JayEstes 172 Report post Posted February 26, 2012 (edited) I have pulled the front strut rod (drivers side) on my 69. When I followed the shop manual, it said to pry the forward washer forward with two 18in pry bars on either side to "separate the inner sleeve from the outer sleeve". My parts are all original (I believe), and these sleeves were stuck so bad that I pulled the flange of the inner sleeve through the hole in the forward washer. See pic. No big deal really since I have a rebuild kit. However, the rebuild kit I have doesn't use the inner/outer sleeve design. My new kit has a single "fairly thick" sleeve, 2 bumpers, 2 washers - but only a single piece that could go on either the front side of the frame hole, or the back side. The pic shows this configuration. There are no instructions with the kit. Does it even matter which side I put the "frame washer" (for lack of a better word)? Let me know if anyone has any idea how this is supposed to go... Thanks, Jay Edited February 26, 2012 by JayEstes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted February 26, 2012 (edited) I have pulled the front strut rod (drivers side) on my 69. When I followed the shop manual, it said to pry the forward washer forward with two 18in pry bars on either side to "separate the inner sleeve from the outer sleeve". My parts are all original (I believe), and these sleeves were stuck so bad that I pulled the flange of the inner sleeve through the hole in the forward washer. See pic. No big deal really since I have a rebuild kit. However, the rebuild kit I have doesn't use the inner/outer sleeve design. My new kit has a single "fairly thick" sleeve, 2 bumpers, 2 washers - but only a single piece that could go on either the front side of the frame hole, or the back side. The pic shows this configuration. There are no instructions with the kit. Does it even matter which side I put the "frame washer" (for lack of a better word)? Let me know if anyone has any idea how this is supposed to go... Thanks, Jay Edited February 26, 2012 by JayEstes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 29, 2012 Well i can tell you this, the front and back washers dont go on like they are in the picture your showing... Keep your origional washers, they have the placement directions right on them...it will say front to rubber etc... I put a kit on like the one you have on a friends car...I just stuck the spacer thingy on the back side, but flipped the back washer away from teh front of the car like its supposed to be...it seems everyone has the idea that the washers are supposed to look like a sandwitch, but according to what i have read, and can see on my origional washers, it clearly says how to put the washers on and they actually wont go on any other way...They should look like this ---(@( Not like this ----(@) The ---represent the rod, and the @ symbol represents your rubber bushings and the ( represents your washers. So the first pic is how your stuff should be installed. The left side represents the front of the car. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted February 29, 2012 Aha! Thank you! I think... any input is help, actually. I don't have any other directions, and I have been making assumptions about the cupped washer placement based on limited experience with it.... and what I have taken off so far. In the attached pic, I show the d-side refurbed, and the p-side as it came off the car. Are you saying that the concave side of the aft washer should be towards the back of the car? If so that is surprising to me, and it doesn't seem to resemble the looks of the old one which I have removed. Thanks for the feedback though, this is helping me get this figured out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted February 29, 2012 One other thing, I do have the exploded view drawing book, which shows the blow-apart view of the strut, but it only shows the original inner/outer sleeve design which doesn't have the "frame washer", and the cupped washers look different on front and back sides (although they do seem to be "cupped side towards the rubber... Hard to tell actually... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted February 29, 2012 Why would one washer fit the contour of the bushing, and the other washer not? Not make sense to me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted February 29, 2012 This has perplexed me for some time as well. I have seem the outer cupped washers installed either way ( ---(@( and ---(@) ) on restored cars and have always wondered what is going on there. Interesting..... Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmz69 10 Report post Posted February 29, 2012 assuming the strut rod is original from factory and has never been replaced, i'd go with the way you have it on your new strut in the pic. it does seem to make the best sense. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted February 29, 2012 Moog Instructions Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted March 1, 2012 Cool attachment FRH. Do you know what was Ford's reasoning for doing it that way? Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harlan69mach 21 Report post Posted March 1, 2012 Here is a photo of the strut rod on our 69 Mach 1 in its original configuration. We are the original owners so know this is the way it came from the factory. Took the photo before taking it apart last week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
06minx09 10 Report post Posted March 1, 2012 If You use original rubber bushings it is Ok to use the strut washers in the same configuration cupped toward the bushings. If You are using the stiffer eurethane bushings I would recommend the rear strut rod bushing washer be reversed, (cupped side of washer NOT facing bushing) A buddy of Mine broke both strut rods due to fatigue, not enough flex! Bad scene. New struts,flipped the washers no problem since. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted March 2, 2012 I thought that would stir up the pot, lol. The Moogs are highly rated on VMF and thats their instructions. My oems were like Harlans picture as well. If you care to understand the theory check this out: http://www.google.com/patents/US3552785 I am going with rod ends on my current build. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
