Ray 10 Report post Posted September 3, 2014 Hey Ash, how are you mate. Got myself another Mustang but lost your email address (new computer)Email me a message so I can get back to you. Thanks Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted September 3, 2014 Hi Ray, Going well thanks mate! Hope you are too. It's been a while. Just happen to be up, couldn't sleep. Great to hear that you got yourself another car, very nice! I'll PM you my address. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zipppo 11 Report post Posted September 3, 2014 Ash, Question are there many 76-80 Ford Escorts still around there? If so what do they sell for? Lastly any ideas what shipping to the U.S. would be? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted September 3, 2014 Hi Zipppo, I can't say for sure sorry as I don't keep my eye out for them. Definitely not a car you often see driving around, but most older cars are like that now. Have a look around on www.ebay.com.au www.carsales.com.au www.gumtree.com.au They would be the main places used here in Aus. If there is anything near me near Newcastle, NSW, I'd be more than happy to have a look for you. Both of my Mustangs cost me $3300 each to ship a few years ago. I'd expect the price to still be similar now. John Cain brought both of mine over for me and many other things since. I'd recommend him to anyone. He is based out of Orange, CA and ships to Newcastle here in Aus. I've never asked but am sure he could organise it in the reverse direction. His family does the US side as well so you know you are only dealing with him and not two different mobs. http://www.classic-usa-cars.com/index4.html Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted September 4, 2014 The new Quicktime bellhousing arrived today. They are a nice piece or gear that's for sure. Also got a new balancer. I just need to decide on a clutch and then it's all off to be balanced. First though I plan to dummy up the T56 to the block and drop them into the car to figure out what needs to be done to fit the T56. I'll do that first before the block goes off to be machined. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted September 17, 2014 Here's some gearbox po rn I've been looking into what to do with the speedo drive as this has no allocation for anything. The Falcon uses one of the front ABS pick ups pulse to generate a reading. I can't justify the price I have seen on those output shaft/extension housing kits I have seen but can't pin point yet an affordable way to do it. This might be a possibility perhaps if some type or ring gear on the output shaft or a front wheel was set up with an electronic pick up? http://www.terf.com/SpeedChangerMechanicalPage.htm I'd like to keep the original dash even though I don't have a tach dash. One day one of those might come along. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted September 17, 2014 nice.... looking good! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted September 17, 2014 Mmmm, serious car p0rn. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zipppo 11 Report post Posted October 3, 2014 Nice set up! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) Well, it's been a while since I've done anything that has been in benefit of my poor old 69 Mustang. But the time has come. The wife's projects are near over......oh gees, I can only hope anyway. I've given in on several other things in life. My youngest starts kindergarten next year so no more child car fees:clap:And life itself just seems to be getting in a better groove. Today for the first time in I think 3 years, the engine block sat back into the engine bay I bolted it up to the Quicktime bellhousing and T56 and dropped it back in to see what has to be done with the trans crossmember and floor pan With it sitting as it is, it looks too far leaned back. But I need to measure and compare this to the top loader to confirm just how much. Once I get some measurements, I'll know where to start from there. If the tunnel support has to be modified, which I think it will be, I think I might just move it back to line up with the T56 mount point. This will mean I will need to change the handbrake (E-brake) cables but so be it. I don't have them anyway so neither here nor there really. Might even add a floor mounted one instead. Would be an easier job that way. I am also now in the opinion I couldn't care less about car value and concours stuff. I just want to drive my car and make it the most enjoyable car to drive as possible. I don't plan on selling it, I don't plan on showing it, I don't car what people in the street think I should have done with it and upsetting those who know it all, well, that is actually quite enjoyable :lol: Sorry to those guys that do get into it. I can't even commit to joining a car club because of the politics. Which brings me to the shock towers. What to do? I would like some more room but I don't know if I can get more room without removing them completely and going a coil-over front end of some type. Which I don't want to do as it's a stupid amount of money. If I could notch them, great. But can I? I can't find any info to say I can. Seeing as the big block bracing on my towers has been hacked by someone sometime before it was mine, should I just trim them so the top of them is horizontal? This would cut them in about half and give me maybe 10mm. Which may not be a lot but it would take the clearance from 1-3mm to 11-13mm which is massive. A little while ago I also found this 69 R-code on ebay and it is near what I want to do with mine. I soon realised they had deleted the chrome trim that goes along the rocker and this was something I had thought about but wasn't sure. After seeing these pics I'm sold on it. I think it looks great. I'd like to take it a step further though and delete the side indicator. Mine are in the wrong spot, both too high so the rear of the Mach stripes angled up, so have to be moved anyway so I think I'll just blank them off. A few months ago I got myself another F-truck. I had purchased one in Washington but pulled out of the sale as the seller was saying one thing and doing another. Which worked out good for me as I found this old girl in Aus. The seller of this one brought it 2 years ago in South Carolina and brought it back along with a few others just like her. He was into drag racing and would go to the States with his sons, race their cars and buy other cars while they were there. This truck sat on display in his parts store in Aus until I brought it. I flew to Brisbane to check it out, spent the day doing some mechanical repairs then drove it the 900km's home the next day. One of the best drives in my life, I loved it! She is a 76 F100 with a 390, C6 and 9 inch. It had 97000 original miles on it when I got it and it is about to click over 99000 now. I've done a few little things to it to make it reliable for everyday use but that is about it. And the things I had to do were mostly just replace worn out stuff from it sitting around. Having a shed full of FE parts has already worked out well on several occasions. She needs a wash in these pics, lots of bugs squashed over the front, but she still looks awesome. Edited December 27, 2014 by Ash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted December 27, 2014 Oh, and I also brought a new set of these for the 69. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted December 27, 2014 Man, these look sweet!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 27, 2014 Welcome back Ash! You got a pay raise without having that day care bill. I'm loving that F100, very nice. I believe since you got so screwed on the purchase of the R code you're entitled to do to it as you wish. As far as trimming the shock towers, they are buggered up anyway, so have at them. The only way I've seen them trimmed is with a verticle cut. Both FordMuscle and MustangSteve have how to's on them. Even trimmed shock towers can be returned to stock. I never cared for the look of the 69 rocker molding, so I removed mine. I don't think the actual angle of the motor really matters, as long as it matches the rear axle pinion for no vibration. I don't know if I've seen a T56 swap w/o the tunnel being trimmed to allow the trans height to be ok. You will lose quite a few pounds with an aluminum top end on that FE! Or should I say kilos and aluminium? Life gets in the way of most of our builds, but is usually worth it. Our kids turn into teenagers way too soon. I hope the new year brings happy times with the R code mate. Enjoy! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted December 27, 2014 G'day, Bob! You're not wrong, the kids grow up way too fast. Our eldest is almost 18 and is now moving interstate. And the rest just keep growing way too fast. But working from home has been the best move I've made. I get to see grow up and become little people. But that daycare bill is one I wont miss, that's for sure! :pinch: I believe since you got so screwed on the purchase of the R code you're entitled to do to it as you wish. I think that is the best outlook on the car yet, love it! I'll have to look into that shock tower mod you mention by trimming them vertically. I haven't seen that. I was also told another way to do it was to install 71-73 shock towers. I was told that they are similar to B9 towers but don't require suspension changes. If I can find some towers, this may be the best way to get the most clearance. I need to change the front left apron anyway as it has been swapped out previously but done terribly. I think in a way I've cheated in making clearance for the T56 in the tunnel. It'll be much easier getting it mounted with no floor in place then I can make the new 1 piece floor pan to suit. Ha, you got it! I'll lose a whole lot of kg's with all that alluminium going in. Including the T56 over the top loader too. Now all I need is some more cm's clearance in the engine bay so I can enjoy working in there on those headers.:lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted December 27, 2014 Nice looking F-truck Ash, heres a link to notching shock towers while retaining factory suspension. http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/suspension-articles/498392-notching-shock-towers.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted December 27, 2014 Cheers, jandj! That is a brilliant write up. I had thought about doing similar but wasn't sure about clearance to the shock, I don't have mine in to check. Looks like it is indeed possible. Thank you! My truck lived in your neck of the woods in Brisbane for two years before I brought it. And as lost as I got while I was there picking it up, I didn't care, I was driving a big block truck! :thumbup: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted December 28, 2014 No problems mate, If I was going to run BBF in my 70 Mach 1 I would do this mod. A lot cheaper then running coilover suspension setup, do you still live in QLD Ash? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted December 28, 2014 No, I live down near Newcastle in NSW. The truck itself I purchased in Brisbane. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted December 30, 2014 Ok nice done a lot of work around Newcastle when I was living in Sydney, good luck with your build Ash. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted January 3, 2015 I put a standard head from a 390 next to a new Edelbrock head to compare any differences. I'll use the stock head to dummy up. The new alloy heads can stay safe tucked away. I remember reading somewhere that the Edelbrock heads were wider pushing the headers out. But after measuring them up, this was proved wrong. There was no difference. In fact I could only find one difference and that was the port position. The exhaust manifold bolt holes are in the same position on both heads so the 390 head will work fine to dummy up with. Here you can see the post position difference. I cut out some cardboard to act as a gasket and dropped a head on. It was soon apparent that notching the tops of the shock towers as seen in the link posted earlier was not going to do a lot with the FE engine. Just as Hybrid thought it would be with his car. I put a piece of tape to mark the UCS bolt holes. The top of the tape is in line with the top of the bolt holes Here you can see just how close the heads are and this is with the hacked brace on the towers. I think if I were to shape them to notch it lower than the previous examples, the area within the tape I've placed, taking it back flush with the UCA mount, then it would give considerate extra space. The lower piece of tape is still the piece marking the UCA holes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted January 3, 2015 Ash are you going to do the 1 inch Shelby drop , that would give a bit more room to fiddle with the towers mate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted January 4, 2015 No, I'm not. Pretty sure my 69 is stock ride height. And to be honest, if I could raise it without it looking stupid, I would. I need the ride height for our local roads. They are disgraceful. And half the time when I drive anywhere, I have to drive on dirt as they are doing roadworks. I'm about 60-70k's from from the next real town so every time I go anywhere there is a lot of crap to drive on. The council even has a webpage explaining why they are so bad. It's also why you wont see any low profile wheels and tyres on any of my cars. http://www.dungog.nsw.gov.au/news/494893-why-are-our-roads-so-bad- It would have been nice to do the Shelby drop to gain that bit of extra space. I wonder if I were to do the drop and then space out the UCA from the inside of the shock tower to maintain the original height, if that would work? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted January 4, 2015 I mocked up the top loader mount with some dowels in line with the T56 mount position. There is a little bit of sag in the dowel but I couldn't find anything else that I had laying around to use. It's just to give an idea. I lifted the trans up until it hit the cross member. There is still stacks of room around the firewall with only the vent tube just touching. Photos from left to right. I put a straight edge on the bottom of the top loader mount to measure to the centre of the output shaft. I got 105mm. and 380mm from the mount bolt centres to the end of output shaft With a straight edge on the top of the trans crossmember, low and behold, I got 105mm. Yes, it is not accurate but it just went to show that it is close and should work with no mods to the floor pan but definitely some to the cross member. So I think I will remove and reposition the cross member inline with the T56 mount. There will also be a little more clearance here for the cross member over that section of the extension housing but I think I will section out the middle and replate it higher for some more room. It'll also mean the stock e-brake cable wont work but that got me thinking of going to a floor mounted unit instead. I don't know about others but doing hill starts in a manual car with a foot operated e-brake sucks. Especially in one that has a grumpy engine and a very on/off clutch. And for those who have RHD stangs, it's near impossible. It was the weirdest feeling yet when I drove my mates RHD 70 Mach 1 with a grumpy 393C. To take your right foot off the brake pedal to push the e-brake on is not convenient. I also measured the shifter location in comparison to the top loader and it looks like this T56 will move the shifter centre back 125mm. While I was there thinking about what to do, I also considered the speedo. T56 has no spot for a speedo drive as the car used the front right ABS sender for a pulse. Aside from setting up some type of magnetic pickup and then going to an electronic speedo unit or a gear drive to drive the cable, the only other option I can think of is a GPS speedo. Something like this looks good and would be cheaper and easier than a magnetic pick up and definitely cheaper than swapping out the rear extension housing and output shaft. Just not sure on the legalities here in Aus. http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR338-GPS-01/1/GPS-Speedometer-Gauge-120mph Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted January 4, 2015 I am converting my foot operated e brake to a trans tunnel hand operated brake. http://www.amazon.com/MUSTANG-PARKING-BRAKE-ASSEMBLY-1987-1998/dp/B000O0I70G Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ash 145 Report post Posted January 4, 2015 Thanks for the link, Mike. I may have to get a LHD version as the RHD ones we have here are obviously mirrored. But I may be able to adapt one that I have from a Falcon. Will need to dissect it and see first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites