1970 Grabber Green Project

[maxum96 32]

Out with the old, and in with the new. I usually don't have to work on Fridays, but today was an exception. I got home to get back to work on fun things, instead of the regular day to day welding. (I do like what I do, just burned out on this week). I went ahead and measured, marked, and removed the trap door structure, which was not hard. This car must have rattled something awful going down the road. The attachment points on the foward trunk floor, to the trap door, were both broken. Most of the welds on the flanges, to the inner wheel house were also broken. Made it quite simple to remove. While it was out, I ground down the welds on the right side trunk floor, which turned out nice. The replacement fell right into place, clamped, measured (my tape is almost worn out) and temp. fastened it in.

The sparks will be flying in the morning! There is a bunch of stuff preped, and ready to install. I'll be shure to snap some more pics. as things progress.

 

:punk:

 

 

The bozo working my car for the previous owner hacked the sides of mine all up. Did you get a new repro? Or did you get one out of a parts car?

Edited August 25, 2012 by maxum96

[latoracing 256]

This is a new part directly forom Dynacorn. It was around $250ish, not exactly cheep, but the part under the lower rear window pannel was what I needed. It was alot easier to replace all of it at. Here is a link if you would like to chek it out

http://dynacorndepot.com/MustangSearchResult.aspx

[maxum96 32]

This is a new part directly forom Dynacorn. It was around $250ish, not exactly cheep, but the part under the lower rear window pannel was what I needed. It was alot easier to replace all of it at. Here is a link if you would like to chek it out

http://dynacorndepot.com/MustangSearchResult.aspx

 

Thanks. But the link doesn't list the part. What does Dynacorn call the part?

[latoracing 256]

I checked it before I attached it, oh well. The part name is Rear Seat/Trap Door Pannel Part Number: 3661G See if that works.

[maxum96 32]

I checked it before I attached it, oh well. The part name is Rear Seat/Trap Door Pannel Part Number: 3661G See if that works.

 

 

Thanks for the info!

[Klutch 17]

I ordered the same part from Mustangs Unlimited. They carry the Dynacorn version:

 

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=DA240+01

 

MU didn't have it in stock. But it took only several days for it to show up at my door.

[latoracing 256]

I didn't get as much done this weekend as I had hoped. I spent most of the day Saturday on the lake, Bass fishin'. I needed a break... Anyway, I did work on my B pillar a little. I went ahead and preped the areas that I am going to patch, removing the old rusty reinforcement on the back side, and a small area on the front. I made the filler part on the front over sized so I can trim it to fit, since it is a tapered part. The inside is a little bit more complicated. I really don't have a whole lot of time in making this, actually I only have about 2 hours in it to this point. I did make it out of some scrap 16ga Hot rolled steel I had laying around the shop. A little bit thick, since the stock part was 20ga. I thought it would end up being a practice part, but it will work as the final part. I trimmed the lower section to fit, fired up the TIG welder and ran the seams. I wanted to be able to have very little clean up, so I welded them to acchieve 100% penetration. The welds turned out nice, after using a rotary file to blend them in. I know that this will never be seen once the car is back together, but I know that it was done right. Now all that is left, is to trim and weld it into place. Hopefully I'll be able to continue with the quarter next week.

[latoracing 256]

A hour here, 30 min. there... slow progress. Patched the worst part of the B pillar, still a little crunchy though. Trimmed the repair patch to fit the hole I made, then welded it into place. A little grinding, sanding... Bondo, we don't need no stinking Bondo! Na, this thing will be skim coated from one end to the other when it is time for paint. Inner repair is ready to install, once all the rust stoppers are cured, it is next on the after work schedule...

[latoracing 256]

After work schedule part II... stuck the preped inner B pillar repair into place, scraped off some paint for the spot welds, bla bla bla, Done! I think that it should work, even though no one will ever see it, on to quarter pannel fitting.

[latoracing 256]

Quarter pannel fitment went quite well this afternoon. Still like the way this Dynacorn replacement parts work, not OEM, but sorta close. There are a few areas that will have to be worked on. The attachment flange for the top of the pannel to the B pillar is not there, and it is not the correct angle, so there is a large gap at the top of the door, I'm being picky. Oh, and talk about being picky, I hate when things are not in line with each other. Like the way the flanges are in the "to be trimmed" state on alot of these parts, they drive me nuts when installed without being trimmed. I know, I'm being anal, but I look at this on other cars, it is not concorus correct to do this, but I trim EVERY tab that can be seen. An example of this is the quarter to tail light filler, I had to highlight the area so it would show up in the pic. Yes it is behind the extinsion, and there agean, no one will see it, but I can while I'm working on it. My wheel opening is low by about 3/8" and in about 1/4", gona have to do a little pushing with the porta power to fix this one. The wheel house measured right, but the quarter pannel is off just a little, and when it is all clamped up, it goes down. No problem. Still a bunch of small details to work out, will continue on Monday.

 

:hammer:

[latoracing 256]

This was quite the day. It probably doesn't look like I've done a thing, but oh boy, I'm pooped. When the entire rear of the car is missing, fitting as many parts as possible is the only way to go about rebuilding it. I had to remove the quarter to find out why my filler pannel would not line up. The pic with the arows is the reason, a little trimming, and all is well. The front of the quarter is all but ready for some drilling and welding, but the tail light pannel, and the actual fit between the quarter and the trunk drop are still in need of some final tweeking. I am going to leave all these components in the screwed together condition untill the drivers side has it's trunk floor, and wheel tubs installed. That way the driver's side quarter can be temp attached and Everything checked for alignment before it is permantly stuck together. The quarter extension and the tail light housing fit fairly well, the attachment holes for the extension are in need of a little enlarging, but for now, it will do. Just a little more fitting, and the tail light pannel will come back off for the removal of the driver's side trunk floor.

Gotta fix my driver's side door before I get to a head of myself.

Edited September 4, 2012 by latoracing

[Mike65 475]

Nice work, I too am in the test fit stage also. Alot of work but I want it to look good before welding it up.

[latoracing 256]

Made a repair "patch" for my driver's side door. I cut a chunk out of the door in order to get it bent to the correct shape. I used some scrap to make shure the brake was set-up to get the correct radi on each bend. (3 to be exact) There are some places that will be interesting to replicate. The raised areas where the window guides bolt to on the bottom of the door is one of those areas. I'm into this repair $0.00 so far, if it doesn't work, oh well. Still need to throw the shell in the blaster and get it cleaned up. This will take some time, I'll show as much as possible, unless I get to involved...

[latoracing 256]

The inner part of my door was a little much for the shop parts blaster, so I took it down the road to a local sand blasting shop. He made short work of the rust and old paint (mostly rust) in only a few minutes. It would have taken the better part of a couple of hours with the parts blaster. $20.00 is money well spent on this job. Now to get it all fixed up.

[Klutch 17]

Nice!

 

My doors have some rust. I was debating whether to try fixing them or just pony up for re-pops. I think you've inspired me to at least try fixing my doors.

 

Looking forward to seeing your progress on those doors as well as the rest of your project.

[Mike65 475]

 

Her are 2 pics of my r/s door after removing the skin & rustproofing the inside & after replacing the skin.

[stangme428 33]

looking good!!!:biggrin:

[latoracing 256]

Spent a couple of hours working on my door, mainly making the small parts in order to make shure it will go back together. I am doing this as a peice together type repair, these parts could be made with some elaborate "bumping" blocks, or better yet, a drop hammer die, but I don't feel the need to build either. I am using simple hand tools to make the small parts, nothing fancy, just some avation snips, a "T" dolly I made out of 1" round steel bar, some template material, a hammer, and a welder. I use the template material to wrap around the part I want to make, trim it to where I want to trim the door, and transfer it to flat steel. Cut out the patch, form either by hand, or with duck bill vice grips (sometimes easier than a box and pan brake). These parts were done by either, and it isn't that hard. I wanted the parts to have the radius of the origonal, so I allowed enough material to be formed on my repair part. A little LIGHT taps with the hammer, and you have a part! I cut out the rotton materia on my door, and will trim both peices to fit, tack in place, and go onto the next small part. I am going to have to tweek my long patch, the door is tapered, and I made the long part straight, oh well. I'll show more as I go along.

This will make all the wrinkles on the door disapear, you could put them back in if you were really anal, but this one will be slick, it is on the lower part of the door, I won't miss them.

 

:punk:

[Klutch 17]

Hey, nice patch!

[latoracing 256]

Can't believe it has been a month since I have posted anything. Could be the fact that I haven't done anything to the poor thing in a while. Between two fishing trips to the coast (which were great!) I built a pier / beach buggy for my Father In Law, which took up all my spare time, and a bunch of Argon and spare alum. tubing I had in stock. But, back to the door.

I went ahead and remade the bottom of the door patch due to the fact I didn't pay attention to the door being tapered on the bottom. I started marking areas to trim, and place all the small parts that I made. I also marked the area for the main patch to butt weld to. I sheared the main patch at work so it would be nice and straight, and the door might have a better chance of looking good when it is all done. Still have a bunch of small parts to make, along with the weather strip channel on the bottom. Gota bunch to do, this needs to be done in order to get it back on the car to help align the left side quarter, one thing at a time...

[latoracing 256]

Wanted to show a little on how some of these parts are made. I wanted to get the area where the window guide bolts to the bottom of the door made, so it can be located a little later. I made a template and transfered it to the sheet metal. I wanted to put a little dimple on the part so the bolt head would sit flush with the bottom of the door. I used a 12mm socket, and a piece of 3/4" sch. 80 pipe in my press and lightly dimpled it. A little folding, and hammering, and it is just about ready to weld up. The foward rolled corner is next to get the fab treatment. Same thing applies to this part as well, except this one can be screwed to the inner brace, just to make double shure it will work. I tried to do a compound curve (all of it at once) but that won't work. It will be done in two parts. Once the part is trimmed a little large, it can be fitted and beat in to submission. I liked the way it was fitting, so I half way rolled the edges on the "T" dolly so I don't grind all the metal away after it is all welded up. It is a big jig saw puzzle right now, maby it will be in one piece agean. More tommrow...

[latoracing 256]

Ok, I don't know if any one is excited or not about this, but this turned out cool! Not to be long winded on this subject, but I thought someone might try something new, this is a first for me with this repair.

I chain drilled the marked locations for the small parts, removed the material, and installed them in the repair. There was a whole lot o' trimming and fitting to be done to pull this thing back together. Cutting the crunchy stuff off was sorta scary, but when all was trimmed, and tacked into place, I'm very happy with the results. I will finish installing the other small parts, and get everything welded up!

:punk:

[latoracing 256]

All most forgot to fix the bracket for the window stop. The entire bottom of the bracket was missing, even where it was attached was gone. I haven't paid that much attention to these brackets in the past, so I looked at my shop welding placement book to get an idea on the shape of it. A couple of mesurements, and a couple of hours, and the results are on the right side of the pic. TIG welding has to be the most relaxing thing to do when no one is pushing you to get a part out (production welding can be fun). 20ga CRS is sorta thin, so I used several pieces of .030" MIG wire as filler rod. Jumping around a bunch, a little grinding, and some primer, on to the next part. I have been slow the past month, to many other projects. I'll get there one day...hopefully.

[latoracing 256]

Tack, tack, tack.........

 

:hammer:

[latoracing 256]

I worked a little each day this week on getting this repair welded in. It takes quite some time to put a single tack in various places, over and over, untill all the seams are joined together. I jumped around alot so the door would remain flat (its not perfect, but I'm happy with it) I braced it with a peice of 1.5" square tube and left it there untill all the welds were ground down. I have over 20hrs in this repair now, and $20.00 in sand blasting. My time is cheep, since it is for me! It has been fun to rescue this part from the scrap heap. I do have some more areas to fix before the skin can go on, but for now, it is back in one piece!!