenewf 44]

Yes, your welding is amazing. I'd like to see you make a youtube video showing your welding techniques, vertical and certainly overhead.

 

I'm sure others here would certainly appreciate it as well.

 

John

[latoracing 256]

Wish I could weld upside down that well. Hell, I wish I could weld vertically that well. What kind of welder are you using?

 

Millermatic 210 running .030" wire. It is a little large for the thinner sheet metal, but is able to do structure parts as well

[Rcodenewf 44]

When you're plug welding overhead do you start from the outside edge of the hole in a circular motion moving inwards until the hole is complete?

 

And, are those 3/8 plug welds?

 

Thanks...john

[Rcodenewf 44]

When you're plug welding overhead do you start from the outside edge of the hole in a circular motion moving inwards until the hole is complete?

 

And, are those 3/8 plug welds?

 

Thanks...john

[latoracing 256]

When you're plug welding overhead do you start from the outside edge of the hole in a circular motion moving inwards until the hole is complete?

 

And, are those 3/8 plug welds?

 

Thanks...john

 

I do start on an outside edge, but usually only get about 3/4 of the way around until it is even with the surface, or just beyond. I am welding quite hot when inverted, and it only takes a second or two (literally) to fill the hole up.

 

These particular holes were drilled out to 3/8", just for more actual weld contact area with the frame rail.

 

I have welded some parts with a Lincoln 135 SP running .023" wire (110v). I have to run those poor things wide open in order to accomplish the same weld penetration inverted. It can be done, but takes a little longer, which is bad. The quicker you can fill that hole up, the less time gravity has to make your puddle drip, if that makes since.

[latoracing 256]

When you're plug welding overhead do you start from the outside edge of the hole in a circular motion moving inwards until the hole is complete?

 

And, are those 3/8 plug welds?

 

Thanks...john

 

I do start on an outside edge, but usually only get about 3/4 of the way around until it is even with the surface, or just beyond. I am welding quite hot when inverted, and it only takes a second or two (literally) to fill the hole up.

 

These particular holes were drilled out to 3/8", just for more actual weld contact area with the frame rail.

 

I have welded some parts with a Lincoln 135 SP running .023" wire (110v). I have to run those poor things wide open in order to accomplish the same weld penetration inverted. It can be done, but takes a little longer, which is bad. The quicker you can fill that hole up, the less time gravity has to make your puddle drip, if that makes since.

[Rcodenewf 44]

I do start on an outside edge, but usually only get about 3/4 of the way around until it is even with the surface, or just beyond. I am welding quite hot when inverted, and it only takes a second or two (literally) to fill the hole up.

 

These particular holes were drilled out to 3/8", just for more actual weld contact area with the frame rail.

 

I have welded some parts with a Lincoln 135 SP running .023" wire (110v). I have to run those poor things wide open in order to accomplish the same weld penetration inverted. It can be done, but takes a little longer, which is bad. The quicker you can fill that hole up, the less time gravity has to make your puddle drip, if that makes since.

 

Not quite sure I follow you on the 3/4 around the hole. Are you saying that due to the heat and the thicker wire (.030 I'm assuming) that it fills itself in rather quickly and therefore it isn't required to complete the full circumference of the hole?

 

thanks..John

[Rcodenewf 44]

I do start on an outside edge, but usually only get about 3/4 of the way around until it is even with the surface, or just beyond. I am welding quite hot when inverted, and it only takes a second or two (literally) to fill the hole up.

 

These particular holes were drilled out to 3/8", just for more actual weld contact area with the frame rail.

 

I have welded some parts with a Lincoln 135 SP running .023" wire (110v). I have to run those poor things wide open in order to accomplish the same weld penetration inverted. It can be done, but takes a little longer, which is bad. The quicker you can fill that hole up, the less time gravity has to make your puddle drip, if that makes since.

 

Not quite sure I follow you on the 3/4 around the hole. Are you saying that due to the heat and the thicker wire (.030 I'm assuming) that it fills itself in rather quickly and therefore it isn't required to complete the full circumference of the hole?

 

thanks..John

[latoracing 256]

Not quite sure I follow you on the 3/4 around the hole. Are you saying that due to the heat and the thicker wire (.030 I'm assuming) that it fills itself in rather quickly and therefore it isn't required to complete the full circumference of the hole?

 

thanks..John

 

Your assumption is correct. Very little time is spent with the trigger pulled. I wouldn't have thought .007" bigger diameter wire would make that much difference, but it does.

[latoracing 256]

Not quite sure I follow you on the 3/4 around the hole. Are you saying that due to the heat and the thicker wire (.030 I'm assuming) that it fills itself in rather quickly and therefore it isn't required to complete the full circumference of the hole?

 

thanks..John

 

Your assumption is correct. Very little time is spent with the trigger pulled. I wouldn't have thought .007" bigger diameter wire would make that much difference, but it does.

[Rcodenewf 44]

Latoracing: That's interesting. I weld with a Clarke 100EN and it's been great thus far. I've had it for years but it took some getting used to with three rocker switches for heat settings and the dial for wire speed.

 

I've never run .030 wire in it but as you stated i'll probably have to run it on the highest settings to get that big of a wire to burn well.

 

Thanks for the comeback....John

[Rcodenewf 44]

Latoracing: That's interesting. I weld with a Clarke 100EN and it's been great thus far. I've had it for years but it took some getting used to with three rocker switches for heat settings and the dial for wire speed.

 

I've never run .030 wire in it but as you stated i'll probably have to run it on the highest settings to get that big of a wire to burn well.

 

Thanks for the comeback....John

[70fastbak 16]

Ive run my millermatic 110v with .023 for my whole restoration and its worked great for me, although like yourself I do weld/fabricate for a living so that helps.

Nice work on the shock towers.

[70fastbak 16]

Ive run my millermatic 110v with .023 for my whole restoration and its worked great for me, although like yourself I do weld/fabricate for a living so that helps.

Nice work on the shock towers.

[latoracing 256]

Progress slowed down a little as of late. Still busy at work, which is a good thing. I have been able to R n R the passenger side strut brace over the past few nights. It came out fairly easy, and the frame rail looks ok for being under a battery for several decades. I fitted the new part, marked it, and drilled the rosette welding holes in their proper place.

 

 

 

Getting it back into the proper location, I used the sheet metal screw method, then clamped the brace to the car with a bunch of clamps. Cranked up the welder and got down to some metal melting.

 

 

I had welded everything on these pictures, so you can see the places welded on the upper side as well. The front turned out just as nice as the other side.

 

 

I will be moving back to the shock tower area to hopefully finish up the front end mods. Got the final pieces of the beef-ups to install. I had a few parts sandblasted, including the front fenders. Thought the driver's side would have been rough due to some obvious body work around the marker light area, it is actually quite nice. The passenger side fender needs a few patches, but should be salvageable. My passenger door will need a new bottom, not exactly what I wanted to see.

 

I do have a little "sneak" peak of some interesting things to come, and yes it is for a 351W based stroker...

 

Edited October 31, 2014 by latoracing
resize picture

[latoracing 256]

Progress slowed down a little as of late. Still busy at work, which is a good thing. I have been able to R n R the passenger side strut brace over the past few nights. It came out fairly easy, and the frame rail looks ok for being under a battery for several decades. I fitted the new part, marked it, and drilled the rosette welding holes in their proper place.

 

 

 

Getting it back into the proper location, I used the sheet metal screw method, then clamped the brace to the car with a bunch of clamps. Cranked up the welder and got down to some metal melting.

 

 

I had welded everything on these pictures, so you can see the places welded on the upper side as well. The front turned out just as nice as the other side.

 

 

I will be moving back to the shock tower area to hopefully finish up the front end mods. Got the final pieces of the beef-ups to install. I had a few parts sandblasted, including the front fenders. Thought the driver's side would have been rough due to some obvious body work around the marker light area, it is actually quite nice. The passenger side fender needs a few patches, but should be salvageable. My passenger door will need a new bottom, not exactly what I wanted to see.

 

I do have a little "sneak" peak of some interesting things to come, and yes it is for a 351W based stroker...

 

Edited October 31, 2014 by latoracing
resize picture

[RPM 1,190]

Looking real nice buddy.

 

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

Looking real nice buddy.

 

Bob

[Rodman 11]

I do have a little "sneak" peak of some interesting things to come, and yes it is for a 351W based stroker...

 

so it looks like you will be going efi, with coil on plug.

 

whose system?

 

i read awhile back you were thinking or bought unsteer rack and pinion. i had mine for 5 years now. looking forward to seeing when you get to that stage.

[Rodman 11]

I do have a little "sneak" peak of some interesting things to come, and yes it is for a 351W based stroker...

 

so it looks like you will be going efi, with coil on plug.

 

whose system?

 

i read awhile back you were thinking or bought unsteer rack and pinion. i had mine for 5 years now. looking forward to seeing when you get to that stage.

[stangme428 33]

awesome! so what AN fitting do you have welded on the valve cover... nice COP setup.... so are you going with megasquirt EFI PRO?? :clap::blink::punk:

[stangme428 33]

awesome! so what AN fitting do you have welded on the valve cover... nice COP setup.... so are you going with megasquirt EFI PRO?? :clap::blink::punk: