Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 21, 2014 Finished drilling out the spot welds on the l/s front inner fender panel & removed it. Now that the inner fender panel is out I ground down the l/s shock tower front upper flange, & traced out the patch on some sheet metal stock. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
backmarker 10 Report post Posted February 22, 2014 Looking good. :thumbup1: I have the same spots to replace on mine. The rest of my inner fender panels are ok except for big spot on top where they join like yours. I was thinking of just patching the spots. Do you think it would work to just patch both layers with a thicker piece of steel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 23, 2014 Looking good. :thumbup1:I have the same spots to replace on mine. The rest of my inner fender panels are ok except for big spot on top where they join like yours. I was thinking of just patching the spots. Do you think it would work to just patch both layers with a thicker piece of steel? Look at my post above #223 where I cut away the top of the rear inner fender panel to get at the shock tower upper flange that was rotted. After I fixed it I made a patch for the top of the rear inner fender panel & welded it in. Look at my pic below you can see where I cut away the top front section of the rear inner fender panel to get at the rot. I will make a patch for that spot too. Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 23, 2014 I cut the rot out of the front of the l/s shock tower upper flange & made a patch. After that I cut out the rot in the rear of the upper flange & made a patch for there. Welded in both patches. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 24, 2014 Today I temp installed the l/s front inner fender panel with some sheet metal screws to check how the fender bolt holes lined up with the repo inner fender panel, all looked good time to weld it in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 26, 2014 Drilled all the spot weld holes in both front inner fender panels & re-installed them all ready to be welded in this weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 1, 2014 Started welding in the r/s front inner fender panel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwye0627 44 Report post Posted March 2, 2014 What brand is that inner fender panel? That looks really nice!!! No Wrinkles!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 2, 2014 http://www.cjponyparts.com/battery-apron-repair-kit-1964-1973/p/BARK-V/ I purchased it from CJ Pony Parts as the battery apron kit part # - BARK3, with the apron, battery tray, & the hold down, on the bill it doesn't list a manufacturer for the parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted March 2, 2014 Nice work there mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwye0627 44 Report post Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks Mike, I was afraid to buy that one from CJPP because in their photo the apron appears very wrinkled. But yours looks beautiful!!! I think I will buy that one too!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks Mike,I was afraid to buy that one from CJPP because in their photo the apron appears very wrinkled. But yours looks beautiful!!! I think I will buy that one too!!! The one in the pic is from a 65/66, you have to click on the drop down menu bar to get the 69/70 & then look at the pic because it changes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 9, 2014 Today I decided to do a little wrenching on the Coupe today. I received a new export brace from a member here so I figured I would see how far off the shock towers are & they are back & in by about 1/2-3/4" in & back. I also found the shock tower brace on the drivers side has a small bend in it & approx. 2" crack in it at the bend point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 11, 2014 I had to straighten the lip of the cowl where the shock tower braces bolt to, it was bent down a little not allowing me to bolt up the export brace. Bolted the export brace to the 4 holes on the lip of the cowl to see just how far the shock towers have sagged in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trinitys 134 Report post Posted March 12, 2014 Man, I just went through your whole build! Awesome work. I have that same welder....nice little welder for this kind of thing. I'm going to end up redoing a floor in my trunk, rear tail light panel and door skins sooner or later. its nice to see this and good inspiration too! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 12, 2014 Man, I just went through your whole build! Awesome work. I have that same welder....nice little welder for this kind of thing. I'm going to end up redoing a floor in my trunk, rear tail light panel and door skins sooner or later. its nice to see this and good inspiration too! Thank you. The welder is awesome, it has done everything I have needed it to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 14, 2014 Today I had some free time after work so I decided to pull the intake, valve covers, & loosened all the head bolts. I am going to pull the engine on Sat. I want to jack up the f/e of the car without the weight of the engine in it to see if I can get the shock towers to return to their normal position so I can bolt up the export brace so it will keep them where they belong before cutting out the torque boxes to replace them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 14, 2014 Pulled both cylinder heads & I am ready to pull the motor tomorrow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 16, 2014 Pulled the engine today. Mounted on the stand awaiting tear down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 30, 2014 Had my over head retractable drop light fall on the front windshield breaking it. I was goig to replace it any way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 30, 2014 Started removing the r/s torque box & found some frame rot under the torque box. Time to order more sheet metal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 2, 2014 Had a visit from the UPS guy, he brought me yet another piece of sheet metal. This time it is the r/s outer frame rail. I need about 6-8" of the wide end to repair the frame rail. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted April 2, 2014 Looks like you might need to replace the floor support as well. Mine wasn't quite that bad, but it can be fixed. I don't know if you are having to put any of the floor pan in, it would be fun to replace that floor support from the bottom side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 2, 2014 Yea the one on the pass side is shot, I was planning on replacing both of them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 2, 2014 Todays progress, removed the rest of the front of the r/s torque box. Started to remove the r/s lower portion of the toe board which will take care of the rest of the torque box. Looks like I will only have to replace the right half of the toe board that has the back part of the torque box welded to it. It has a rot hole in it that started from up near the heater box & it ran down to the floor seam which was probably from a leaky heater core. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
