latoracing 256 Report post Posted August 10, 2014 Nice fab work buddy. You made me break out my tape and check the offset of the radiator support. Makes you (me anyway) wonder what Ford was thinking and why they needed to do that. Bob The battery is the reason for the offset. There are extra openings in the support, guess they wanted some airflow over it (my thinking anyway). Plus, when a big block radiator was installed, it might get real comfy with the battery area. They be some smart folk up there in Detroit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted August 16, 2014 The dreaded silly season is getting geared up at work, I have no time to play. I bet I do not have 3 hours on my car this week, such is life. I ordered a Unisteer RnP from Mr. Shawn over at Street or Track along with a 1.125" sway bar. I went power upon his recommendation and since I want to run a 275 section front tire. I have a few more items to get for front end mock up, once the apron mods are all accomplished. I want to build me some 4 into 2 into 1 stainless steel headers, and need all this stuff in place to build them around. Always wanted to do a high end set, all TIG purge welded and such, but that's a little ways off I did chop up the upper fender attachment area and get it cleaned up. I cleaned the underside and a little around the weld area, tacked it all up, and welded it in place. I have more grinding to do, along with the apron extension left to install. I have a few more forms to make, along with some tooling to use on them. The driver's side ought to be a breeze compared to the pass. side. I really like the battery-less apron, it is going to confuse a bunch of people. More to come... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted August 22, 2014 Have been able to actually get a few things done lately. I made a hammer form for my beaded areas the other afternoon out of more MDF, yuck. I hate working with wood, it burns when you try to weld it, smelly, dusty, yuck... anyway I made a pattern out of my driver's side apron by drilling some small holes in the middle of the beads and 1/4" from each end. I then transferred these small holes to my counter top and marked the areas for the next step, more wood work. I borrowed my buddy's router in order to do this, and got busy making a mess. This stuff does not route well at all, stupid glued together wood junk, yuck. (can you tell I Hate wood?) Once done, thank goodness, it looks like... I picked up one of the holes I had made in my panel towards the top, and drilled a new one at the bottom. Secured it to the MDF with some 1/4-20 bolts along with a helping hand from a couple of clamps, and got to take out some aggression from the past few days at work. I used my "stump" (more wood, great for heating the house) and a little tool I made just for this job. Turned a piece of 1018 into a handle, and made a forming tip out of some UHMW. Shaped it to the radius needed and got to beating. After an hour or so, it turned out semi decent. I almost ordered a bead roller at lunch today, but decided to at least attempt this method. A bunch of work, but way cheaper. After removing the part from the form it had to be flattened out a little, and a few touch ups on the bench. Before I quit for the evening, I went ahead and marked the hole locations on the upper flange so I might be able to keep this going. Still have a few flanges and a bunch of trimming to do, just a little more work, then the other side... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 22, 2014 Again, very nice work. Are you getting tired of all the compliments yet? Who needs a bead roller when you have skills like you? Plus you can brag that it was hand formed. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted August 23, 2014 Again, very nice work. Are you getting tired of all the compliments yet? Who needs a bead roller when you have skills like you? Plus you can brag that it was hand formed. Bob I do appreciate all the compliments, it does make sharing all this info so much more enjoyable. I'll have to keep an eye on my welding helmet head gear adjustment, just to make sure all this is not going to my head. LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted August 25, 2014 Made some holes in the upper portion of this apron this afternoon. I chain drilled out the holes, and filed them to the scribed lines. I didn't cut out the larger rectangle area just yet. Forming the outer flange with that big of a hole would be difficult, so it will get cut out afterwards. I also made a tool or two to mimic the original part just a little more. I made a joggling tool to give the front of the panel the right offset to the radiator support. It is made out of .120" CRS with a .250" slot, fairly close to the stock stamping. The tool has a "leg" that is longer than the other in order to move the entire area, including the flanged area down. I had to hammer form this in place since it would not fit in the press or vice. I used vise grips to hold it to the panel and formed it on a chunk of treated 2 x 10 (more wood). I am also making a stamp to put the "appropriate" recess in the other two bolt hole areas, so the j nuts will have a pleasant place to reside. My parts had surface rust on them from the high humidity the past couple of days, got to keep that from growing, stupid rust. More metal manipulation to come... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted August 27, 2014 Here is a fun after work project that you can do at home with a cordless drill, a file, and a hammer. Just make a "die" out of some scrap .250" flat bar, and you too can have your very own J nut area stamp. I really did make this with a cordless, and a 1/8" drill bit. I had made the punch yesterday so there wasn't much to make when I got home today. My punch is 1.25" x 1.5" made out of some .375" CRS and attached to some 1" 304 SS round bar. I made the die portion .125" larger in both directions, after a little bit of filing and marking (Sharpie guided tools here) and clamped the die in place with some 11R Vicegrips. Back on my trusty stump, using a BFH made short work of the task. Just a couple of hits with that beast, and the area was recessed just enough. The Sharpie marks make the areas look a little deeper than they are. The stamping works great, as long as the tools are nice and smooth, the lines turn out straight and crisp. I went ahead and trimmed in the panel a little, preparing for some flanging. I broke out one of my favorite sheet metal tools (adjustable wrench) to make the compound curve on the outside of the panel easier to accomplish. I trimmed the flange area to 3/8" to make it some what easier to form. You have to be careful when forming this type of flange. See how the left side is going in the wrong direction, it can happen quite quickly. I was able to get it to go back the other way with a little persuasion. It is all bent and trimmed to 1/4". A few more flanges, a large rectangle hole to make, along with a couple more small touches, and this might just be ready to install. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 27, 2014 Man, this is better than trade school! I didn't know you were a tool and die maker, nice stuff Mike. I have a full set of those flange bending tools, sae and metric. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted August 27, 2014 Bent the flanges and stuck it in place for it's first trial fit. not too bad, still needs a couple of adjustments, and a few more tweaks. Still need to punch the rectangle hole in the top flange. Yea!!!!!! It Worked!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted August 29, 2014 Added a small detail to the lower front, along with the general welding cleanup. Also finished the hole in the upper flange. All that is left on this part is to punch the attachment areas, prep, and weld it in place. Guess I'll build the other side and get it fitted, then have a bunch to weld on all at once. One down, one to go... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnet4jt 10 Report post Posted August 29, 2014 I love this thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted September 3, 2014 Driver's side apron, Made a little modification to the contour block to incorporate a little relief for the future joggle placement. Typical fab stuff, just opposite of the first one, and similar to the stock panel. Bunch of cutting, fitting, and measuring, time to do some welding. I went ahead and included the little accent part, (sounds appropriate) while I was laying this out. Tacked it all up and welded it together. Get to put it on the bead block and hammer away for a couple of hours, hope it cools off a bit, 90's is kinda sticky when you're "black-smithing" some sheet metal. Least all the forms are done, no wood work this time!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted September 12, 2014 Not a lot of time to play, "silly season" is in effect, along with some other "fun" issues. I started on the beaded areas and have them roughed in After a little off block touch-ups, I'll be ready to cut holes and continue with the panel manufacturing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted September 12, 2014 I assume you don't have a bead roller? Nice work so far! Following your build with interest and jealousy of your skills :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted September 12, 2014 I assume you don't have a bead roller? Nice work so far! Following your build with interest and jealousy of your skills :) Thought about getting one, but I am too cheap. I have a huge list of machines that I would like to buy, it just delays the funds I have to put into this project. Been pricing English Wheels as of lately though... (future needs). Thanx for the compliments :) :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted September 17, 2014 Driver's side panel is just about complete. I still have some minor trimming to do along with a bunch of grinding, which will not be too bad. If I had a decent Saturday, guessing around 6 hours, I probably could have had this part built. But who is counting? Went to go stick it into it's soon to be position... DUHHHHH... it doesn't fit too well when I haven't modified the rest of the car. I was having one of "those" moments when I realized the issue. Guess I'll have to break out the cutoff wheel, hopefully soon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted September 20, 2014 (edited) Went to the Autorama at Lowes Motor Speedway in Charlotte this morning to go look for some tools and possibly parts. Didn't come home with either. Quite a few '69 decent looking fenders and hoods there, should have bought a few, oh well. Got home and broke out the sander and grinders to get this panel looking like it is supposed to. I also went ahead and fixed the rest of the upper flange by removing the wedge that I had marked way back when. Got it prepped, then welded it back on the car. Refitted the freshly sanded panel for a second time, which looks much better It is starting to look like a car body again. This has been a fun mod to do, I'm glad I went there. Just need to do some marking and punching. This front end will be ready to install. I want to get the crunchiness all cleaned up, along with some shock tower bracing done before I final attach my slightly modified front end. Looks like it will be much easier to reach the towers without the front end on. Now I gotta get me some 3/16" plate, wire brushes... more beef-ups to come. :punk: Edited September 25, 2014 by latoracing Stupid Computer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted September 25, 2014 Been making some templates for my shock tower beef-ups. There is no way in this world I would pay $200.00 for a kit to reinforce these towers. I have made the Boss / TA style plates for the lower tower to frame rail brace. I spent a little while this afternoon making the engine bay side templates, now I just need to transfer them to some metal. The 3/16" wrap around parts will be fun to form, got some material to do those with as well. The towers will need to be cleaned up along with some initial welding before these plates can be installed. I am not going to go extremely crazy with the plates n' such, but I am going to tie the upper outer towers back into the cowl, bent some tube for that today as well. This thing is getting heavy with all the extra steel, should be worth while though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 4, 2014 Haven't had much time to spend on this thing in the past week or so, but have had a hour here and there to get parts made. I was able to get the inner shock tower beef up plates installed today though. I welded up the base of the shock towers the other afternoon, and applied some POR-15 to the parts that will be covered by the reinforcement plates. All the plates that I have made, as of lately, are out of 11ga CRS and are quite simple to do. Make a template, transfer to metal and cut it out. Tack in place... fry in place... I was surprised at how easy the shock tower metal could be blown away, thought it was tougher. Had to adjust my speed a little, I defiantly had good weld penetration on all the welds I have plates made for the engine side as well. I want to put some shims in place before installing them. Don't see how they will help when having to "jump" a section that isn't touching anything. I still have to fab the 3/16" rap arounds for the big block style shock tower "look". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 16, 2014 Spent several afternoons cutting out all these parts and getting them fit. I prepped the towers by shimming the various places, and tacked the plates in place. I seam welded everything so it might be a little stronger. I have to re-drill my UCA bolt holes, but it will be fairly easy. I want to leave all these welds, except for the deleted holes. I am used to grinding all my welds, cause some people (like my boss) don't like to see them. I had to massage the towers just a little for my 3/16" big block wraps to sit just right. A few tacks to hold them in place. I made the wraps to where they could incorporate a little triangle on the bottom. I have some more welding to do... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted October 16, 2014 Very nice job as usual Mike. Not much nicer to look at imho than a proper weld bead. Screw the boss! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 16, 2014 Thanx Bob, not like I don't get any practice. I welded most of the day today, then came home and welded some more. I didn't have too much left, just awkward positions to get in while welding the bottom areas, but all is fried and cleaned up... All I have left is to drill the UCA holes and more cleaning. The bend radius I used for my 3/16" plate was a little bit on the tight side, but it matched the inside factory bend, so I went with it. Guess I need to get on with the rest of the parts install, I have some more shock tower bracing to do on the outside, like they need any more after this... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted October 19, 2014 Started out the day looking at the poor thing, sitting there with no front end. I wanted to make it look a little better by installing some more parts back on it. After I finished the yard work, it went from this... to this... all in one afternoon. I have a bunch of welds to grind down, but everything is welded in place. All except for the strut rod brackets, they are fixin' to hit the scrap pile. The driver's side is toast, with a sizable portion missing at the top forward attachment point. I have the new ones sitting, just waiting to join the "several" other Dynacorn parts on this car. Everything went fairly smooth, just a few little tweaks, and some trimming. Oh yea, the 100 or so holes I had to punch in most of the parts. Guess my hauling butt mode from my work week carried over, not overly fast, just steady. :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snookman35 10 Report post Posted October 19, 2014 As always Just Awesome Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted October 19, 2014 VERY nice welding work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
