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etel64

69 door window glass alignment in channel

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The way I did it & this was about 30 yrs ago, the glue/epoxy I used was a 2 part glue that came in 2 strips looked like & had the consistancy of clay. I would mix the 2 parts together & flatten them out & lay them in the window channel & then set the window in with the window rolled most of the way up & closed the door. (BTW the door panel is off) Then I would raise the window the rest of the way up until it was in the full up position centering the window front to back as needed as I was raising it. The glue/epoxy had a long cure time so it was possible to move the window in the track. It had said to get to full cure it would have to sit for 24 hrs. I believe I got it from an auto parts store. You could also try to contact a glass installer & see what they would use. Hope that helps.

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Check my response to your earlier question here:

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7596&page=2

 

Many people do it like Mike65 described and it works. But if you use the proper shims and the measurements from Glazier's Mustang Barn template you'll be aligned ok even if you do it off the car.

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Check my response to your earlier question here:

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7596&page=2

 

Many people do it like Mike65 described and it works. But if you use the proper shims and the measurements from Glazier's Mustang Barn template you'll be aligned ok even if you do it off the car.

Hey Raven, where did you get the Rubber pieces?

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Check my response to your earlier question here:

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7596&page=2

 

Many people do it like Mike65 described and it works. But if you use the proper shims and the measurements from Glazier's Mustang Barn template you'll be aligned ok even if you do it off the car.

Hey Raven, where did you get the Rubber pieces from?

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Hey Raven, where did you get the Rubber pieces from?

 

I cut them from some strips of rubber that came with either my convertible top or the top weatherstripping (I don't remember which). They were included to shim the convertible section for a tight fit. I think they're about 3/32" thick.

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I cut them from some strips of rubber that came with either my convertible top or the top weatherstripping (I don't remember which). They were included to shim the convertible section for a tight fit. I think they're about 3/32" thick.

 

Alright thanks alot!

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Just reglued my 69 coupe windows. The old adhesive came loose from the glass and stayed bonded tight to the aluminum channel. I used the measurements in the link provided by 69RavenConv. To ensure the proper alignment of the window in the channel, I used a very sharp 1/2" wide chisel and scraped away intermittent areas of the old adhesive. I started by scraping away 1/2" of old adhesive, then left a 1/2" of old adhesive, then scraped away another 1/2", then left another !/2" etc. I did this to both sides of the channel. When I was done the glass still fit snuggly in the channel with the proper alignment. For "glue" I used the urethane that body shops use to install windshields. I filled the channel and pushed the glass into place. All the excess urethane came out the 1/2" grooves I had cut in the old adhesive. The urethane is thick and it did take quite a bit of muscle to "seat" the glass. Once the urethane had cured I used a razor blade to remove the excess.

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Hello everyone,

 

I have a 69 mustang mach one

 

I have upgraded to non glue in windows

 

here is the issue

 

when I roll the window down it gets very close t the inside of the channel and when the inside door panel is put in it is impossible to roll up because of friction that is caused.

 

The window comes nowhere close to the front edge of the felt on the outside of door.

 

Crazy

 

Yes , I have spent hours trying to adjust the bars etc. Its so tight on the inside portion of door

 

What gives?????

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Hello everyone,

 

I have a 69 mustang mach one

 

I have upgraded to non glue in windows

 

here is the issue

 

when I roll the window down it gets very close t the inside of the channel and when the inside door panel is put in it is impossible to roll up because of friction that is caused.

 

The window comes nowhere close to the front edge of the felt on the outside of door.

 

Crazy

 

Yes , I have spent hours trying to adjust the bars etc. Its so tight on the inside portion of door

 

What gives?????

 

A lot of people have had this issue when converting from glue in to bolt in. I did the conversion myself on my 69 simply because I was going to have to replace the hardware any way because half of the glue in stuff was missing.

I had the same issue as you and a problem also with the top of the window hitting the weather strip before it got anywhere near the lock striker plate. As you I did all the adjustments numerous times and seem like nothing would work. I finally had to actually gently bend the window guide rods slightly after marking where they needed to be bent a little. I never understood this because the 69 and 70 glass is suppose to have the same contour the only difference is one has the hole and the other doesn't. If you haven't done so do a search on this subject and there are threads with lots of good information that will help you. Good luck I hope you get it figured out. Dave

 

 

BTW I see you been a member for a while but never posted so welcome to the forum.

Edited by det0326

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I'll be glueing mine in shortly. Found the diagram for the for the guides and marked there location on the glass. So that'll get me close to where they need to be when I glue them. Gonna glue them in then roll the window up to make sure they in the right spot. But I have a issue I'm not sure about.

I removed all the old clay like epoxy out the holders. Now the window flops around, without anything adhesive in it. I'm wondering if I apply the glue and roll the window up, what if the holders are kicked to the inside or outside? I tried closing the gap at the top but there's no way of closing it at the bottom. What am I missing?

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I used thin rubber strips as shims to hold the glass centered while the adhesive dried (I personally believe you don't want the glass in contact with the metal) Here's the thread where I describe my technique. Others have had success using other methods but this worked for me;

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7596&highlight=rubber+shims&page=2

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