TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 15, 2012 This car started out as my fathers and mine. We worked on it together before he was diagnosed with cancer. he had a friend of his do all the body and metal work and we would do the mechanical work. his friend finished the body work and the car was ready for paint but my father got sick and passed away. his friend said he wasnt going to finish the car bc "the deal died with your father". So the car sat for years and as time went on i would tinker a little here and there on it but never really got deep into it. i got engaged and my fiance knew a guy that owned a body shop (Mike). i talked to him and told him the story about the old body guy. Mike told me he would let me bring car in and finish all the body work myself. that week we towed the car in and i began to work on it. As i got the car on the lift i started to notice a lot of hacking done by my fathers friend. the more and more i dug into it i found out that he did a HORRIBLE job on everything. i decided at that point to strip the car of all the primer he used and bring it down to bare metal. as i was stripping it i found out that he didnt replace any of the metal that was rusted, he simply fiberglassed over it and used bondo to cover the seams where the fiberglass and rust met. there was a dent on the quarter panel, he didnt bother pulling the dent out, just filled it in with bondo and smoothed it out. after a few weeks in i gutted the complete car, stripped the car of all the primer/bondo that was on it, replaced both floor pans and about to get some epoxy primer on the floors and undercarriage this week. I will post pics as much as i can, since this is my first build i am always forgetting to stop what i am doing and take progress pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 15, 2012 Just pulled into the shop Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted January 15, 2012 post some pics. it's a hobby, take your time and take some pics. you'll be able to later reflect on what you have accomplished. i've lost 6 months of pics (items not saved to photobucket) that still irks me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 15, 2012 Heres what the floors looked like Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 15, 2012 more floor pics. between the fiberglass, rivets and screws i am surprised the floors stayed in as long as they did. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 15, 2012 new floors in Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 door skin removed, patches in the corners and primed. getting ready to weld in the power lock actuators. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 Doors didnt need as much work as the floors thankfully. have to finish welding in the brackets to hold the actuator in tomorrow and then strip the other side of the door, give it a coat of primer and weld on the door skin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 taillight housing. stripped, primed, new seals and sequential LEDs installed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 Sequential LED module soldered up. i got a universal one for 50 and wired each taillight up the same way, except the directions they blink sequentially. the kit had a problem where it would reset itself when i had the brakes pressed and turns on so i had to bypass the brake harness part of the module. easy fix and worked perfectly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 old hood needed to go, to much rust. got this one off a coworker. he had a small circular hole cut in the middle hidden under the hood scoop. i got a shaker hole te mplate and cut out the shape, patched the holes where the turn signals went and then smoothed out everything. it is still sitting like this but its ready for primer now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 In these pics you can see the rear valance. I took the lip that hangs down at the end and bent it inward. i did this so that when you wash/wax the car that spot doesnt collect any dirt or other stuff. I had to replace the lip in the rear where rear window molding goes into. which i was back there i welded the panel between the trunk and rear window. i am going to flatten that out and make it look seemless one i am done. In the rear taillight extensions i made a bracket that the extension sits on. i drilled holes on every 1 inch on the extension itself. when i go to mount the extensions i am going to inject the holes with metal filler and when it dries i am going to remove the seem where the extension meets the 1/4 panel. I am going to also remove the seem where the front headlight buckets mount but i havent gotten up to that yet so i have no game plan. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 This is the drivers side rear 1/4 panel. there was a dent in it and the body guy decided to fill in the dent with bondo rather than bang the dent out. he also tried to make the curve for the wheel well area and it is all wavy and crooked. I am cutting both rear 1/4s out and replacing the skins. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 alot of work but it looks like its coming along well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SM69Mach 68 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 Looks like you are making some good progress! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 I'm really liking your thinking on this project. Love the mods! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 25, 2012 Thanks. This is a learning project for me. I never worked with welders and grinders so I am learning from my mistakes as they come. Trust me the mistakes are coming lol. I am doing a few custom mods but i am trying to keep the car as original looking as possible. I am removing a few of the seams on the outside and all keyholes but that's about as crazy as I plan to get. For the interior i am reinstalling my double din nag/DVD player but this time I am making a custom mounting bracket that will hold that and the ac control panel. The way I had it before worked but looks cheap. I also just got a 05 Mustang console and ordered the Classic Auto Air elite air condition unit so that will be the first thing to install once the floors are undercoated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 26, 2012 door lock actuators are in. ready for the door skins tomorrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted January 26, 2012 door lock actuators are in. ready for the door skins tomorrow Menace, I have a few questions, In your last pic where you show the door lock acuator installed with the inside (door panel side) of the door facing away from you the 2" wide piece of the door structure that runs from the front to the back of the door assembley where the door skin is spot welded to in the window opening area, how did you get the piece of the door skin loose from the spot welds?. What brand door skins are you using?. What brand door lock acuators did you use?. Any info you can provide would be a BIG help. TIA. Mike. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted January 26, 2012 What I did to remove the door skin was I took a grinding stone and ran it across the edge where the skin folds over itself. I did this but when I got to the top area that you are talking about what I did was just cut the skin straight across leaving the old door skin attached to the spot you are talking about. Then with everything out of the way I took the cut off wheel and angled it so it went between that bracket and the frame so I was able to grind the spot welds. Once the welds were thin enough I took 2 long needle nose pliers and grabbed the old door skin with 1 and that bracket with the other and kept wiggling till the welds broke free. He careful not to pry and wiggle to much, I accidentally broke the whole bracket off on one door and had to reweld it back on. I bought Dii skins. I am going to weld them on tonight so I will let you know how the fitment of them is. I bought Electric-Life power door lock kit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted March 4, 2012 all primed up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted March 4, 2012 seam sealed and then everything was sprayed with U-Pol bedliner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted March 4, 2012 18x9 wheels on all 4 corners. the fronts needed a 1" spacer and the rears needed a .5" spacer. I also put MustangSteves 2010 mustang brake adapter brackets on. I am running 245/40/18 up front and 275/40/18 in the rear. with a 1" spacer in the rear i would be easily able to fit a 10" wheel and get a 315 back there. maybe in a few years when i get bored of these rims i will sell and upgrade. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted March 4, 2012 drivers side quarter replaced Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheMenace 10 Report post Posted March 4, 2012 Passenger side quarter replaced. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
