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MustangChuck

Torque box question

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I am about to replace (or pay someone to replace) the floor pans (with toe boards) and the front torque boxes on my 1969 Fastback. Mustangs Unlimited sells two piece and three piece boxes for the coupe/fastback and three piece boxes for the convertible (don't remember if they also have two piece). I have heard that the convertible boxes are the way to go (extra strength). My question is: Is there any difference in the installation of the convertible boxes into a fastback (over coupe/fastback boxes)? If not, then I'll go with those. If there is a difference, what are the necessary changes/modifications?

 

At the same time, I am planning to install (or pay to have installed) some TinMan subframe connectors. I think that they should be easier to install with the floors out and they can be welded into the front frame better with the open access.

 

(Not that it matters for my question, but I am also getting the taillight panel done as well. The car should look much better when all this body work is done.)

 

Thanks,

Chuck

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I am about to replace (or pay someone to replace) the floor pans (with toe boards) and the front torque boxes on my 1969 Fastback. Mustangs Unlimited sells two piece and three piece boxes for the coupe/fastback and three piece boxes for the convertible (don't remember if they also have two piece). I have heard that the convertible boxes are the way to go (extra strength). My question is: Is there any difference in the installation of the convertible boxes into a fastback (over coupe/fastback boxes)? If not, then I'll go with those. If there is a difference, what are the necessary changes/modifications?

 

At the same time, I am planning to install (or pay to have installed) some TinMan subframe connectors. I think that they should be easier to install with the floors out and they can be welded into the front frame better with the open access.

 

(Not that it matters for my question, but I am also getting the taillight panel done as well. The car should look much better when all this body work is done.)

 

Thanks,

Chuck

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I am about to replace (or pay someone to replace) the floor pans (with toe boards) and the front torque boxes on my 1969 Fastback.

 

I bought the canadian-manufactured T Boxes from NPD because these were supposed to be the best. The fit was not even close and was off by at least a 1/2 inch. Unless you are getting original tooling, you are getting crap for your dollar. Be prepared to pay somebody a lot of money to make such stuff fit. That was my own personal experience.

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I am about to replace (or pay someone to replace) the floor pans (with toe boards) and the front torque boxes on my 1969 Fastback.

 

I bought the canadian-manufactured T Boxes from NPD because these were supposed to be the best. The fit was not even close and was off by at least a 1/2 inch. Unless you are getting original tooling, you are getting crap for your dollar. Be prepared to pay somebody a lot of money to make such stuff fit. That was my own personal experience.

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The dynacorn boxes are two piece (3 if you count the brace) they are the only way to go in my opinion (I just installed on in my 69 Mach) along with toe board repair. I found it to be a fun project and when I was finished it looks factory. Forget having to drill out an already assembled piece who needs the extra work...

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The dynacorn boxes are two piece (3 if you count the brace) they are the only way to go in my opinion (I just installed on in my 69 Mach) along with toe board repair. I found it to be a fun project and when I was finished it looks factory. Forget having to drill out an already assembled piece who needs the extra work...

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Can answer the vert question but it does not matter on tin man setup if floor out or in - pretty easy to do with floor in. Done a couple now and about 2 hour job at most for a novice (that knows how to weld). Muffler shop if you open the frame rail and predrill plug weld holes and clean up weld points could weld them in in less than an hour.

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Can answer the vert question but it does not matter on tin man setup if floor out or in - pretty easy to do with floor in. Done a couple now and about 2 hour job at most for a novice (that knows how to weld). Muffler shop if you open the frame rail and predrill plug weld holes and clean up weld points could weld them in in less than an hour.

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I was thinking with the floors out, the portion of the subframe connectors that gets inserted into the frame rail could be welded in better: along the top of the rail and at the forward-most edge. You cannot get to those with the floors in.

 

M/C

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I was thinking with the floors out, the portion of the subframe connectors that gets inserted into the frame rail could be welded in better: along the top of the rail and at the forward-most edge. You cannot get to those with the floors in.

 

M/C

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Don't the convertible TB's have provisions for the inner rocker? Which you car does not have.... so, you would have a huge gap there. Get the 2 piece Dynacorn TB's since you are replacing the toeboards as well. Forget the 1 piece TB's. You will have to cut them apart to get them to fit, so you might as well buy them that way already.

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Bought my TB's from CJ Pony a while back. One peice, I think they were American Designers brand. Worked perfect for me. I guess now they offer "pieces" if you done have to replace the whole thing. But if your there...put a complete new one in. I don't know if the vert parts are different or better but the ones I had were heavy duty enough.

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i did my subframe connectors with floors out and it was easy, never had any experience with them otherwise. I got my floors from MLM and was VERY pleased with the fit. pans, toe boards, and set risers. my TB's were fine so i left them alone. your TB's are rusted through right? I wouldnt mess with them at all if not. mentality of "gonna fix that while im there!" is never good with original vs repo metal IMO

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Well, considering how bad the toe boards are, I can only assume that the torque boxes are also gone. I have not finished cutting out the toe boards, so I cannot say 100% for sure. I am sure the lower portions of them are at the least weakened. Thankfully, the frame rails look pretty good, just lots of surface rust.

 

M/C

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