buening 63 Report post Posted May 15, 2013 Overachiever! :lol: Kidding of course. Those things look sweet man. Good thinking on threading the plates. Just remember the locktite, as you don't want those bolts rattling loose ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted May 15, 2013 Yea, that would be bad. I could also use a nylock nut on the bottom once it is set in place, sorta double nut. Your PDF files converted work great, Thanks for the drawings! 1 Silver-Fox reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 16, 2013 Glad you could use them! Another thought would be to tack weld the nylock nuts on the underside of the bracket. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted May 24, 2013 The drive train mock up is complete! Took long enough. I finaly put together a trans mount that I can live with. After attempting several different materials, I setteled on some 1" x 3" x .125" tube, with parts from a previous attempt, and came up with this I kinda didn't like the center slots, but it works. When I milled the slots in the formed center, I figured it for a 3/8" end mill, and used a 1/2" end mill. The result was being off 1/8", so I have 5/8" slots. Anyway, taked it all up on the car, removed, and TIGed all of it, which was fun, and HOT. My final drive line angle came up to 2.5 deg., which I am very happy with. Once I cleaned up the trans mount, and let it cool off, I crossed my fingers and put it back in the car, it fit, wheeeew! I took a couple of pics of the installed mounts, its all good to go Next up, suspension mock up so I can get some wheels on order. I really want to finish my inner rocker / torque box, floor pan install, but I guess I can get side tracked for just a little while longer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prayers1 153 Report post Posted May 24, 2013 You have a talent, you were determined and obviously your work is impressive! Maybe you should put a package together, patent and sell. It seems this is a going trend in transmission swaps and since the average guy is having a hard time finding the right parts. Looking forward to the rest of your build. By the way, good photos, it really helps explaining the process. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted May 25, 2013 You have a talent, you were determined and obviously your work is impressive! Maybe you should put a package together, patent and sell. It seems this is a going trend in transmission swaps and since the average guy is having a hard time finding the right parts. Looking forward to the rest of your build. By the way, good photos, it really helps explaining the process. +1 I would buy the kit. BTW nice work.:yes: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted May 28, 2013 Started my suspension mock up today. I removed my drive line stuff first thing so the front suspension would be easier to get to, when I get there. I have been scraping under coating most of the day in order to get these parts in the correct place. I needed to install the LCA mounts in their proper location (yes, I actually read the instructions) and got them fried in place. Makes it quite easy with no floor in the way. Next up was the 3-link mount, but before it could go in, more scraping and the removal of the pinion snubber mount. It gets all in the way of things, and was so much fun to remove. I went ahead and bolted the support in place, as I need to remove all this stuff so the under side of the car can get painted with out screwing up the pretty powder coating. I might weld this mount in place when it is time for final assembly. I reinstalled the wats link frame, it fell right into place as I have had this in the car before. I removed the springs off of my coil overs, so I could check the full suspension movement with the tires on the axle. Fixing to hang the rear end for the first time, and could not find the 3-link upper link. Tore all my boxes open again, no where to be found. I went back to my pics that I used for an inventory of sorts when I received them, no link. Well, guess I'll have to get one shipped out this week. Put all my tools up, and got back to scraping. Need to scrape a shock tower for the front suspension mock up... :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted May 31, 2013 I received my third link from the Fed-Up guy today, and had some fun playing with some nice new parts. It didn't take to long to get all this stuff under the rear of my car, it is BAD!!! My stupid halogen light puked again, so my pics might not be that bright, sorry, I'll get something that will work. It all went together without any drama, except for some powder coating that needed to be removed from a couple of holes. It is all loosely bolted in the car for now. I am planning on measuring for some wheels now that this is in it's place. The view from the rear is cool, just wish it would have shown up better. There is a lot going on under there.. Looks like a bunch of black spaghetti, I like it! I removed the coil springs off the shocks so I can see if things will hit once there is a simulated tire and rim on the studs. I know for shure the 3-link mount will crash the sail panel at the top, the kit comes with a patch of sorts to raise this area, I just didn't do it yet, to much excitement. Removing the springs will make it easier to move the housing around, and put it in crossed up positions, kinda like coming out of a steep drive way at an angle. Don't want to buy custom rims and find out they hit stuff, that would be bad. Next up, front suspension mock up! :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 1, 2013 More mocking up of suspension components to day. After drilling all the required holes for the UCA drop, (I did both sides of the car, so I didn't have to drag all that stuff out again) along with the holes that had to be drilled in the upper shock tower, I got to play with my "clean" toys. I did scrape a bunch of under coating off of this area before putting all the parts on, still looks crunchy though. Once again, it went together with out a hitch, no problems at all. The spindle was scrapped, wire brushed, and sprayed with some brake cleaner, just so it wasn't an old greasy mess. I'm gona bead blast them, and powder coat the exposed areas later on. The hubs, rotors and calipers were stuck on next. All the bolts are hand tight, except for some. Like the rear, I removed the spring so the suspension could be cycled, sort of, just to see if things would hit, and the ride height could be messed with while on jack stands. I don't know which I like better, the front system, or the rear. Both are sexy on their own, but just something about the hubs on the rear that make it :drool: I can't grind again, so I hope I can get to some wheel measuring soon! I might go ahead and work on my torque box area, and try not to get a bunch of rust dust all over this pretty stuff, we'll see... :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ak70stang 11 Report post Posted June 1, 2013 Pretty nice looking system you got there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 2, 2013 Hey latoracing, I really enjoy checking your progress. Very nice work indeed. In your post #183 you say "I know for shure the 3- link mount will crash the sail panel at the top..." I can't figure out what that means. When you say sail panel, are you referring to the body panel where the roof and quarter panel meet? I know, I know, I'm a bit slow :) Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 2, 2013 I had a "to go by" pic. sent from Shaun to show the modifications to the area between the original shock mount, and the gas tank area, and I don't know what happened to it. The tabs, along with the 3-link on top of the housing stick up about 2" above the pumpkin area. If the suspension travels up to the bump stops, this attachment point will come in heavy contact with the sheet metal. The earlier cars (65-68) do not have this problem, something about the wheel well openings on the 69-70 cars are a bit higher, so the cars actually have to sit lower to get the right stance. A sheet metal dog house part is supplied with the system to give clearance to this interference. It gives a inch or so more space so nothing will crash while driving. For those of you who do not want to cut up your car, this might be the nail in the coffin for this system. Yes, it can be undone, and it will be seen when the trunk is opened, unless concealed with a mat or some other means. I will show the installation once I get done with my wheel measuring. You're not slow Bob, my terminology might be a little off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 3, 2013 Ok, that makes sense, I get it now. I think there are 3 different names that can be used for every part on the car. Thanks. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaun 10 Report post Posted June 3, 2013 Mike, Looking good! DO NOT weld in the 3rd link frame. You need to remove it to service the bearing... Here is a shot of the trunk aperture required to run a 69-70 car really low: Its behind the rear seats and allows room for the 3rd Link to achieve full travel under full compression. ONLY 69-70 cars require this modification. Those cars wheel arch openings are 1-3/4" higher than 65-68 cars so they need to be run lower to look correct and not like an SUV. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted June 3, 2013 Did Shaun change shock types? I'm used to seeing the black Bilstein SN shock end caps: I wonder if he went to the SNS with the steel end cap instead? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 3, 2013 (edited) Did Shaun change shock types? I'm used to seeing the black Bilstein SN shock end caps: I wonder if he went to the SNS with the steel end cap instead? My Bilsteins are the same, minus the valve and the black paint at the end. The threaded spring sleeve is off of mine, and they are bare alum. Looks a little different but still Bilstein. Edited June 3, 2013 by latoracing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 3, 2013 Mike, DO NOT weld in the 3rd link frame. You need to remove it to service the bearing... . That would be bad come to think of it! That bolt would be sorta hard to get out of the tunnel without having to cut a hole in it for access. That is why I followed the directions for the mock up, it is nice to have input from the OEM of the product, thanks for watching out for me! :sweatdrop: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted June 3, 2013 My Bilsteins are the same, minus the valve and the black paint at the end. The threaded spring sleeve is off of mine, and they are bare alum. Looks a little different but still Bilstein. Nah I was talking about the end cap, the part that has the mounting eyelet. Yours isn't black, but rather appears to be zinc steel. See attached pic with area I'm talking about circled. The SN and SNS shocks are identical, its just the black SN has an aluminum end cap and the SNS has a steel end cap (Saturday Night vs Saturday Night Steel is what they stand for). Below is the SN with black aluminum end cap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaun 10 Report post Posted June 3, 2013 Did Shaun change shock types? I'm used to seeing the black Bilstein SN shock end caps: I wonder if he went to the SNS with the steel end cap instead? No changes. If you want the Schrader, you get the shock with the black end, if not then you get a shock without it. All the internal components are the same. On 69-70 cars running the 3-Link you get the black ended shocks with the Schrader hole plugged unless you want the valve. Having the Schrader valve allows you to adjust the Nitrogen pressure beneath the dividing piston. Problem is it bleeds off just like a Schrader valve on a bike tire so you need a tank of Nitrogen and a gauge to maintain it. Usually only race car guys are interested in messing with it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 8, 2013 Been measuring for wheels off and on all week. The front is fairly straight forward, based on a stock fender opening, and a stock 4.75" BS is all you will get, unless you go extreme like 20" rims, then you'll crash all kinds of stuff. Fit a 275-35-18 on a 9.5" rim up front, with a fender lip roll, and a little nudge, it will clear, along with an adjustable front suspension, it will be COOL! The rear scared me. The lower shock eye came into HARD contact with my original plan of 7.75" BS. Long story short, 7" BS will clear on a 18" rim with a 1/4" of clearance. The next obstacle would be the LCA at 8.25", 9.5" to the Wats link mount, in other words, a bunch of room on the inside for all kinds of movement, even with my 335 section tire. All these measurements are taken from the wheel mounting surface, to the component. I thought about going 19", they don't make a 335 section tire for that diameter wheel, 325, or 345. Price of a 345 19, we'll just say not a good tire to take to the track. Here is what I am fixin' to order... 18" x 9.5" with a 4.75" BS front, running a 275-35-18 18" x 12" with a 7" BS rear, running a 335-30-18 Oh yea, the rear end is stock width, in case you were wondering, and didn't have to go looking at older posts to find it. Going to put all this pretty stuff back in the boxes, so I can get back to work on making this thing solid again. :punk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted June 8, 2013 Wow that setup will be sweet! Out of curiosity, do you have front fender flares? The reason I ask is because I have 17x8/245 tires with 4.75" backspace iirc and I had to roll the fender lips. Can't imagine an extra 1.5" wheel width. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 9, 2013 The key to fitting a 9.5" wheel is the adjustable upper along with the adjustment on the lower control arm, shorten the upper a little, and correct the camber with the eccentric, along with some time with the fender lip and a hammer, ought to be fun! If not, then some sort of minor modifications to the fender will be necessary, but 275's will be on the front. Wish I could run 10" and a 285, but I'm getting greedy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted June 9, 2013 Good stuff. Make sure you have the front valance installed while checking for fitment. Rubbing tends to occur at full lock ;). The shortened arms may reduce this possibility. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted June 9, 2013 No worries with the front valance, going to make a splitter for the front, and loose the bumper in the process. A little ways off, but had to have wheels to ensure everything clears. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted June 9, 2013 No worries with the front valance, going to make a splitter for the front, and loose the bumper in the process. A little ways off, but had to have wheels to ensure everything clears. ohhhhh nice.. cant wait to see how this turns out!! great work btw! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
