miketyler 15 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 I guess I was a knaive to think that after reading all those horror stores about header fitment that mine would just slip right in. I just got thru sliding them up thru the bottom and dont see how these can work. The passenger side binds on the shock tower support and the top of header flange hits the tunnel support. Drivers side is even tighter with same issues including header flange. Since its a fixed flange, WTF couldnt they have clocked that around to have a flat on the top side? I mocked these up outsuide the car to be sure no issues with AOD but these would be a poor fit even if I was going back with FMX. Maybe I am being too critical? I have read a few other accounts that describe installation challenges but once installed, all is ok. Can anyone share their hopefully positive installation tips and experiences with the Ceramic Hooker Super Comp headers? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 I guess I was a knaive to think that after reading all those horror stores about header fitment that mine would just slip right in. I just got thru sliding them up thru the bottom and dont see how these can work. The passenger side binds on the shock tower support and the top of header flange hits the tunnel support. Drivers side is even tighter with same issues including header flange. Since its a fixed flange, WTF couldnt they have clocked that around to have a flat on the top side? I mocked these up outsuide the car to be sure no issues with AOD but these would be a poor fit even if I was going back with FMX. Maybe I am being too critical? I have read a few other accounts that describe installation challenges but once installed, all is ok. Can anyone share their hopefully positive installation tips and experiences with the Ceramic Hooker Super Comp headers? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) Well, I don't have any experience with your application. But, did you take a look at JBA and FPA headers? They may be the ticket. Are you using the factory motor mounts? On a side note, have you decided what you are going to do with your TV arm and shifter arm? You have the same levers that my trans has. I flipped my TV lever to a forward pull and put the selector lever in the up position. Because of the shift pattern on the AOD you won't be able to line up the four gears of the transmission with a three gear floor shifter no matter how hard you try. Bruce Edited August 30, 2011 by LindenBruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) Well, I don't have any experience with your application. But, did you take a look at JBA and FPA headers? They may be the ticket. Are you using the factory motor mounts? On a side note, have you decided what you are going to do with your TV arm and shifter arm? You have the same levers that my trans has. I flipped my TV lever to a forward pull and put the selector lever in the up position. Because of the shift pattern on the AOD you won't be able to line up the four gears of the transmission with a three gear floor shifter no matter how hard you try. Bruce Edited August 30, 2011 by LindenBruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) I have no personal experience either but I notice on the data sheet they state "fits 4V heads only". The base engine in the 70 Mach I was the 2V. Do you know which heads you've got? Obviously yours bolt up but maybe its a geometry thing. http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/6920HKR.pdf Edited August 30, 2011 by 69RavenConv Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) I have no personal experience either but I notice on the data sheet they state "fits 4V heads only". The base engine in the 70 Mach I was the 2V. Do you know which heads you've got? Obviously yours bolt up but maybe its a geometry thing. http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/6920HKR.pdf Edited August 30, 2011 by 69RavenConv Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 I installed mine by removing the eng mount thru bolts and raising the eng slightly to allow them to slip into position. After lowering eng back down slide the gasket into place and get all the bolts started into the head. Once that has been done I used a center out to end tightening pattern till torked. Yes they are a tight fit to some spots but they do fit. Now if they would have reworked the #5 and #8 tubes so they were not so low as to scrape they would be perfect. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 I installed mine by removing the eng mount thru bolts and raising the eng slightly to allow them to slip into position. After lowering eng back down slide the gasket into place and get all the bolts started into the head. Once that has been done I used a center out to end tightening pattern till torked. Yes they are a tight fit to some spots but they do fit. Now if they would have reworked the #5 and #8 tubes so they were not so low as to scrape they would be perfect. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 I have heard of the Hooker Super Comp headers hitting the floorboards. My Hooker Comp headers didn't hit the floorboards, but once the collector reducers were welded to my X-pipe the reducers did hit the trans tunnel/crossmember support. These darn headers actually point upwards beneath the floorpans. I fixed my issue with my engine drop mounts. Might be something you look in to. There is a group buy on the VMF right now for having them being laser cut and shipped to you, in case you are interested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 I have heard of the Hooker Super Comp headers hitting the floorboards. My Hooker Comp headers didn't hit the floorboards, but once the collector reducers were welded to my X-pipe the reducers did hit the trans tunnel/crossmember support. These darn headers actually point upwards beneath the floorpans. I fixed my issue with my engine drop mounts. Might be something you look in to. There is a group buy on the VMF right now for having them being laser cut and shipped to you, in case you are interested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 Actually, thinking about it more the drop mounts may not help unless you modify the trans crossmember. Dropping the front of the motor while keeping the same elevation at the transmission will only make them point more upwards. I read a few solutions of heating the pipes up to red and sticking a long pipe in the end of the header and bend it down. This will damage the finish on the headers from the heat as well as possibly crack them. The other option would be to cut off the flanges and reweld them on. These assume you are against buying a different set. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 Actually, thinking about it more the drop mounts may not help unless you modify the trans crossmember. Dropping the front of the motor while keeping the same elevation at the transmission will only make them point more upwards. I read a few solutions of heating the pipes up to red and sticking a long pipe in the end of the header and bend it down. This will damage the finish on the headers from the heat as well as possibly crack them. The other option would be to cut off the flanges and reweld them on. These assume you are against buying a different set. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 Look into a set of Doug's headers...i hear nothing but good things about them. On a side note i wonder if your running heads that are a bit takker...IE, AFR 205's would it help any, or make it worse>? Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 Look into a set of Doug's headers...i hear nothing but good things about them. On a side note i wonder if your running heads that are a bit takker...IE, AFR 205's would it help any, or make it worse>? Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 For what its worth, I put a 351C 4-V in my 68 fastback. there is not much difference in the engine compartment and clearnace between the 68 and 69. I have manual steering, Top loader 4-speed and manual disk brakes. I installed a set of Dougs engine swap headers in this set up and they fit like a glove. I had to only one tube that grazed the front edge of the bell housing so I had to "ding" it a "little to create an air gap. But the small dent is no more than a 3/32" deep. Outside of that, they fit perfect and cleared everything. I love 'em I choose the Dougs over the hooker super comp just becuase they were a few dollars more and i was expecting a good fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted August 30, 2011 For what its worth, I put a 351C 4-V in my 68 fastback. there is not much difference in the engine compartment and clearnace between the 68 and 69. I have manual steering, Top loader 4-speed and manual disk brakes. I installed a set of Dougs engine swap headers in this set up and they fit like a glove. I had to only one tube that grazed the front edge of the bell housing so I had to "ding" it a "little to create an air gap. But the small dent is no more than a 3/32" deep. Outside of that, they fit perfect and cleared everything. I love 'em I choose the Dougs over the hooker super comp just becuase they were a few dollars more and i was expecting a good fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 You know. I think Doug's make's a set for the 428FE as well, but I can't find them. A tube from each bank crosses over to the opposite side under the engine. Anyone know where I can get a set? Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 You know. I think Doug's make's a set for the 428FE as well, but I can't find them. A tube from each bank crosses over to the opposite side under the engine. Anyone know where I can get a set? Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Since Doug's is owned by Pertronix, you can go inline (pertronix website) and find the authorized dealers near your area. Here's a link http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/default.aspx you can down load their catalog (orange one) They have them for the 428FE motor (page 10) for many different makes and years of ford Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Since Doug's is owned by Pertronix, you can go inline (pertronix website) and find the authorized dealers near your area. Here's a link http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/default.aspx you can down load their catalog (orange one) They have them for the 428FE motor (page 10) for many different makes and years of ford Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 (edited) I will have to try unbolting engine and raising it. Mounts were hell to get aligned up to get thru bolt stabbed. Still cant see that improving things. They seem "wedged" in between the head and the shock tower. The mount rail aligns ok fore and aft, but there is a gap along the top and it too big to even get one bolt started. Seems like if I raise it up I may be able to swing the lower portion of the header outboard to close the gap. It may let me get the bolts in but will probably wedge against shock tower when I let the engine down. Also, I dont see that helping the header flange point hitting the tunnel support. Still will try it and get some pics. Car doesnt have any obvious damage history. Edited August 31, 2011 by miketyler Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 (edited) I will have to try unbolting engine and raising it. Mounts were hell to get aligned up to get thru bolt stabbed. Still cant see that improving things. They seem "wedged" in between the head and the shock tower. The mount rail aligns ok fore and aft, but there is a gap along the top and it too big to even get one bolt started. Seems like if I raise it up I may be able to swing the lower portion of the header outboard to close the gap. It may let me get the bolts in but will probably wedge against shock tower when I let the engine down. Also, I dont see that helping the header flange point hitting the tunnel support. Still will try it and get some pics. Car doesnt have any obvious damage history. Edited August 31, 2011 by miketyler Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stanger69 16 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 For what its worth, I put a 351C 4-V in my 68 fastback. there is not much difference in the engine compartment and clearnace between the 68 and 69. I have manual steering, Top loader 4-speed and manual disk brakes. I installed a set of Dougs engine swap headers in this set up and they fit like a glove. I had to only one tube that grazed the front edge of the bell housing so I had to "ding" it a "little to create an air gap. But the small dent is no more than a 3/32" deep. Outside of that, they fit perfect and cleared everything. I love 'em I choose the Dougs over the hooker super comp just becuase they were a few dollars more and i was expecting a good fit. Dougs...good clearance..power steering, Ididit tilt colum, rack.pinion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stanger69 16 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 For what its worth, I put a 351C 4-V in my 68 fastback. there is not much difference in the engine compartment and clearnace between the 68 and 69. I have manual steering, Top loader 4-speed and manual disk brakes. I installed a set of Dougs engine swap headers in this set up and they fit like a glove. I had to only one tube that grazed the front edge of the bell housing so I had to "ding" it a "little to create an air gap. But the small dent is no more than a 3/32" deep. Outside of that, they fit perfect and cleared everything. I love 'em I choose the Dougs over the hooker super comp just becuase they were a few dollars more and i was expecting a good fit. Dougs...good clearance..power steering, Ididit tilt colum, rack.pinion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Since Doug's is owned by Pertronix, you can go inline (pertronix website) and find the authorized dealers near your area. Here's a link http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/default.aspx you can down load their catalog (orange one) They have them for the 428FE motor (page 10) for many different makes and years of ford Cool, thanks Wycked69. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
