maynard444 10 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 There is a world of difference between those two. I hate how the CJ rail is spliced together from three separate pieces. As soon as I opened the package I was thoroughly disheartened. That Dynacorn rail looks really sharp compared to the CJ rail. I will definitely go with a Dynacorn rail now. Thanks for the pic comparison. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 30, 2011 what are you trying to show with the circles? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 30, 2011 what are you trying to show with the circles? Those came with the Dynacorn rails. The silver ones didn't have any of those pieces. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 30, 2011 Those came with the Dynacorn rails. The silver ones didn't have any of those pieces. ok. thought maybe you were trying to point out something less obvious like horrible looking welds (like on the axle bracket) or something wrong with the shackle mount. any pictures of the insides? do they contain the long reinforcement plate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted September 30, 2011 ok. thought maybe you were trying to point out something less obvious like horrible looking welds (like on the axle bracket) or something wrong with the shackle mount. any pictures of the insides? do they contain the long reinforcement plate? I don't have pictures on the inside, but I don't recall any type of long reinforcements. The shackle mount is doubled up though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 30, 2011 I don't have pictures on the inside, but I don't recall any type of long reinforcements. The shackle mount is doubled up though. it's hard to see in the pic, but what do you mean by doubled up? on mine there is a long plate on the inside of the frame rail that is spot welded to the rail. my guess is ford found a weak point and had to find a way to increase the strength. maybe someone else can comment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 10, 2011 POR15 LH quarter section, ready for quarter panel install very soon. Spent a few weeks spraying many coats of OSPHO marina rust converter in the upper/inside cracks and creases. I then applied POR15 over the main lower metal. [ATTACH]9746[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 11, 2011 I did this repair before putting in the LH wheel-housings... not exactly 5-star auto-body repair quality, but it's solid as can be. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) This rear connection panel was mangled pretty badly, so I had a used one shipped from a PA junkyard (they dont make these new for coupes). I didn't like the quality, but it sandblasted up nicely for the most part. Edited October 11, 2011 by kenyu73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 11, 2011 Another out-of-order panel repair... I didn't completely strip out the bronze, but the metal is strong and a bit of seam sealer will blend this together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 12, 2011 LH Quarter panel tacked into place... alignment looks good! Later tonight or tomorrow I'll bead up the seams and finish the jam, wheel-housing and tail spotwelds using an air hose to keep the temp down. [ATTACH]9753[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]9754[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]9755[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 14, 2011 it's hard to see in the pic, but what do you mean by doubled up? on mine there is a long plate on the inside of the frame rail that is spot welded to the rail. my guess is ford found a weak point and had to find a way to increase the strength. maybe someone else can comment. just in case you missed my question. otherwise i'll assume no response was the intent... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted October 14, 2011 This rear connection panel was mangled pretty badly, so I had a used one shipped from a PA junkyard (they dont make these new for coupes). I didn't like the quality, but it sandblasted up nicely for the most part. My 69 Coupe is in about the same spot as far as the sheet metal work. My l/s rear quarter is off now. I have to replace the outer wheel house on the l/s & I replaced the trunk floor. I just had to repair a rot spot in the l/s rear frame rail, & I also replaced the tail light panel & the support panel behind it. Was there any reason you welded the quarter at the top instead of trimming it & welding it on the side? That is my next thing I need to tackle & I am trying to get as much info as possible before I start on it. My car was hit in the l/s rear at some time in its life but not to hard so I just straightened the panel that connects the tail light panel to the quarter panel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 15, 2011 My 69 Coupe is in about the same spot as far as the sheet metal work. My l/s rear quarter is off now. I have to replace the outer wheel house on the l/s & I replaced the trunk floor. I just had to repair a rot spot in the l/s rear frame rail, & I also replaced the tail light panel & the support panel behind it. Was there any reason you welded the quarter at the top instead of trimming it & welding it on the side? That is my next thing I need to tackle & I am trying to get as much info as possible before I start on it. My car was hit in the l/s rear at some time in its life but not to hard so I just straightened the panel that connects the tail light panel to the quarter panel. I tried to take things off and save as much as possible, but it just got to the point where every part of the rear was damaged. I just went to town and just sawzall'ed the whole damn ass off (=. Not the smartest thing because I lost all frame references... I decided to weld the top so there wasn't a long straight repair reference along side the quarter. Any slight warpage would show easily. So me being a non-professional body guy, by welding on the top I have some room for mess ups without it "clearly" showing along the side. I am going to have a hell of a time grinding down smooth the area by the window/side though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 15, 2011 just in case you missed my question. otherwise i'll assume no response was the intent... Hey Buckeye, the only extra double layer is where the leaf spring mounts in the back. It's not really doubled up, its just the leaf eye hole/assembly part was a separate piece welded into the frame. Make sense? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 15, 2011 Hey Buckeye, the only extra double layer is where the leaf spring mounts in the back. It's not really doubled up, its just the leaf eye hole/assembly part was a separate piece welded into the frame. Make sense? thanks! makes sense. I believe that's similar to the way the factory had it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted October 15, 2011 (edited) For semantics, a tube welded through the rail would be called a sleeve, a standoff off on the side is called a bung. I believe this area has a long sleeve which also acts as a bung on both sides. Edited October 16, 2011 by Fordrevhead Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 16, 2011 (edited) Front and rear quarter spot welded on as well as the wheel-housing. [ATTACH]9782[/ATTACH][ATTACH]9783[/ATTACH] Quarter seem all welded and ground smooth [ATTACH]9784[/ATTACH] My son being put to work! Trying to get the rear-end all ready. Once the back metal is finished, I'l like to get the rear (and wheels) back on so I can move the car around if needed. [ATTACH]9785[/ATTACH] Edited October 16, 2011 by kenyu73 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 16, 2011 For semantics, a tube welded through the rail would be called a sleeve, a standoff off on the side is called a bung. I believe this area has a long sleeve which also acts as a bung on both sides. Yeah, what Chad said.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 27, 2011 Rearend all sandblasted and cleaned up with POR15. I'll probably do some rear-end work like new gear juice and such, but not anytime soon. Probably get the brake h/w on sometime this winter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 27, 2011 Started tacking in the RH quarter. This one isn't lining up as nicely as the other side, but its all workable. I did the seam on top of the drivers side which was a pain to grind, so I tried the flat side this time. I actually wish I did the top on this side too as the quarter just seems more solid the other way. I have about a 1/4" gap to fill as well as a small jam overhang. Once I get the seam welded in, I'll heat and tap the edge over into the jam. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted October 27, 2011 One of these days I am going to learn to weld like this. I know the new quarters come with a black primer .. but I am liking the two tone with red & black. Have you determined your paint yet?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 27, 2011 One of these days I am going to learn to weld like this. I know the new quarters come with a black primer .. but I am liking the two tone with red & black. Have you determined your paint yet?? Actually, Red and Black. I have a picture in my original/first post of what my goal is to be. I hope you're joking about my welds, they suck! Well, to give myself credit, I'm learning some good tricks as I go (like making tiny bumps instead of huge weld mountains!). :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenyu73 10 Report post Posted October 27, 2011 The ~1/4" hang over the door jam bothered me, so I cut the 10 or so tacks and re-did the panel starting with the jam side tight and pushed the "extra" metal to the back where I was able to tap the tail out to fill in the space. Much better now.... Good alignment... Bad alignment.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted October 28, 2011 At least you're giving it a shot =) It'll get better every time. I'll give it a shot on the next project, but that'll be after I get a new garage =) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
