Voltage reg. question.

[prayers1 153]

I bought my 69 with the drivetrain out and engine wires in a box.

The PO had a Autolite Electronic Dist, MSD 6 AL & an Accel Super Coil in the wire box. I'm have the 289 worked on right now and would like to get the charging system ready.

 

I can't find the Volt reg. Isn't it suppose to be bolted to the left apron?

Wasn't it needed to run the ignition or did the PO disregard it and bypass it? If I need it, how to wire it.

 

A friend gave me a Mallory electronic dist. Does anyone know how to install this? Do I still use the Accel & MSD or just a coil (Accel).

DO I STILL NEED A VOLTAGR REG? If so, how to wire that.

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

[prayers1 153]

I forgot to ask.

Does anyone have a picture of their engine bay less the air cleaner showing the locations of the volt reg, sel and ele wires.

Thanks.

[jholmes217 65]

I bought my 69 with the drivetrain out and engine wires in a box.

The PO had a Autolite Electronic Dist, MSD 6 AL & an Accel Super Coil in the wire box. I'm have the 289 worked on right now and would like to get the charging system ready.

 

I can't find the Volt reg. Isn't it suppose to be bolted to the left apron?

Wasn't it needed to run the ignition or did the PO disregard it and bypass it? If I need it, how to wire it.

 

A friend gave me a Mallory electronic dist. Does anyone know how to install this? Do I still use the Accel & MSD or just a coil (Accel).

DO I STILL NEED A VOLTAGR REG? If so, how to wire that.

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

If the previous owner switched to a 1 wire alternator, you will not need the voltage regulator as it is built into the alternator.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

My 70 bay, hard to see wires but it should get you in the ball park if the stock alt is used.

[prayers1 153]

I understand that, but how do I determine that the PO did that.

What wire am I looking for.

The solenoid is still hanging by 1 bolt on the Pass apron, with wires hanging from it, next to what I believe is a gutter gaurd.(4" black strip of plastic)

 

Do you have any pictures instead of diagrams (they work best for me).

[prayers1 153]

Thanks, Mach1Rider.

I do not see on mine or in the box the clip in wire to the volt reg. Would that indicate a Volt reg. bypass. Would I then have to buy an internal reg alt. or do I go back to stock. What amp?

[LoneWolf2U 136]

PO prob removed the wire/connector from the harness, Pulled from that 4 in guard.

the wires in that guard went from alt to reg/sol.

Stock alt is 55 amp.

[prayers1 153]

If anyone was going to convert to an internal alt from external, how would they go about doing it. I ask this, because if I can't follow what the previous PO did (a hack job) then maybe I can redue his if any mistakes and know that the job is right.

 

Does the voltage reg have anything to do with the Mallory Elecrtronic distributor.

 

Sould I go back to external. What are the benifits if any on either setup?

[jholmes217 65]

If anyone was going to convert to an internal alt from external, how would they go about doing it. I ask this, because if I can't follow what the previous PO did (a hack job) then maybe I can redue his if any mistakes and know that the job is right.

 

Does the voltage reg have anything to do with the Mallory Elecrtronic distributor.

 

Sould I go back to external. What are the benifits if any on either setup?

 

1 wire alternators normally have more voltage than the stock ones, so they work better for cars with electric fans, high power stereo's, GPS, and other electric using gadgets. 1 wire alternators have the voltage regulator inside the alternator, so you can't even see it. I got my 100 amp 1 wire from JEGS last summer when they had a sale on chrome ones for $100. I was planning on a good stereo system and electric fan, so that is why I went that route.

 

If the previous owner went that route, the plug for the voltage regulator was probably either cut off or was taped up to keep it from dangling. Also, look at the back of your alternator. If it only has one plastic rimmed place to attach a wire, you probably have a 1 wire alternator.

Edited April 23, 2011 by jholmes217

[prayers1 153]

Unfortunately the alt was not included.

Were does the volt reg wires run. From the fire wall beneath the master cyl or do they come from somewhere else???????

 

Maybe with someones help, I can trace the beginning of that wire and cap it off. Do I need that branch to go to the solenoid?????

 

 

It's been a while, but the pwr from the key goes to the soleniod then from there to the coil, then to the distrib ??????? Also form the solenoid wire goes to the alt and starter.

 

The 1 plug alt setup wires comes form the solenoid ?????

[RogerC 136]

Sounds like you need to start from scratch. First, take some pictures of what you do have as it will be easier to help. Next, get yourself a wiring diagram available through any of the mustang vendors. It sounds like you have an empty engine compartment so basically a clean slate. Not sure why the 289, just seems odd. Here's a site with some tech articles that may help. http://www.mustangsteve.com/ There's another good one somewhere that I can't seem to find at the moment, maybe later.

[prayers1 153]

RacerX,

Thank for the reply. Yes, in the engine compartment I might need to start from scratch, but all of the other wiring is in place.

As for the 289. It's a 68, good head, cam etc.. That's what came with the deal, I'll be using it while I get things together. Can't afford anything else at the time. I still need to do bodywork, paint, wheels and interior.

 

I did pick up a Chiltons and I just got from ebay Ford Shop Manuals 1,2 & 3. If you happen to have a copy of either, drop me a note telling what page of interest.

 

Electrical wiring is a little foreign to me, always has been.

 

If I could somehow get pointed in the right direction, I can then pick up the pieces.

 

That other tech article. If you find it, please drop it off.

Thanks so much. John

[69gmachine 15]

The shop manuals are great for identifying wire harness assemblies and how/where they connect. However, you still need to buy a volt/ohm meter, a Mustang specific wiring diagram for a '69 and learn how to use it. Owning a 40 plus year old toy will require that you become a jack-of-all-trades mechanic/electrician. Fortunately these cars are really simple and easy to learn. Being able to diagnose your own problems gives you a great sense of satisfaction.

 

In Volume 3 of the shop manuals, right at the beginning on page 14-01-10, figure 13 shows the alternator harness at the alternator. Start by locating this harness. If the PO converted to a one wire alternator, this harness may have been discarded. The other end of this harness plugs into the main engine bay harness.

 

The only advantage to a one wire alternator is that it's simple to install. The larger amperage alternator you install, the more power it takes to turn it. It costs both power and gas mileage, so unless you have a lot of electrical gadgets to consume all that power, you're wasting your money. Get the smallest amperage alternator that will get the job done. If you plan on using this car at night, you should also plan on upgrading the headlights, and that in turn could increase your power requirements beyond the factory rated 45 amp alternator most 69 Mustangs came with. Only the heavily optioned cars came with a 55 amp alternator. Most replacement alternators are rated at 65 amps, and that's plenty to run halogen headlights, a nice stereo, electronic ignition and AC all at the same time.

[prayers1 153]

69gmachine,

Thank you for the reply! Would you happen to have a copy of the engine bay wire diagram?

 

This will be a cruiser vehicle, not many gadgets, so I think going stock will be fine. At the monment there aren't many wires in the engine bay. The vehicle is at another location, so it'll be a few days untill I can get over there. I'll take a few pics to keep my memory fresh.

 

I'll check the Ford shop manual to see what your talking about.

 

I'll get back to this post after I get some pics.

 

Thanks!

[69gmachine 15]

From the main harness at the alternator harness disconnect, there are 3 wires:

 

A 10 gauge black wire that goes from the alternator output (red plastic isolator) to the battery side of the starter solenoid. It also branches off in the main harness to supply power to the dash through the firewall disconnect.

 

A 14 gauge orange wire that goes to the Field terminal of the alternator to the F on the voltage regulator. This is a sensing circuit that allows the alternator to work at varying loads to meet electrical demand. This is more efficient than the one wire alternators which are simply ON/OFF at a preset voltage, improving gas mileage slightly.

 

A 14 gauge black with red stripe wire that goes from the alternator ground to chassis ground, and also splits off in the alternator harness to go to engine ground at the block.

 

If you locate and/or replace the alternator harness with the molded in connector at the alternator, this will plug into the main harness at this connection that I've described.

 

I'm assuming you have a non-tach car as that is by far the most common. The tach cars have a slightly different alternator harness and circuit.

Edited April 24, 2011 by 69gmachine
more details

[RogerC 136]

found the other, here you go

http://www.freewebs.com/mustangtechlinks/engineenginemanagement.htm

[prayers1 153]

RacerX,

Great web page. Tons & tons of info.

Thanks so much!!!

[prayers1 153]

I was able to get some pictures today. Can someone identify the wires. I'm also looking for the wire that was cut off that went to the volt reg.

 

 

Could it be this single wire hanging? It's coming from the bundle going to the solenoid.

Edited April 26, 2011 by prayers1

[prayers1 153]

Here is a picture of the main harness. If you look close at the top row 3rd wire over to the left, it is cut off. Would anyone know what it went to.

 

 

Here is a picture taken near the throttle cable.

Can someone identify those wires. The green and yellow are open at the end. Could one be for the tach?

 

 

Thanks again for all of your time!!!

[danno 128]

The power from your switch goes 2 places. One wire goes to the solenoid to start motor, and the other wire goes through a completely seperate wire harness from the firewall to the coil. The charging and ignition circuits are completely seperate.

 

To find out what kind of alternator your car is set up for, it should have a 3 wire connector on the wire harness that connects to the alternator if it is a conventional system. This connector will be below the solenoid a few inches.

 

Can you take a picture of the area around the solenoid to let us see what you have?

[RogerC 136]

Post 18 Danno

[prayers1 153]

danno,

The wires going to the solenoid start from the main harness/firewall, run along the left apron and up to the lights, it then crosses over to the right light then back to the soleniod.

 

I forget, but I think the green and yelllow wires hanging down near the throttle are for the Tach.

 

Also, did you notice the 1 1/2" stripped wire on the top of the main harness bundle , coming out of the firewall. Whats that?

[prayers1 153]

Sorry, but what do you mean by Post 18 Danno?

[RogerC 136]

Sorry, but what do you mean by Post 18 Danno?

 

prayers1,

This was aimed at Danno who asked you to post pics of the solenoid area. You posted pics in post number 18 of this thread. This is post 24

Edited April 28, 2011 by RacerX
add post number

[prayers1 153]

Oh! Thanks for the explanation.