Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 Hi, i am new to this forum. Im a senior in High school and just want to get into fixing my mustang. I have a 69 mustang 302 2bbl automatic. It is running really rich and smoking alot and whenever i get on the gas hard from a stop it stalls and dies out. My buddy and i finally figured out that the choke is not acting right. It has an electric choke and whenever it is running the choke is still on. Also, it is somewhat difficult to start and i frequently use ether when it is a cold engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 Hi, i am new to this forum. Im a senior in High school and just want to get into fixing my mustang. I have a 69 mustang 302 2bbl automatic. It is running really rich and smoking alot and whenever i get on the gas hard from a stop it stalls and dies out. My buddy and i finally figured out that the choke is not acting right. It has an electric choke and whenever it is running the choke is still on. Also, it is somewhat difficult to start and i frequently use ether when it is a cold engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
302coupe 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 what kind of carb do you have? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
302coupe 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 what kind of carb do you have? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 its an autolite 2100 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 its an autolite 2100 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
302coupe 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 Well im sorta dealing with some of the same probs and the first thing i get told is to properly tune my carb.I had to scour the net for a good carb video(holley) and i suggest you do the same.To properly tune the carb youll need a vacuum gauge. Tuning the carb may take car of some of the probs you have but others with far more knowledge will chime in.When i watched the video for my carb there were lots of car terms i wasnt familiar with so dont hesitate to ask. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
302coupe 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 Well im sorta dealing with some of the same probs and the first thing i get told is to properly tune my carb.I had to scour the net for a good carb video(holley) and i suggest you do the same.To properly tune the carb youll need a vacuum gauge. Tuning the carb may take car of some of the probs you have but others with far more knowledge will chime in.When i watched the video for my carb there were lots of car terms i wasnt familiar with so dont hesitate to ask. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 awesome thank you. do you kow where i could find the video? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 awesome thank you. do you kow where i could find the video? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
302coupe 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 i briefly tried looking but my work comp doesnt allow me to access lots of sites,so youll just have to search the internet.I typed in tuning an autloite 2100 and got lots of hits.should be lots of decent vids on youtube Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
302coupe 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 i briefly tried looking but my work comp doesnt allow me to access lots of sites,so youll just have to search the internet.I typed in tuning an autloite 2100 and got lots of hits.should be lots of decent vids on youtube Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 If the choke coils is properly installed onto the linkage so it opens and closes the plate, then looking into the power/ground is next thing to do. It need power to heat the coil which opens the chokeplate after it has run some. It also needs a ground to operate, not just expecting the carb body to be the ground for it. Tuning the 2V is simple as adjusting the mixture screws to get the smoothest idle and highest vac at idle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 If the choke coils is properly installed onto the linkage so it opens and closes the plate, then looking into the power/ground is next thing to do. It need power to heat the coil which opens the chokeplate after it has run some. It also needs a ground to operate, not just expecting the carb body to be the ground for it. Tuning the 2V is simple as adjusting the mixture screws to get the smoothest idle and highest vac at idle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 That 2100 carb might not have an electric heater on it. Mine did not. Does it have a wire or a single connection place for a wire on the black side of the choke controller? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 That 2100 carb might not have an electric heater on it. Mine did not. Does it have a wire or a single connection place for a wire on the black side of the choke controller? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigperm2 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) If it is the original carb, you should have a heat stove that comes from the exhaust manifold to heat the coil in the automatic choke. If the tube is blocked, or you have headers without the heat tube, it obviously won't work. The good news is, if you go to your local salvage yard, almost any 70s/80s ford carburator has an electric choke, and you convert it pretty easily. The ideal place for the hot side of the electric choke is on the stator of alternator (should be the unused post on the alternator assuming you don't have a factory tach), but you can also wire it to the ignition switch... not to the coil though, it needs to be spliced in before the resistance wire. As a temporary fix/test. Since it is summer, it should be able to start and run with the choke wide open. It may die a few times and you will have to keep your foot on the gas until it is warmed up. But once warm, the rich/hesitation problem should be gone. If it is still there, you have more problems than just the choke. Edited June 7, 2011 by bigperm2 edit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigperm2 10 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) If it is the original carb, you should have a heat stove that comes from the exhaust manifold to heat the coil in the automatic choke. If the tube is blocked, or you have headers without the heat tube, it obviously won't work. The good news is, if you go to your local salvage yard, almost any 70s/80s ford carburator has an electric choke, and you convert it pretty easily. The ideal place for the hot side of the electric choke is on the stator of alternator (should be the unused post on the alternator assuming you don't have a factory tach), but you can also wire it to the ignition switch... not to the coil though, it needs to be spliced in before the resistance wire. As a temporary fix/test. Since it is summer, it should be able to start and run with the choke wide open. It may die a few times and you will have to keep your foot on the gas until it is warmed up. But once warm, the rich/hesitation problem should be gone. If it is still there, you have more problems than just the choke. Edited June 7, 2011 by bigperm2 edit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 As a temporary fix/test. Since it is summer, it should be able to start and run with the choke wide open. It may die a few times and you will have to keep your foot on the gas until it is warmed up. But once warm, the rich/hesitation problem should be gone. If it is still there, you have more problems than just the choke. +1. I would just remove the choke butterfly completely for the summer. I doubt you will have much if any cold start problems unless you live at some really high altitude or near the arctic circle. Take your time to study whatever instructions you can find on youtube or the Holley tuning guide (realizing of course that you will have to understand the theory as it won't always be directly applicable to the 2bbl Autolite. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted June 7, 2011 As a temporary fix/test. Since it is summer, it should be able to start and run with the choke wide open. It may die a few times and you will have to keep your foot on the gas until it is warmed up. But once warm, the rich/hesitation problem should be gone. If it is still there, you have more problems than just the choke. +1. I would just remove the choke butterfly completely for the summer. I doubt you will have much if any cold start problems unless you live at some really high altitude or near the arctic circle. Take your time to study whatever instructions you can find on youtube or the Holley tuning guide (realizing of course that you will have to understand the theory as it won't always be directly applicable to the 2bbl Autolite. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRASTiK 22 Report post Posted June 8, 2011 I agree with the above as well, regarding a properly tuned carb, but if you're positive that the choke NEVER opens on its own, use a multimeter on the ohms setting and test the resistance of the choke coil. If it's wide open, then the coil has a break in it and this explains why the choke isn't opening. Just a thought. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRASTiK 22 Report post Posted June 8, 2011 I agree with the above as well, regarding a properly tuned carb, but if you're positive that the choke NEVER opens on its own, use a multimeter on the ohms setting and test the resistance of the choke coil. If it's wide open, then the coil has a break in it and this explains why the choke isn't opening. Just a thought. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 8, 2011 ahh schools finally out soo i have all summer lol. thanks for all of the hits and replies. will deffinatly look into it. will keep you posted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt1567 10 Report post Posted June 8, 2011 ahh schools finally out soo i have all summer lol. thanks for all of the hits and replies. will deffinatly look into it. will keep you posted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
