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prayers1

Door replacement question

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Both of my doors are rotted underneath the door frame that faces the sill plate. The rot is about a foot long on each side. Has anyone repaired this section before? I haven't seen a patch from any of the vendors.

 

The bodyshop will have to make the repair as well as putting on new door skins on both doors.

 

My delima is, should I make the repairs of buy new door shells.

 

What is the difference between Dynacorn and the Standard doors sold at CJ's.

 

What would be the best value for the money.

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Both of my doors are rotted underneath the door frame that faces the sill plate. The rot is about a foot long on each side. Has anyone repaired this section before? I haven't seen a patch from any of the vendors.

 

The bodyshop will have to make the repair as well as putting on new door skins on both doors.

 

My delima is, should I make the repairs of buy new door shells.

 

What is the difference between Dynacorn and the Standard doors sold at CJ's.

 

What would be the best value for the money.

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Unless you were going to do the sheet metal work to the bottom of the door shell your self, I would think that buying repops from Dynacorn would be a cheaper route. I just re skinned both my doors a couple months ago with skins from CJ and fitment isn't that great, I spent a good part of 2 hours to get the driver side door to fit half way decent and the passenger side door is a mess I dont know what I am going to do with it atm.

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Unless you were going to do the sheet metal work to the bottom of the door shell your self, I would think that buying repops from Dynacorn would be a cheaper route. I just re skinned both my doors a couple months ago with skins from CJ and fitment isn't that great, I spent a good part of 2 hours to get the driver side door to fit half way decent and the passenger side door is a mess I dont know what I am going to do with it atm.

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I found out the hard way that the repros are very difficult to get all ligned up. THe gauge steel is thinner also. Along with that the internals (window, door handle holes etc) are not the same as the originals. has made for some clever ways to get it all to work. had to elongate holes etc. then when I got all that figured out the latches werent right so I had to space the strike stud. I recall the body shop telling me the original would have cost more to fix than replace. 20/20 now. I should have paid to have them fix the original. thats my 2 cents worth.

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I found out the hard way that the repros are very difficult to get all ligned up. THe gauge steel is thinner also. Along with that the internals (window, door handle holes etc) are not the same as the originals. has made for some clever ways to get it all to work. had to elongate holes etc. then when I got all that figured out the latches werent right so I had to space the strike stud. I recall the body shop telling me the original would have cost more to fix than replace. 20/20 now. I should have paid to have them fix the original. thats my 2 cents worth.

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I just bought from CJ's 2 full rear 1/4 Panels, trunk lid, rear valence etc... The major metal pieces are Dynacorn but the box still says Tawian.

Wouldn't the Standard repro doors also be made in Tawain?????

 

So, what is the difference if there is between Dynacorn and Standard Repro Door shells selling on CJ's.

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I just bought from CJ's 2 full rear 1/4 Panels, trunk lid, rear valence etc... The major metal pieces are Dynacorn but the box still says Tawian.

Wouldn't the Standard repro doors also be made in Tawain?????

 

So, what is the difference if there is between Dynacorn and Standard Repro Door shells selling on CJ's.

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Dynacorn is the only way to go or something like the hoods that are Ford endorsed.If it dosnt say Dynacorn on the box dont buy it.The dynacorn 69-70 doors Ive used have fit well.The r-dot/golden legion I wont let in the shop.Just my opinion...

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Dynacorn is the only way to go or something like the hoods that are Ford endorsed.If it dosnt say Dynacorn on the box dont buy it.The dynacorn 69-70 doors Ive used have fit well.The r-dot/golden legion I wont let in the shop.Just my opinion...

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I think it was advert as dyna but yes. box said Taiwan. As far as fit form and func is concered. I dont think they care much about the tweeking we must go through when it comes to 40+ year old repo parts. Is it possible to buy American made where the quality is better? I do know but I paid about $350 for the door.

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I think it was advert as dyna but yes. box said Taiwan. As far as fit form and func is concered. I dont think they care much about the tweeking we must go through when it comes to 40+ year old repo parts. Is it possible to buy American made where the quality is better? I do know but I paid about $350 for the door.

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etel64- Yeah, that seems to be about the average price for a repro and a little higher with Dynacorn. Theres a guy about 100 miles away from me advertising on Craigslist 2 NEW repro door shells for $600. I don't think their Dynacorn.

 

Another guy is selling 2 original doors for $100. No rot like mine but there is some at the front corner on one and more than likely it will need skins.

 

Anyone, whats the difference between Dynacorn and regular repro doors that are both made in Tawain? Trying to figure the best way to go!

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etel64- Yeah, that seems to be about the average price for a repro and a little higher with Dynacorn. Theres a guy about 100 miles away from me advertising on Craigslist 2 NEW repro door shells for $600. I don't think their Dynacorn.

 

Another guy is selling 2 original doors for $100. No rot like mine but there is some at the front corner on one and more than likely it will need skins.

 

Anyone, whats the difference between Dynacorn and regular repro doors that are both made in Tawain? Trying to figure the best way to go!

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Most of the aftermarket sheetmetal sucks from my own experience. Unless its just patch panels.

 

Get the orig doors and look for an NOS skin maybe.

Edited by 50dan

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Most of the aftermarket sheetmetal sucks from my own experience. Unless its just patch panels.

 

Get the orig doors and look for an NOS skin maybe.

Edited by 50dan

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2 photo's of original doors being sold about 2 hours from me for $100.00

th_PICT4810.jpg

 

Here's the worst spot on the pass door.

th_PICT4812.jpg

 

Here's the worst spot on the driver's door.

th_PICT4813.jpg

 

Dynacorn $612 + Freight OR Used $100 + cost to repair ???????????

Edited by prayers1

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2 photo's of original doors being sold about 2 hours from me for $100.00

th_PICT4810.jpg

 

Here's the worst spot on the pass door.

th_PICT4812.jpg

 

Here's the worst spot on the driver's door.

th_PICT4813.jpg

 

Dynacorn $612 + Freight OR Used $100 + cost to repair ???????????

Edited by prayers1

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I had my painter put new skins instead of new doors when I did my 70. He said it was a pain in the a__. He just did another mach (69) and person bought new doors and he said they fit great. Not sure of brand. I've got a 66 I'm doing now and I bought 2 new doors. One was a dynacorn and it fit great - the other was some other brand - did not fit well at all and sent it back. Waiting for a dynacorn door now - if I still have problems with lining up will put skin on door I have now. Pretty much same shape as yours.

 

Most parts are made in Tawain. But not always the same stampers. Dynacorn seems to be more concious on the quality of their parts. You can call them - I've done that a few times on parts I was considering.

 

In talking to painter I'm going with this time he said he charges 6 hours to skin a door. He's charging my $30 hour shop rate. So a new door is about a wash for the 66 by the time you add labor and skin cost. 1970 doors are quite a bit more - another reason I went with skins on the 1970.

 

Since I'm trying to do a lot of the work myself nowadays, and I'm better at hanging then patching and time I have to work on car is fairly limited - I'm looking to buy new doors.

 

 

If you can swing it - I'd buy them. Check out CJ Pony - free shipping on doors - everyone else charges truck freight. If they don't fit well send them back most places are pretty good at letting you return them and covering the return shipping costs.

Edited by PaleRider

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I had my painter put new skins instead of new doors when I did my 70. He said it was a pain in the a__. He just did another mach (69) and person bought new doors and he said they fit great. Not sure of brand. I've got a 66 I'm doing now and I bought 2 new doors. One was a dynacorn and it fit great - the other was some other brand - did not fit well at all and sent it back. Waiting for a dynacorn door now - if I still have problems with lining up will put skin on door I have now. Pretty much same shape as yours.

 

Most parts are made in Tawain. But not always the same stampers. Dynacorn seems to be more concious on the quality of their parts. You can call them - I've done that a few times on parts I was considering.

 

In talking to painter I'm going with this time he said he charges 6 hours to skin a door. He's charging my $30 hour shop rate. So a new door is about a wash for the 66 by the time you add labor and skin cost. 1970 doors are quite a bit more - another reason I went with skins on the 1970.

 

Since I'm trying to do a lot of the work myself nowadays, and I'm better at hanging then patching and time I have to work on car is fairly limited - I'm looking to buy new doors.

 

 

If you can swing it - I'd buy them. Check out CJ Pony - free shipping on doors - everyone else charges truck freight. If they don't fit well send them back most places are pretty good at letting you return them and covering the return shipping costs.

Edited by PaleRider

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