Question on power mirrors mod

[buening 63]

From what I recall, my spare that turned to junk was a 71 mirror and I'm not sure if I still have it (may have thrown it away). I think the internals are the same but the housings are different. The other one I had is on my car, with the adjuster knob hole stripped and knobless.

[miketyler 15]

Picked up a nice set of 69 mirrors yesterday for $50! Am ready to proceed with this mod now knowing if I F* this up, I can go back. Have been preoccuipied with major home improvement project and will be nice to work on the car again

[miketyler 15]

I took the late model Mustang mirrors apart and am fabricating mount for the servos. Am nearly done with the drivers side.

 

I removed the mirror glass from the plastic backing plate on the late model stang and was expecting to see standard type mirror with silver mirror coating on backside. However, it actually uses what appears to be something like a 2 way mirror. It's mirrored on both sides but is transparent if you look thru it close up. I thought that was interesting. Thinking on having these cut down to work on the car.

Edited July 17, 2012 by miketyler

[MustangChuck 16]

Cool. I've been preoccupied with life in general. In the last six weeks, I think I've spent a total of 10 minutes actually working on the car. And those came yesterday.

 

I was going to make a template of the 69's mirror and take the SN95 glass to a glass shop to have them cut them down. I was going to make the template just a little wider because there is a lot of wasted space on each side of the current 69 mirror glass.

 

And, nice score on a set of mirrors for only $50!

 

Post pics when you get it done.

 

Chuck

[Crazyhorse 21]

The only downside is that the plug will have to be snipped off and reattached after the wire is fed through the hole. It is too large to fit and too large to expand the existing hole.

M/C

 

Before you cut the plug, almost all of the ford plugs from that generation are able to be disassembled. look at the end of the plug housing, there should be a red or black piece in the middle, pull it out with a pick, then you can release the individual tabs that retain the leads into the housing in order to fish them into place.

[miketyler 15]

I saw the little clip but after unlatching still couldnt get the leads out. I didnt have the other matching plug anyway, figured I would get another type connector.

 

I did get lucky on that pair but got even luckier when I guy responded to my ad with a drivers side housing and pedestel. The mech and mirror had already been removed so I will probably use that one. Problem is, someone cut a 1/4 slice out of the pedestel apparently to remove the cable assembly.

 

For anyone trying to disassemble one, I removed the mirror glass and there you can see where each cable is crimped.

[MustangChuck 16]

So, if you can remove the crimp top, you should be able to slide the three cables out through the base without having to cut anything. Have you tried to open them up yet?

 

Since they are small, you might be able to just cut them off. If you want to reassemble them, you've only lost what looks like 1/4" of cable. My cable seems to have a lot of slack, so loosing 1/4" won't be noticeable.

 

How difficult was it to remove the glass?

 

Chuck

[miketyler 15]

The drivers side unit I got from the 2nd guy was the housing only so I wont have to cut cables. The glass removal wasnt too bad; I used a heat gun and slowly inserted thin-bladed putty knife.

[miketyler 15]

Chuck - you were going with the Mustang power window switch? Do you by chance have a schematic or know how they wire up? Each mirror assembly has two servos and thee wires. Looks like most of the mustang controllers (as well as several other OEMS) has seven wires. I guess I could ohm it out and see which contacts are made when the lever is in a given position. I actually tried this and got some conflicting results. Any help would be appreciated

[danno 128]

Mike, if I understand this correctly, you were looking for a different housing so if you screw it up you always have a back-up plan. The mirror housings I think are all the same for Mustang, Torino, Granada, TBird, etc, for many years. Only the bases are different, thus the different part numbers on them. Some of the other mirrors mentioned are much cheaper than Mustang mirrors and more available. But I think it is too late for this suggestion now, at least for you. But if someone else wants to use a different mirror and keep their Mustang mirror original, remember this?

[miketyler 15]

Actually the deal was I didn't want to destroy the cable and I wanted a contingency plan if I didnt like the power mirror. To remove the cable assembly I would have had to cut the cable crimps and I just wasnt willing to do that.

 

Coincidentally, the donor pair I bought had a drivers side base that had a 1/4" wide slit cut in it apparently to replace the base only without cutting the cable. I guess thats what happended to this one, was replaced from another model car and they cut the base to put a Mustang pedestel on it without cutting the cable.

[Mach 351 10]

I tried several options for remote mirrors. I first tried some Torino mirrors I got on eBay. They have cables on both sides. The footprint is slightly longer and the mounting angle (to the car) is different. You would have to do some creative grinding to get them to fit.

 

I didn’t think about swapping the guts on my stock mirrors, so I ended up using mid-80’s Mazda RX-7 mirrors. They look like the Ford racing mirrors and are fully electric remote. The base needed to be ground to fit at the right angle, but the base is separate from the mirror mount and was easy to modify. They also have a smaller footprint so it would be easy enough to go back to original mirrors at a later date. The biggest issue is that the parts are 30+ years old and can be stubborn at times.

 

Using later model parts seems like a much better option, but with no less work. Wiring can be tricky, but if you browse around some late model Ford sites somebody will likely have a walkthrough. That’s how I figured out my Mazda mirrors. The key is to identify your 12vdc wire and the ground. A multi-meter, or simple circuit tester, will point you the rest of the way.

[miketyler 15]

My goal was to make it stealth. Retain 100% stock look but have them electrically controlled. Not quite there yet.

[MustangChuck 16]

Miketyler, sorry I've been away for a little while. I will dig out my 95 shop manuals and see what I can figure out for the switch wiring. I was voltage tracing my passenger window motor on the 95 last weekend (hoping it was a wiring issue and not the motor again). Ford uses +/- voltage to control direction, so only three wires should be necessary. One ground and one power for each servo. The window motor appeared to be +/- 6 volts. I don't know what the mirrors might be, but they, too, are probably 6 volt.

 

And, yes, I will be using the switch from the 94 donor to control the mirrors. I will probably place it over the hole for the cable, but we'll see. I need new door panels any way, so I may end up mounting the switch on the center console.

Edited August 16, 2012 by MustangChuck

[miketyler 15]

Yes, I figured they use reverse polarity on either axis servos but the 6v thing I didn't see. I have been testing with 12v. I found a pretty slick joystick style control out of a Range Rover that I'd like to use if I could but there's no telling how theirs are wired.

[MustangChuck 16]

Ok. Found my manuals (it helps if I put things back when I'm done, but I'll never learn...).

 

The switch has 7 wires. There is a key tab just below the 1st pin.

Pin 4 8 Pin

Pin 3 7 Pin

Pin 2 6 Pin

Pin 1 5 Pin

 

Pin 1 -- LG/Y -- Battery Power (B+)

Pin 2 -- Empty

Pin 3 -- DB -- Left Up/Down control

Pin 4 -- R -- Left Left/Right control

Pin 5 -- BK -- Ground

Pin 6 -- Y -- Left Motor Control

Pin 7 -- P -- Right Up/Down Motor Control

Pin 8 -- DG -- Right Left/Right Motor Control

 

Pin 6 may simply be which (left or right) mirror is being controlled.

 

The left side mirror is pinned like this:

Pin 1 -- R -- Left/Right motor

Pin 2 -- DB -- Up/Down motor

Pin 3 -- Y -- Motor Solenoid control

 

The right side mirror is pinned like this:

Pin 1 -- DG -- Left/Right motor

Pin 2 -- P -- Up/Down motor

Pin 3 -- W -- Motor Solenoid control

 

They are pinned from left to right with the clip on the bottom. My driver's side connector has numbers on the back. They are not in order, something like 2-1-3. There are the same color wires going in.

 

I hope to have scans up this weekend of the electronics pages. (There are a couple of pages on assembly and disassembly.)

 

Chuck

[miketyler 15]

Wow Chuck - you went to a lot of trouble to type all this out, thank you!

[MustangChuck 16]

Eh. I type pretty quickly so it wasn't that big a deal. Plus I had the books beside me. It will take me longer to dig the scanner out of the closet and set it up than it took me to type that message. Hope it was useful.

 

Chuck

Edited September 20, 2012 by MustangChuck
(spelling)

[miketyler 15]

I bought this one from a later model Mustang. I would bet pins out the same as the one you have, hope to test this week. Is your switch illuminated?

 

Edited September 18, 2012 by miketyler

[MustangChuck 16]

No, my switch is not illuminated. Attached is very similar to what mine looks like.

 

Chuck

[ashleesmach1 28]

when you get this done you should post all you did, please :) there others who would to do this :) ME ME ME ME ME ME LOL!!!!

[MustangChuck 16]

When I finish this, I plan to fully document and share what I did. My biggest problem is time (and money).

 

M/C

[miketyler 15]

Found the diagram. If you want to use the late-model round joystick style this wiring diagram works. Disregard colors if yours dont match, the pin position is correct.

 

Also for future reference, ck this site out for free wiring diagrams. Even has two TSB's for 70 Mustang.

http://www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html

[miketyler 15]

Also for those looking to add some subtle upgrades, they now have convex mirrors for passenger side sport mirror. I hadnt seen these before so I think they are a relatively new product from Scott Drake. They have the "objects in mirror are closer...." warning as well. Price is about the same as custom cut auto mirror glass from glass shop.

 

http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/C9ZZ-17696-CNVX.aspx?wid=141

 

 

 

[miketyler 15]

Finally got a match on the paint. I guess if you want to get a good match, you have to buy the upper end product (Deltron in this case). Got passenger side assembled, waiting on convex mirror.