Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 4, 2014 Removed the rest of the r/s torque box. Did a rough cut of the r/s toe board, now I just have to do a fine cut with the cut off wheel & figure how much or little of the r/s outer frame rail section I need to replace. I did notice on the repo toe board it has a flange pointing down where it would weld to the inner rocker, but the torque box will be in the way so I will need to trim the flange off & just weld it to the back of the torque box the way the factory had it done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JTG 10 Report post Posted April 7, 2014 I flipped my flange over so it was pointing up instead of down and then welded the toeboard to the rocker using the flange. It was annoying. I'm sure either way works fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 9, 2014 Now that I have gotten all of the r/s torque box out I discovered some more rot, not bad but it was hidden by the flange of the torque box. The rot spot is at the lower front corner of the r/s inner cowl panel just in front of the vent opening. Time to fab a piece to repair this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JTG 10 Report post Posted April 10, 2014 It's always interesting how and where these cars rust. when I did my PS torque box the cowl area was fine but the inner rocker below it needed to be replaced. Go figure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossed 10 Report post Posted April 12, 2014 It's always interesting how and where these cars rust. when I did my PS torque box the cowl area was fine but the inner rocker below it needed to be replaced. Go figure. X's two on this. It's weird they rust in unpredictable places sometimes. My Dad's 70 MACH 1 had rust in typical places that would lead you to think "well if that's rusted then I know this area will be toast" but that wasn't the case at all. Toe boards, windshield channel, front torque boxes, front floor pans, had rust. The cowl looked great :confused1: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Started drilling the few rear spot welds that hold the inner & outer sections of the frame rail together so I can cut out the rotted section. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 16, 2014 In response to a request from 69stanggt who needed the hole placement for the vinyl top trim on a 69 Coupe I am going to post pics & dimensions here in case anyone else needs the info. First my 69 Coupe was a Metuchen, NJ built car built on 11/25/68. 1st pic, general hole placement 2nd pic, hole placement where molding wraps around back of roof to meet the wide bottom black rear window trim. 3rd pic, shows how I laid out the tape measure to measure out the hole placement. 4th pic, 1st hole 13 1/8" back from edge of quarter panel & up 1 1/4" from top quarter panel ridge line. 5th pic, 2nd hole is back 7 3/4" from 1st hole & up 1 1/2" from top quarter panel ridge line. 6th pic, 3rd hole is back 8 11/16" from 2nd hole, & up 1 7/8" from top quarter panel ridge line. 7th pic, 4th hole is 6 5/16" back from the 3rd hole & 2 1/8" up from the top quarter panel ridge line. Hole diameters are 3/8". 8th pic, the three holes that the small molding fits into that runs back to meet the wide lower molding the wraps around the outside of the rear window. This pic shows how I laid the tape measure to measure the distances to each hole. 1st hole, closest to the rear window is 3 3/8" 2nd hole, middle hole is 6" 3rd hole, farthest from rear window is 7 13/16" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69stanggt 10 Report post Posted April 16, 2014 (edited) Mike-- Thanks for the photos and dimensions. To clarify-- are your hole measurements to hole centerlines, or just to the hole edges?? I was surprised to see the factory holes were that large. I haven't yet determined if the project coupe had a vinyl top added later or if it was a factory vinyl top car that had the holes filled at some later time. My guess is someone added an aftermarket vinyl top without holes since there's no evidence of factory holes that we can find. Again- thanks. Jim Edited April 16, 2014 by 69stanggt clarification Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 16, 2014 Jim, The holes are measured center line to center line. Sorry about the fuzzy pics, I was trying to do it in the garage with a drop light & could not get a good focus with the camera. Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69stanggt 10 Report post Posted April 17, 2014 Mike-- JT and I worked on the vinyl top molding hole locations this afternoon. We used your dimensions to get started and then did minor adjustments to get good lines with the moldings slid into stud holes. We also went with smaller-- around 1/4"-- holes and then adjusted with a rat tail file. After setting all four pieces and the lower rear window molding in place, it was looking good. Thanks for your help with this. Forgot my camera again. I need to get some fresh pics with the car all in primer. JT is very pleased with how straight the body panels are now. We bought the Winter Blue paint and satin black paint this week. So we're getting close now. I'm looking forward to seeing the coupe in Winter Blue. Again-- Thank you, sir! Jim:thumbup1: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted May 20, 2014 After work today I spent some time in the garage & cut out the rotted rear section of the r/s outer frame rail. I have to clean the inside & rust proof it with Master Series silver. I cut a patch piece from a repo outer frame rail on the right, & the rotted piece I cut out is on the left. Notice how much has rotted away from the l/s lower rear section. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted May 25, 2014 Today I drilled the pilot holes to begin drilling out the spot welds for the r/s floor support which was also rotted out which I need to remove before I can repair the r/s outer frame rail. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted May 29, 2014 Today after work I did some serious work on removing the r/s floor support. I finished drilling out the spot welds holding it to the floor, & I had to slice it down the middle & in half so I could access the 5 spot welds that hold the cross member to the floor support. All that is left of the r/s floor support is the front inner section. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69stanggt 10 Report post Posted May 29, 2014 Crafty metal surgeon at work. Looks like your removing all the cancerous material and prepping for new metal "bonding". Prognosis is getting better and better!! :yes: You're doing well Mike. Keep it up! A milestone of sorts, but now all the reassembly is needed in cramped quarters. JT done good!! jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JTG 10 Report post Posted May 29, 2014 Wow, that's a lot of work in that area. It will look good with new metal! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted May 31, 2014 Removed the rest of the r/s floor support. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted August 9, 2014 WOW!! it has been 2 months since posting anything about the car. I took some time off because it was just to darn hot to be crawling around under the car, but started doing some more yesterday. I have some grinding to do on the engine compartment side of the r/s frame rail & then fit the new floor support. This weekend will be cooler so pics should be coming. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted September 6, 2014 Update; while grinding the engine compartment side of the rear part of the frame rail I found more bad metal so I ordered & just received this frame rail patch piece where the frame rail meets the firewall. The weather should be cooling off this week so I should be getting back out in the garage & getting back to work on finishing up the sheet metal work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JTG 10 Report post Posted September 8, 2014 Good luck. I was working on my car Friday and it was damn hot in the garage. I think you're right, it will be better this week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 11, 2014 I got some time today & spent a couple hours out in the garage to work on the Mustang. I trimmed the floor, & cut a patch piece for the floor & the cowl side panel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 16, 2014 Spent a little time in the garage today & cut out the rotted section of the rear section of the r/s front frame rail that was behind the floor support. Took the patch piece I bought & cut it to fit the rear section of the r/s front frame rail. I just have to do some finish grinding to the patch & the frame rail to get the patch to a perfect fit & then I will weld it in. I also test fit the new floor support. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 18, 2014 Did some finish grinding & test fitted the r/s front frame rail patch, fits good. Now I just have to weld it in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hblair 10 Report post Posted November 19, 2014 Mike you're doing a lot of work brother. Keep at it. Maybe someday we'll be driving these things around! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 19, 2014 Mike you're doing a lot of work brother. Keep at it. Maybe someday we'll be driving these things around! Thanks, that is the plan. I am hoping to have the metal work done by the spring time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 19, 2014 Today I got in some garage time & I cut out an area in the r/s cowl side panel just in front of the side vent opening that had some rust damage & also got beat up when removing a section of the toe board & old torque box. I also started drilling the holes for the spot welds in the r/s front floor support to get it ready to weld in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
