Looking for a 1969 or 70 Sports Roof V6

[cgc 10]

I honestly don't care if the v6 is in it...I am just trying to avoid a couple of things:

1. Cost of buying a V8 model. I'm assuming (although it has been awhile since I've seen one for sale) that a 69/70 Sportsroof/fastback that originally came with a V6 may be cheaper?

2. Taking a mach1 or another specialty Mustang from this era and taking it away from "original". I really want to avoid that.

 

Any leads would be great.

Thanks

[Pakrat 1,043]

Any rolling shell without the engine shy of a big block vin car likely won't vary in price much regardless of if it came with the I6 (search for that, not V) or V8 originally. People looking to build a modified car don't really care what engine code is in the vin and folks looking to do an original restoration aren't too interested in what baseline V8 engine a car once had but no longer does.

 

Are you searching within just a specific area? I don't see your location called out so not sure what your lead limitiation is if any.

 

Are you prepared to do a lot of bodywork if your startup budget is low?

 

If I was going to build a car on a long term project starting from just the base and go totally custom I might seriously consider a new dynacorn body. It may not be an original car but to have that clean solid blank canvas to work from guilt free is pretty tempting.

[cgc 10]

Well, my thought was (not saying it was "right") I would rather mod a car that is not a mach, boss, BB car in hopes that people who bought those would leave them some what unmolested.... (rose colored glasses on, maybe...lol).

 

and thank you, yes, I6 as opposed to V6....please excuse my forgetfulness :)

 

Yeah, I realize that there will be body work (this will be a long term project).

I have looked at buying a new shell and have been trying to weigh the cost ($10 - $17K) vs buying an original car and then putting the body work into it that's needed. Obviously going that way, you don't get all the trim, any interior, bumpers and detail pieces that you would with an original car and therefore adds to the cost. If I can find a car that is in decent shape, and I can get a LOT of the part with it, even with body work....I dunno...it makes it hard to justify. Also, while I haven't looked into the details of it, having to register it and get a VIN...well, I worry how much of a PITA that will be.

Still doing leg work....so by no means have I just shut out the idea of a new shell. I'll look into it more since you've mentioned it before I write it off though.

 

I've just started looking and putting ideas down....so, please don't take this post as if I've got everything figured out just yet...lol.

 

I'm in Atlanta, but I'm not opposed to looking nation wide.

Edited January 27, 2011 by cgc

[cgc 10]

After looking at the dynacorn shells a bit more, while I REALLY like the idea of a fresh brand new "canvas", as you said.....even though this is a Mach 1 body and I'm sure it will go for more than the current bid, it's hard to justify the dynacorn when I run across something like this...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mach-1-M-code-351-clevland-4bbl-/300518365450?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item45f84a590a

 

We'll see...like I said before I have time to hunt a car down and I'm in no rush.

 

Thanks for the in put Pakrat, it is greatly appreciated.

[Pakrat 1,043]

There are certainly more folks that are against the dynacorn bodies than are for it don't get me wrong, many do not like them simply because they claim they aren't original, I myself am on the fence about it as well at times, I just wanted to make sure you had all options made aware to you, in some cases it is a good way to go especially for a full custom or pro touring, many of the parts are way improved over the original cut corners the bean counters chose back in the day. Take for example all the work that went into the car on your ebay link, not much of the original car left there anyway. That car will not be let go for the current bid and we have no idea what the reserve is but I'll bet it is 10-12K at least. Think about how many man hours are into it at say $75 an hour give or take. Just 10k is like only 3 weeks worth of work. As far as registration and VIN, the nice thing is that you can buy a total non savable rust bucket for cheap money and just transfer the vin as a complete body swap, you would still get all the other trim parts from the donor car that don't come with it.

 

I guess my point is most people just do not realize what they will end up sinking into a cheap starter car when all is said done and how much time can actually be saved, for many of us the journey is half the fun no matter how har dor long it is.. I have seen many cases though where people start with what they think is a soild affordable car only to find numerous hidden problems the deeper they go and the dream suddenly becomes a nightmare, years later they are selling a shell with boxes full of parts for a huge loss as a project that has lost interest.

 

Take me for example I started with the best car I could afford, it was ar really nice compeltely rust free California 10 footer 100% usable as is. Who could predict it would get totalled 4 years later and become a full scale project (6 years and counting). And even though I was still starting with a complete and all original car guess what, after 20K in repair, bodywork and paint most of all those 40 year old parts that were good enough for my 10 footer aren't good enough anymore and are getting replaced anyway. The domino effect has claimed many victims and once you start with a new this or that it always makes what is left look a lot worse, it is unavoidable.

 

So just be savy, take your time on whatever route you choose and whatever car you buy, don't let anxiety cloud your judgement, a better car always comes along with patience. Weigh all options and look at the big picture not just the now. I often think of some of the local heaps I almost paid more for than the one I got and shipped half way across the country because I was too anxiuous.

[cgc 10]

Man, I really do appreciate all the info....seriously.

 

All of this makes me want to punch myself in the face for selling the 69 fastback I had when I was 19 (for $700).

The car had minor issues, all electrical worked, no engine/tranny and the interior was complete except the dash pad just needed to be redone/freshened up. I should have just sat on the car and waited it out.....

Hindsight sucks...lol

 

Last night I thought about the dynacorn body and picking up a beat to crap body for the little pieces....and the VIN (I've been reading on the transferring of the VIN ;) )

Personally, while I would like to have an original 69/70 car....I almost would RATHER get a reproduction car so not to molest an original

 

Even with the dynacorn body, there is still work I would want to do (widening the rear fender wells, removing the shock towers, modify the fuel fill hole with a flip down license plate cover, etc)....but it may be the way to go.

 

Again thanks....I'm still doing research cause I've forgotten a WHOLE bunch of this stuff it seems.

[cgc 10]

FYI =

That e-bay link I posted: The reserve on the car was $10K. The owner said that the price did not include labor invested into the car.

 

I do still question what the greater value is considering the e-bay car has the glass, rear end, and several other key components.

 

Anyways....

[Max Power 74]

Thing is about buying an older car to get all the trim pieces, once you do nice bodywork and get it painted, all those old trim pieces really look like crap. While you have them for reference, in most cases, you can't use them.

 

Dynacorn is a good option for the amount of chopping you intend to do, but then again, if you are going to dump shock towers and do severe quarter mods, having an older shell that needs some work might be OK as well.

 

I saved up over the years to have 10 grand for paint and bodywork, and I ended up spending another 10 grand in all the other trim and accessories. This doesn't even count suspension or drivetrain. It's not gonna be cheap either way.

 

BTW, I think in most states it is illegal to transfer a VIN to a dynacorn body, or any other body for that matter. I think people trying to get away with that are the main reason people are against Dynacorn bodies. As long as they are titled uniquely, like cobra kit cars, I have no problem with them.

 

The 32 Ford guys have been dealing with this for years, to the point at show where the few that are original steel have "Body by Henry" on the sign.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I still don't get that whole resitance to the VIN thing in some states, not in this case anyway. I can see it with fiberglass reproduction bodies but this is a licensed replacement part by Ford, the fact that you can have an almost completly rusted out car and buy and replace 98% of the metal on it all around the dash in all seperate parts made from overseas but you can't buy what is basically all these parts already pre-assembled only made with better quality and stampings is ridiculous. People even cut out and replace the inner fender numbers for authenticity on some restorations.

[Max Power 74]

I still don't get that whole resitance to the VIN thing in some states, not in this case anyway. I can see it with fiberglass reproduction bodies but this is a licensed replacement part by Ford, the fact that you can have an almost completly rusted out car and buy and replace 98% of the metal on it all around the dash in all seperate parts made from overseas but you can't buy what is basically all these parts already pre-assembled only made with better quality and stampings is ridiculous. People even cut out and replace the inner fender numbers for authenticity on some restorations.

 

 

It's a fair point. I just think most states want to make it harder for people intent on committing fraud.