aslanefe 333 Report post Posted August 20, 2019 On 8/18/2019 at 8:14 PM, Vicfreg said: Yeah, man. Great feeling when you get the shifter in!! I am also using the CVF Pulleys, I really like the setup. Very high quality. That is just the steering wheel from a later truck right; not the whole column. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted August 21, 2019 20 hours ago, aslanefe said: That is just the steering wheel from a later truck right; not the whole column. Correct, it is the stock 69 Mustang steering column & the steering wheel from a early 80's Bronco IIRC. I purchased the steering wheel from a member here danno & he showed me how to modify it to fit the Mustang steering column. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted October 5, 2019 Today was a productive day, I installed the shortened Explorer aluminum driveshaft, made the fuel filter bracket, & started working on the drivers side sub frame connector. 1 Grabber70Mach reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 6, 2019 MIke, that driveshaft looks good. So, you had someone cut an balance it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted October 6, 2019 10 hours ago, Vicfreg said: MIke, that driveshaft looks good. So, you had someone cut an balance it? Thanks Vic, I had a local driveshaft shop cut the driveshaft shorter & then re-balance it for $120.00, it took 2 days to do. 1 mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copb8 97 Report post Posted October 9, 2019 On 4/1/2013 at 4:45 PM, Mike65 said: I cleaned & repainted the kick panels. Can you tell me what you did to clean and prep and what paint you used to paint them? Mine look pretty sketchy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted October 9, 2019 I used a non oily fast drying cleaner/solvent to remove the dirt & grime & then repainted them with SEM semi gloss plastic paint I got from NPD. I did not care about originality, I painted the metal lower dash, the kick panels & the Coupe rear seat metal interior panels all black. https://www.npdlink.com/product/interior-paint-flexible-spray-black-satin-non-metallic-for/141634?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dinterior%2Bdashboard%2Bpaint%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 If you want them the proper color IIRC it is a dark charcoal color. https://www.npdlink.com/product/interior-paint-flexible-spray-dark-charcoal-metallic-for/146355?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dinterior%2Bdashboard%2Bpaint%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 10, 2019 I use the SEM plastic painting products, they deliver amazing results. It is a multi step process but if you follow it, the parts come out great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted October 20, 2019 Today I finished welding up the drivers side sub frame connector. Here is a pic of the r/s & l/s connectors. 2 Grabber70Mach and mikee reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mystang 11 Report post Posted October 26, 2019 I am looking for original style steel 2-grove 3-bolt crank pulley to add power steering to my 69 vert. Anyone have there old one laying around? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted October 29, 2019 Several 4 bolts, but no 3 bolt ones.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 4, 2020 I could not find a suitable place to mount the ignition box under the dash & the more I looked at it on the drivers side inner fender panel I was not liking it there. I made a bracket for it & mounted it to the back of the passengers side shock tower to the bolts that hold the coil spring cover on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 5, 2020 Hey Mike. I thought about that exact location. I was somewhat concerned about the heat from the headers impacting the ignition box. I guess it looks closer in the picture than it really is. Guess you could put a small piece of aluminum angle below it as a heat shield. Guess you will get some run time on it and let us know.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 5, 2020 It is an optical illusion, it is about 6-7" away from the headers. The headers are down near the frame rail & the ignition box is up near the top of the shock tower. I have the heavy duty HTC coated headers so I do not know how much heat they will give off. I was also thinking about making a heat shield. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unilec 57 Report post Posted February 6, 2020 Apart from heat off the headers, I would also be worried about water or moisture getting into the electronic components. Can you find an aluminum or plastic box with a decent seal to mount it in? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 7, 2020 MIke, that makes sense. Mine is on the other side of the shock tower, up front. Unilec, it is like an MSD box, it is designed to be under the hood, but inside would be obviously better...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unilec 57 Report post Posted February 8, 2020 12 hours ago, Vicfreg said: MIke, that makes sense. Mine is on the other side of the shock tower, up front. Unilec, it is like an MSD box, it is designed to be under the hood, but inside would be obviously better...... Yeah, you would think that, but any time electronics is exposed to moisture, either from washing the engine and bay or just driving in the wet, it quite easy for the ingress of water to affect the electronic components. Encasing these components in some type of housing is always a good idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 18, 2020 Due to concerns from members here & on a couple other forums about the ignition box being to close to the headers I ended up moving it back to its original spot in front of the l/s shock tower on the l/s front inner fender panel. Since the drive train is in & hooked up I turned my attention back to the wiring. I started hooking up the wires from the ignition box to the coil, the distributor, the wires from the AAW harness to the distributor, water temp sender, oil pressure sender, & to the temp sender for the electric cooling fans. I also hooked up the heater hoses. 1 Caseyrhe reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted February 19, 2020 Looks good I think in the long run it'll be better off in the newest location. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 20, 2020 Yeah, looking good! Let's talk next week about the wiring, made some comments on your other post. Can't remember if you are running the FiTech. But there are some wires that need to be physically separated to avoid some noise issues. I am really happy with the Pertronix Box. Easy to program, small, and seems to work great. I will be at the Jersey Shore this year in July, I plan to come see the car if that is ok. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 20, 2020 20 hours ago, Vicfreg said: I will be at the Jersey Shore this year in July, I plan to come see the car if that is ok. That would be great, I would like to meet you, talk Mustangs & have a couple beers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 9, 2020 This past weekend I picked up a 95 amp 3G alternator to upgrade the charging system. Even with the 1987 standard rotation water pump I used the stock alternator brackets & it mounted up fine using these brackets, Cylinder head bracket - D00E-10A336-A2, Alternator bracket - D00E-10156-A, Larger offset adjuster bracket - D3AE-10145-DA, & the stock alternator spacer between the alternator & the cylinder head bracket. The only thing I needed to add was a 3/4" spacer the the lower bolt of the main alternator bracket, see bottom pic. I used a Dayco 41" serpentine belt # - 5060410. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted March 11, 2020 Mike, I noticed something that was the exact same thing I did on mine, I had to move my dipstick. and put the dipstick mounting bracket/tab and bolt behind the alternator spacer....see pic below. I went to a Lokar billet one Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 11, 2020 Vic, that was the picture I took right after installing the alternator & I just stuck the dipstick in the hole in the front cover so nothing could get in. I have the aluminum bracket that bolts to the cylinder head & the dip stick is bolted to a threaded hole next to where the alternator is bolted to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted March 11, 2020 Oh, good. Nice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
