Powershift 19 Report post Posted February 22, 2012 There are special crimps needed when assembling plug wires on the boot end of the wire. Not all wire crimpers are created equal, I guess you could say. LOL Here is a set of plug wire crimpers I own. Notice the wire strip section near the bottom of the tool... 7mm wires, and 8mm wires. This part is used to strip back the spark plug wire coating, and leave the core exposed for crimping. You want about 3/4 of an inch of core exposed, as the exposed end will be looped through a hole in the plug wire's metal socket end... to then be installed (crimped) onto the wire. Here is the end of the crimper, with the special "W" die for properly crimping plug wire ends. I will actually be installing a set of similar wires on a buddy's '66 Shelby in the next couple days. If you want, I can take some pics of the proper way to crimp wires, and post them for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted February 22, 2012 Ah, but need and want are 2 different things. Look what I found, bundled together saves $50.00 sold individually. http://www.jegs.com/i/Pertronix/751/BUNDLE006/10002/-1 Let me know if you replace your stock dizzy, I might be interested in it if it's a manual tranny version (two vacuum lines to the vacuum advance can). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted February 22, 2012 Ah, but need and want are 2 different things. Look what I found, bundled together saves $50.00 sold individually. http://www.jegs.com/i/Pertronix/751/BUNDLE006/10002/-1 Let me know if you replace your stock dizzy, I might be interested in it if it's a manual tranny version (two vacuum lines to the vacuum advance can). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted February 22, 2012 Powershift, I have one of those tools. Didn't know about the crimp portion on the end. Any pics would help. Did alot of stripping, cutting and crimping when I replaced all the wiring in 2010. 69RavenConv - c4, one vacuum line Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted February 22, 2012 Powershift, I have one of those tools. Didn't know about the crimp portion on the end. Any pics would help. Did alot of stripping, cutting and crimping when I replaced all the wiring in 2010. 69RavenConv - c4, one vacuum line Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted February 24, 2012 The parts showed up today and looooooook niiiiiiiice! Now I just got to get a day to change things out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted February 24, 2012 The parts showed up today and looooooook niiiiiiiice! Now I just got to get a day to change things out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmz69 10 Report post Posted February 26, 2012 May be stupid question, but did you check the battery cables and terminals. Saw you just replaced a bunch of things, repeated connecting and disconnecting the terminals can cause the wires to fray just enough that every thing will run smoothly one second then die the next, especialy with engine vibration. Cheaper to double check then buying new parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cmz69 10 Report post Posted February 26, 2012 May be stupid question, but did you check the battery cables and terminals. Saw you just replaced a bunch of things, repeated connecting and disconnecting the terminals can cause the wires to fray just enough that every thing will run smoothly one second then die the next, especialy with engine vibration. Cheaper to double check then buying new parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted February 26, 2012 Yup. Even the ground connections. It's just my luck with this silly machine. It must have been destiny cause I saved $75 on the package price and the wife always says that to me so it must be right! Ha. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted February 26, 2012 Yup. Even the ground connections. It's just my luck with this silly machine. It must have been destiny cause I saved $75 on the package price and the wife always says that to me so it must be right! Ha. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted March 17, 2012 Powershift - my crimper is not like the one in the pic. Where oh where do I find this sophisticated tool? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted March 17, 2012 I got the one I posted from MAC Tools when I was a mechanic. But, I'm sure they can be found elsewhere (for cheaper!). Just make sure they are for plug wires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted March 20, 2012 Found the tool on Amazon.com. It is the Moroso version but looks just like it. Couldn't find the Mac one. I blew up your pic and saw the brand name. Good to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djs69stang 10 Report post Posted April 11, 2012 So, an open Saturday finally showed up. Installed the new Pertronix II Distributor, Pertronix coil, and 8mm Pertronix wires. All went well on the install except for one little boo-boo on the distributor that caused a rather loud backfire and the cops showed up because someone said they heard a gun fire! HA! But, I drove over 40 miles last night and it did not DIE! Quit! or otherwise cause any scary feelings. She ran great. Yea!! Back to cruising for the summer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted April 11, 2012 LOL Neighbors are funny! Gratzz on getting er up & running again!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Powershift 19 Report post Posted April 12, 2012 HA HA!! Gotta love it when the neighbors overreact Glad to hear the car is running strong again!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 46 Report post Posted April 12, 2012 dare I ask, but did you wire up a new 12V feed to the pertronix distributor? (ie. No resistance wire?). Otherwise more gremlins might show up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted April 12, 2012 What gremlins do you speak of? I have installed a Pertronix II with just the 7 volt system. It said in the instructions that it will work fine on 7v but it is better on 12v. Just wondering what will be the problem. I find that I have to leave the key on for about 5 seconds in the morning for it to start properly. And a few other small things I'm not sure I can blame on the pertronix. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 46 Report post Posted April 17, 2012 I had mine wired up to the resistance wire, and after communicating with the folks at Pertronix, am convinced it was the source of my gremlins. I believe instructions for IgnitorII say it needs a 12v source. When cold, it would get 12V and be fine. After things are warmed up, it would have a lower voltage. While driving (hwy, extended drive), it would feel like the engine would cut out for a millisecond about once per hour. Once I stopped the car, it would refuse to start again...until everything had cooled off (several hours) and it would start/run like a champ again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted April 17, 2012 Interesting stuff. I have purchased Pertronix III and Flame-Thrower III coil. So no ballast needed and is best connected to dedicated 12v source, not the low resistance wire? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted April 18, 2012 I had mine wired up to the resistance wire, and after communicating with the folks at Pertronix, am convinced it was the source of my gremlins. I believe instructions for IgnitorII say it needs a 12v source. When cold, it would get 12V and be fine. After things are warmed up, it would have a lower voltage. While driving (hwy, extended drive), it would feel like the engine would cut out for a millisecond about once per hour. Once I stopped the car, it would refuse to start again...until everything had cooled off (several hours) and it would start/run like a champ again. Ahhh I have been having a little issue similar to this which is steadily getting worse. It has started to get a little miss at idle particularly in gear and only when it is warm. I have a suspicion that it is a bad battery earth/cable as it also has a little trouble cranking when hot. But now maybe it is both the cable and the distributor. Also tend to have to crank four or five times with a little throttle to start when hot, when before it was no throttle with one quick crank. I might run a lead from the battery to the positive side of the coil to check the theory. Probably fix that bad earth too. lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted April 18, 2012 Interesting stuff. I have purchased Pertronix III and Flame-Thrower III coil. So no ballast needed and is best connected to dedicated 12v source, not the low resistance wire? My reason for buying the pertronix II over the III was that I was told by the vendor it did not require a dedicated 12V power source but the PIII did. But that may not be entirely correct. I really do not want to run 12v due to the extra wiring and hassle, not to mention it not being correct, but it appears I have to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 46 Report post Posted April 18, 2012 Interesting stuff. I have purchased Pertronix III and Flame-Thrower III coil. So no ballast needed and is best connected to dedicated 12v source, not the low resistance wire? If you've got a dedicated 12V source for it, you're good to go! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted April 18, 2012 Good to know as I am adding another line already for accessories. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
