Mike65's 69 Coupe build

[Vicfreg 771]

Nice... looks like you are getting close to the end....

[Mike65 475]

6 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Nice... looks like you are getting close to the end....

Thanks Vic, it is getting closer. I dropped the engine off at the re-builder this past Friday. Today I installed the ignition switch cylinder, & an intermittent wiper switch assembly from a 1985 Ford truck I purchased from a member on this site

[Vicfreg 771]

What is going on with your engine?   Stock re-build?

[Mike65 475]

21 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

What is going on with your engine?   Stock re-build?

No. Back in December I purchased a set of Ford Performance M-6049-X306 heads w/1.6 Ford Performance roller rockers & a Ford Performance M-6250-B303 cam to go on the short block. He is going to hot tank the block & have it magnafluxed, then he is replacing the rings, bearings, freeze plugs. I do not remember if he is replacing the pistons or not, but he did say he has to mill the heads slightly to make sure they are flat. He claims by his calculation with what he is doing to the engine it "should" make approximately 325HP.

[Vicfreg 771]

Oh right, nice.   I have a '95 roller cam in my '68 with similar equipment, also using the B303.  The Ford Racing crate motor with the same specs makes around 340 HP.   What kind of intake are you going to use?   I have an Edelbrock Performer RPM on my '68.  I am hearing from the fuel injection users that a single plane intake is better to use, and that some have actually modified their intake manifold divider plates on the dual plane intakes.  I am not doing that for now...

 

 

[Mike65 475]

I have an Edelbrock Performer RPM for it already. Is your 68 EFI or Carbureted?. It sounds like the engine I am having built & the one in your 68 are very similar.

[Vicfreg 771]

My '68 is carbureted, Holley 570 Street Avenger..  

[Mike65 475]

I have been sick with the flu all week & only started feeling better today so since I am at a standstill waiting on the engine builder I spent a little time in the garage to finish up the "custom" r/s Mach-1 clock dash panel for my Coupe. Here is the finished product.

The woodgrain was peeling so I decided to remove it all & paint it satin black to match the l/s dash panel.

[Vicfreg 771]

Cool. How did you remove the woodgrain?  With the original stuff, that is not so easy.

[Mike65 475]

3 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Cool. How did you remove the woodgrain?  With the original stuff, that is not so easy.

I peeled off as much as I could, & sanded off the rest. I took the 2 pieces apart & used medium, then fine sand paper on a palm sander.

[Mike65 475]

I got an aluminum driveshaft for the Coupe from a JY out of a 2000 Explorer 2WD 4 door 4.0 V-6. It is the same length as the stock driveshaft. Now I just need the replace the u joints & install the T-5 yoke.

 

[Vicfreg 771]

Mike, cool. What is the dimension from u-joint center line to centerline on the driveshaft.  That front yoke may work.  I have one like that on my T-5.   

 

 

[Mike65 475]

Vic the yoke on the Explorer driveshaft is to small to fit the T-5, so I will use the T-5 yoke. The driveshaft is 52 3/8" end to end, & from the u joint center line to the center of the driveshaft is 25 3/8".

 

[MAC390 327]

Getting close now, you have done so much to the car, well done.

[Vicfreg 771]

Mike, thanks.  So it is 50-3/4” from U joint centerline to U joint centerline?   

[Mike65 475]

18 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

Mike, thanks.  So it is 50-3/4” from U joint centerline to U joint centerline?   

Yes Vic, the best I could measure by myself is 50 3/4" from u joint center line to u joint center line. BTW if anyone is interested I used carpart.com to located a JY within an hours drive that had a 4 door 2WD Explorer aluminum drive shaft which I thought would be impossible to find here in NJ. All you have to do is enter what year vehicle, what vehicle, what part,  your state, & your zip code & it finds the part you are looking for if there is one in your state. Here is the link.

http://www.car-part.com/

[Mike65 475]

On 3/3/2018 at 3:38 PM, MAC390 said:

Getting close now, you have done so much to the car, well done.

Thanks MAC390, it has been a lot of work. This week I soaked both of the u joints with PB Blaster & was able to remove both of them with a punch & a light duty sledge hammer. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong u joints so I had to return them to Summit Racing & get the right ones. The T-5 yoke, the driveshaft, & the yoke in the 9" rear all take the Moog 1330 u joints.

[Vicfreg 771]

Mike, thanks for the dimensions.   I would love to use a stock aluminum driveshaft, but I don’t think the dimensions will work out. 

I did experiment with this on my ‘68, but eventually got a driveshaft made.  

I recall that the late model drive shafts use a snap ring to hold in the u-joint caps, just keep and eye on that when you mix the late model shaft with the stock rear u-bolts 

[Vicfreg 771]

Thanks for the link as well, that will come in handy.  

[Mike65 475]

Installed the new 1330 u joints in the front & rear of the aluminum Explorer driveshaft & installed the T-5 yoke.

 

[Vicfreg 771]

Hey Mike....how is the engine coming....still at the engine shop?

[Mike65 475]

Hi Vic, The engine is still at the shop, I am planning on calling him on Monday after work.

[Mike65 475]

Today was beautiful weather (70°) so I rolled the Mustang out of the garage & finished running the rear brake lines on the rear differential to the rear wheel cylinders.

[Mike65 475]

Today was another beautiful day so I started working on the Lokar parking brake cables to hook up the center mount parking brake.

[Mike65 475]

Hooked up the Lokar parking brake cables from the rear drum brakes to the center mount parking brake handle assembly.