Paint Help "doing it myself"

[Boogerschnot 12]

So I let a buddy drive my car, the brakes went out and a Nissan Titan stopped the car via the front end. (Long Story Short)

 

I replaced the front inner aprons, radiator support and picked up some original fenders, headlight buckets and a grille.

 

I sanded the fenders down to smooth/metal/origial finish and shot them with some 2k epoxy primer and then put the car back together so I can drive it to work (gotta love those daily drivers). My hood is fiberglass and is on the car but being reworked to fit properly again.

 

I would like to repaint the entire car and fix a few problem areas in the meantime, just a couple of small dings and a rust spot or two. Can I use a grey scotch scuff pad to take down the clear and just re-shoot a base and clear over the 4 year old finish, or will I need to use something more aggressive. I plan on fixing the spots and shooting 2k over the repairs then sanding to blend. Im just not too sure what process I should go with. I have to get this done in the next two weeks and have a booth to shoot the car in on the Air Station, I just need some suggestions.

[Boogerschnot 12]

So I let a buddy drive my car, the brakes went out and a Nissan Titan stopped the car via the front end. (Long Story Short)

 

I replaced the front inner aprons, radiator support and picked up some original fenders, headlight buckets and a grille.

 

I sanded the fenders down to smooth/metal/origial finish and shot them with some 2k epoxy primer and then put the car back together so I can drive it to work (gotta love those daily drivers). My hood is fiberglass and is on the car but being reworked to fit properly again.

 

I would like to repaint the entire car and fix a few problem areas in the meantime, just a couple of small dings and a rust spot or two. Can I use a grey scotch scuff pad to take down the clear and just re-shoot a base and clear over the 4 year old finish, or will I need to use something more aggressive. I plan on fixing the spots and shooting 2k over the repairs then sanding to blend. Im just not too sure what process I should go with. I have to get this done in the next two weeks and have a booth to shoot the car in on the Air Station, I just need some suggestions.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Not a Pro painter, But you'll need something more agressive than a scotchbrite pad to get thru the clearcoat.

The last patch repair I did I used 400 grit wet sanding to break the clearcoat.

Just kept working it till the milky colored water turned and started showing color.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Not a Pro painter, But you'll need something more agressive than a scotchbrite pad to get thru the clearcoat.

The last patch repair I did I used 400 grit wet sanding to break the clearcoat.

Just kept working it till the milky colored water turned and started showing color.

[Boogerschnot 12]

I dont plan on taking the clear off just scuffing it to allow adhesion.

[Boogerschnot 12]

I dont plan on taking the clear off just scuffing it to allow adhesion.

[Fordrevhead 29]

I would reseal the entire car after repairs before paint. If you use 2k theres an open time within which you can spray paint over without sanding. I usually do 24 hrs but have done much less, like two or three hours if its warm and dry. The reasons that I am suggesting this are that your paint wont look two colors from varying base coats, you'll have better protection of any work you do underneath and three you'll get a better paint job as the sealer flows out nice and fills tiny scratches and you wont have to step sand quite so fine for days upon end.

[Fordrevhead 29]

I would reseal the entire car after repairs before paint. If you use 2k theres an open time within which you can spray paint over without sanding. I usually do 24 hrs but have done much less, like two or three hours if its warm and dry. The reasons that I am suggesting this are that your paint wont look two colors from varying base coats, you'll have better protection of any work you do underneath and three you'll get a better paint job as the sealer flows out nice and fills tiny scratches and you wont have to step sand quite so fine for days upon end.

[Lemon Owner 11]

I agree with revhead. Need to have a consistant base color and primer/filler will help with adhesion to the old paint and fill in minor imperfections. I would use a 400 or 600 grit over the entire car to scuff it enough to lay down the primer. It will also cover up anything in the paint that may react with the color or clear. Then of course make sure you do all the necessary steps to the repaired area to smooth it out like the rest of the car.

 

As revhead said there is a small window of opportunity where you do not have to sand the primer but I highly recommend it. Primer does not tend to lay down as smoothly as topcoat and you will have more work to do rubbing it back later. I know it is more work but the difference between a average job and a good job is only around 6 hours work.

 

Be sure to use a tack cloth before you lay down your colour and to filter the paint into the pot. Tack cloths and filters are cheap and well worth it.

[Lemon Owner 11]

I agree with revhead. Need to have a consistant base color and primer/filler will help with adhesion to the old paint and fill in minor imperfections. I would use a 400 or 600 grit over the entire car to scuff it enough to lay down the primer. It will also cover up anything in the paint that may react with the color or clear. Then of course make sure you do all the necessary steps to the repaired area to smooth it out like the rest of the car.

 

As revhead said there is a small window of opportunity where you do not have to sand the primer but I highly recommend it. Primer does not tend to lay down as smoothly as topcoat and you will have more work to do rubbing it back later. I know it is more work but the difference between a average job and a good job is only around 6 hours work.

 

Be sure to use a tack cloth before you lay down your colour and to filter the paint into the pot. Tack cloths and filters are cheap and well worth it.

[Pakrat 1,043]

So is neither yours or your friends insurance covering you for the repair work needed or are you just trying to pocket some of the cash and do it yourself?

[Pakrat 1,043]

So is neither yours or your friends insurance covering you for the repair work needed or are you just trying to pocket some of the cash and do it yourself?

[Boogerschnot 12]

All I had was liability. Learned a lesson on that one, can anyone suggest a good classic insurance company.

[Boogerschnot 12]

All I had was liability. Learned a lesson on that one, can anyone suggest a good classic insurance company.

[Pakrat 1,043]

OY! :death: Is he still your buddy?!?!?!?!?

 

One word, HAGERTY! Having gone thru the accident claim process I can attest that they aren't just affordable (if you qualify) but they are really there for you when you need them.

Edited February 15, 2012 by Pakrat

[Pakrat 1,043]

OY! :death: Is he still your buddy?!?!?!?!?

 

One word, HAGERTY! Having gone thru the accident claim process I can attest that they aren't just affordable (if you qualify) but they are really there for you when you need them.

Edited February 15, 2012 by Pakrat

[chillininnh 21]

Most, if not all, classic car insurance companies won't insure a daily driver.

[chillininnh 21]

Most, if not all, classic car insurance companies won't insure a daily driver.

[NJ_Bob 10]

So I let a buddy drive my car, the brakes went out and a Nissan Titan stopped the car via the front end. (Long Story Short)

 

I replaced the front inner aprons, radiator support and picked up some original fenders, headlight buckets and a grille.

 

I sanded the fenders down to smooth/metal/origial finish and shot them with some 2k epoxy primer and then put the car back together so I can drive it to work (gotta love those daily drivers). My hood is fiberglass and is on the car but being reworked to fit properly again.

 

I would like to repaint the entire car and fix a few problem areas in the meantime, just a couple of small dings and a rust spot or two. Can I use a grey scotch scuff pad to take down the clear and just re-shoot a base and clear over the 4 year old finish, or will I need to use something more aggressive. I plan on fixing the spots and shooting 2k over the repairs then sanding to blend. Im just not too sure what process I should go with. I have to get this done in the next two weeks and have a booth to shoot the car in on the Air Station, I just need some suggestions.

 

 

I'm more concerned that your entire brake system "went out". What was up with that?

[NJ_Bob 10]

So I let a buddy drive my car, the brakes went out and a Nissan Titan stopped the car via the front end. (Long Story Short)

 

I replaced the front inner aprons, radiator support and picked up some original fenders, headlight buckets and a grille.

 

I sanded the fenders down to smooth/metal/origial finish and shot them with some 2k epoxy primer and then put the car back together so I can drive it to work (gotta love those daily drivers). My hood is fiberglass and is on the car but being reworked to fit properly again.

 

I would like to repaint the entire car and fix a few problem areas in the meantime, just a couple of small dings and a rust spot or two. Can I use a grey scotch scuff pad to take down the clear and just re-shoot a base and clear over the 4 year old finish, or will I need to use something more aggressive. I plan on fixing the spots and shooting 2k over the repairs then sanding to blend. Im just not too sure what process I should go with. I have to get this done in the next two weeks and have a booth to shoot the car in on the Air Station, I just need some suggestions.

 

 

I'm more concerned that your entire brake system "went out". What was up with that?

[BAdass70 14]

Just make sure when you do paint the car prepping is the biggest thing. Make sure you use the correct amount of reducer, and hardner, I had to paint my own car several times because of that. Mixtures are very important. Also when you go to repaint the front end you may find that the rear of the car is going to be a different shade of the same color. You may find that respraying the whole car is your best bet.

[BAdass70 14]

Just make sure when you do paint the car prepping is the biggest thing. Make sure you use the correct amount of reducer, and hardner, I had to paint my own car several times because of that. Mixtures are very important. Also when you go to repaint the front end you may find that the rear of the car is going to be a different shade of the same color. You may find that respraying the whole car is your best bet.

[Boogerschnot 12]

I found a slight leak that let all the fluid out and then going down a hill with no fluid over the christmas master cylinder holes it sucked in some air and he lost all pressure in the pedal. Right front hose was loose. It sucks that if I were driving I would have used the e brake.

[Boogerschnot 12]

I found a slight leak that let all the fluid out and then going down a hill with no fluid over the christmas master cylinder holes it sucked in some air and he lost all pressure in the pedal. Right front hose was loose. It sucks that if I were driving I would have used the e brake.