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TexasEd

69 Fastback: First car in 1985 - Bought it back in 2011

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I rebuilt my first carburetor yesterday. I know it took longer than it should have because it was the first time through it and couldn't understand some of the instructions.

 

Eventually I found a good video of a guy rebuilding a similar carb and then the instructions made sense, especially adjusting the float.

 

There also seems to be an extra spring on my throttle linkage that I need to figure out. Does the spring I circled look right? (I haven't reattached the bowl because I need to torque the power valve first.)

 

D8BDE3DE-6F64-4534-9A4E-6FD244D89117-3831-00000982301A1DE7_zps6b2e64d7.jpg

 

I also did some more clean up in the engine bay and got the battery side ready to go. I was also able to get the dirt off the balancer enough to see the fine timing marks from underneath. I'll clean them a little more and I should be able to pit some paint on them now that I can see them.

 

I also did some more work on the air cleaner base but my paint (Plastikote engine paint) keeps clogging if it isn't a brand new can.

 

Next stop is cleaning the inside of the intake manifold.

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That spring looks like it is for the automatic kick down lever. I just got done rebuilding a Holley 500 2 barrel. Great throttle response carb. but the gas mileage has been slaughtered. I'm rebuilding the autolight right now too and I might switch back to see if the mileage improves since I have set up this Mustang more for handling than burning the 1/4 mile.

 

Jim

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Kinda wondering why I hadn't seen you here lately Ed, sorry to hear about your Dad. He had to have been a great Dad based on what little I know about his Son. Cherish the memories. I'm sure you'll think fondly of him often while working on the Mustang. I know I do.

 

Bob

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Here is the reassembled carburetor. The first picture has the spring attached only at the fixed mounting point. The second shows it attached where I think it was before. If that is correct it helps pull the throttle back closed.

 

67B4EC62-FCA0-49C9-8F85-960BFEC42DE0-4365-00000A921F6715BB_zps02fc24c9.jpg

 

3A72239F-7645-4B24-9845-23EA997EDFFE-4365-00000A922B16CBDA_zps2d66d6f0.jpg

 

The water pump still needs to be replaced. I decided to order a high-flow pump and paint it to match the block instead of rebuilding the old one. I've gotten my wife to agree to that purchase if I hold off until early June. I guess it will be my Father's day present. Once I have that I should be able to reassemble the engine.

 

I'll be getting a new thermostat and hoses all around and new temperature sending unit just to be sure. I'll also be getting new mounting bolts for the intake, alternator, water pump, AC, and valve covers.

 

In the meantime I need to clean the carbon deposits out of my intake manifold because they have some walnut shells stuck in them from the guy who did the media blasting. I'm just going to saturate it with carb cleaner and use the compressor to blow it out.

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Oh, and when I threw the old fuel filter in the box that I was storing parts in a huge pile of rust dust fell out of it. I'm sure it came from the rusted out fuel tank I posted pictures of.

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Ed,

 

That spring is for the automatic down shift. If you notice as you rotate the throttle, that lever will engage only at almost wide open throttle. So this spring keeps the down shift from engaging until then.

 

Jim

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Ed,

 

That spring is for the automatic down shift. If you notice as you rotate the throttle, that lever will engage only at almost wide open throttle. So this spring keeps the down shift from engaging until then.

 

Jim

 

 

Thanks, that makes perfect sense! With the spring off it engages right away. The spring holds it back to keep it still until the throttle is about 80%.

 

I'll be back for advice when I need to hook up the throttle cables.

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Follow up question...

 

I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum downshift on my C4. The transmission guy was telling me about it. If that is the case then is this mechanical one redundant or does it activate the vacuum port in some way?

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Ed,

 

So you do not have a bar (resembling lawn chair tubing) that runs down the left side (Drivers) of the bell housing? If you don't then you do not need the spring the arm that mounts to the base of the carb. Holley used a screw that would keep the kick down arm from flopping around if not used. See screw in yellow circle. Holley says to remove this screw if using the tubular kick down.

 

100_1748_2.sized.jpg

 

Jim

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Took some more time off since we had a baby last year. The last two weekends the kids and I have worked on the car. They pulled out the old gas tank and scraped off the sound deadener in the trunk while standing in the hole.

 

I put the new temperature sending unit in the intake manifold and cleaned up the thermostat housing. I also re-installed the restored battery tray Next I'll restore the power steering pump and put the correct fan on my alternator.

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Here are my helpers in the trunk

 

20140209_141906_zpsg9ifcxx3.jpg

 

Here are the refurbished intake manifold and air cleaner

 

20140225_165107_zpskvv7aopi.jpg

 

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And a question, what is the official name of these clips for body panel bolts? Where is the best place to buy extras?

 

20140222_182046_zpscyk2uukn.jpg

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Hope the workers don't charge too much per hour! Cute kids, they're about my 2 grand daughters age.

Don't know the name of the nuts, but I've got two local nearby store that all them. Gotta have something in Austin.

 

Bob

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The workers are good for about 15 minutes at a time, the rest is spent entertaining me as they ride bikes or make chalk drawings in the driveway.

 

The only thing they really want in return is to go for rides when it is working again. We limped around the block on a leaking carb and a tire with a bad valve stem before I took it apart. They really want to take OUR Mustang to the local cruise in instead of taking the minivan.

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And a question, what is the official name of these clips for body panel bolts? Where is the best place to buy extras?

 

Nice car & great history! Around here we call those 'speed nuts'. Most parts outlets would have; hopefully in the size you need.

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I stripped down the power steering reservoir and primed and re-painted it with the NPD power steering paint. I used a dark primer and the final color came out darker than I thought it should but it still has the nice blue metallic color. Because of the temperature here I heated the part and warmed the paint can with my heat gun and then pre-heated the oven then turned it off and put it in the oven to finish curing. I'm very happy with the finish.

 

I bought a new pump to insert in the reservoir from AutoZone and the cast iron front has the FoMoCo casting on it, I don't know that it has the same casting numbers on it but it will be hidden behind the pulley anyway. I'll try to get some pictures tonight.

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I placed the order for my suspension rebuild with John at Opentracker Racing Products last week and most of them have arrived at the local post office today. I'm excited to have overcome the financial challenge and now on to the technical challenge of getting this car road worthy again.

 

I ordered:

1" drop template

1/4" Poly coil spring insulators

560 1" drop coil springs

1 1/8" front sway bar kit

Roller spring perches

Standard Upper arms

Standard Lower arms

Strut rod bushings

Steering kit with roller idler arm for P/S

KYB Front shocks

Grab-A-Track rear shocks

Black export brace

Black Monte Carlo bar .. curved

Camber kit

4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit

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