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Jimjific

Finished Heim Joint Struts

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The second one could possibly work since the "u"-shape opening is .870". The heim plus the two seals comes to .850 so you would have .010" on a side which should pinch quit easily. My only worry is that hopefully there is a radius where the shaft meets the face of the clevis. You don't want a stress concentration here. Remember that this part is under tension in most situations. The 1/2" Bolt is nice though.

 

Here is a quick CAD model I did of the new clevis. I had to guess on quite a few dimensions since they only give some of them from the site. If you get one and can get me more accurate info, I can update the model.

Assy_Shank_Clevis.sized.jpg

 

Jim

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this is what they sent me Shaft Diameter0.500" (1/2")

Center Hole to End of Shank3.380

Inside Width0.870"

Hole Diameter0.500" (1/2")

Material TypeSteel

FinishZinc

Sold in QuantityEach

NotesIncludes bushings. Center of hole to face is 1.13"

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Jim how has this held up for you? I have built basically the exact same thing and fixing to install it. Just wanting to see how yours has held up and if you have had any issues. Thanks. 

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Kris,

Well.... It was holding up fine and I drove it hard. I also did coil overs, and a rack system. But then I had a garage fie and lost everything in it including my 1969 fastback. I got the car out but not far enough away and it caught fire. Engine compartment up to interior dash. At the time, I wish I had known I wasn't going to keep the car since I would have taken these off as well as the custom rack setup. Insurance would have never known the difference.

Anyway, from what I used it, it worked great and really freed up the suspension. Best handling Mustang I've ever had.

Jim

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Whoa! Really nice work Jim, that took a bit of time eh? Let's pray these pics don't also get deleted.

I love your work, especially using a bolt with the proper length shoulder and then trimming the threads. So many people still have threads in a bearing area. 

With the quality of your work, I don't think you could sell them for a profit even if you used slave labor :)

 

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Bob,

Thanks for the compliments. Maybe if I was retired and not doing a ton of other things I could makes some and get a few bucks.

On a tangent discussion of front strut rods, I currently have a 67 Cougar GT. 67 cougars use an articulated strut rod where the joint is near the arm. I'm not exactly sure how this helps especially since it is not a ball but an axial joint.

Jim

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Heck, looking at pics of that Cougar strut arm sure makes it seem like you could use your Mustang strut arm design on it. 

Speaking of your Mustang, it brings back horrible memories of seeing the pics of it burned. 

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Bob,

Yes, I still have times where I miss that car. I had it set up really well and being that is was a plain Jane 302 fastback I didn't mind mods to it. Also, I still find myself thinking I have a tool that was lost in the fire.

I did buy this with the insurance Money from the car.

525383590_ford_1970_mach1(19)Resized.thumb.jpg.b35c6755c47a007bb086a8373f8a3f20.jpg

As the picture shows, it was from Florida. NY does not have palm trees. It was from a collector that passed away. It was a really nice car, but it never really felt like it was mine since it was already restored. Plus, the motor must have had 11:1 or more compression since it would ping even with the best gas I could find. The estate guy told me they ran 100 octane in it. So.... I sold it about two months ago. I am not kidding when I say it took only 20 minutes to sell it on Craigslist. I couldn't believe it.

Ended up getting this about a month ago.

664756710_PassengerSide.thumb.jpg.fcd13cd07c15003050e681c1623b16ba.jpg

67 GT Cougar. Early production car. Got it from an original family out of Colorado. It is probably the most original Mustang/Cougar I have ever owned. XR-7's hadn't come out yet but the guys aunt put about every other option in it. It even has a working tilt away wheel. I've been really enjoying this car, nothing feels like a big block car.

Jim

 

 

 

 

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