'70 Vert Sound System

[Big Secz 26]

Today was nothing but problems.

 

First when installing a DIN style radio there is a simple modification that you need to make to the lower dash trim pieces that go on either side of the radio. See the befoore and after pictures below. I used a Dremmel tool to cut off what I needed to.

 

Now for the problem, the dash. I had ordered and "origianl Ford tooling" dash from Virginia Classic Mustang and nothing at all lines up. The dash literally needs to be forced into place. I don't know if the issue is due to the 4x6 speakers that I installed or if it's just the dash. I managed to get the three upper screws in. Now none of the holes at the top of the gauge cluster or clock line up at all. It's taken a lot of force to get it to fit thus far. I will have to fight with it some more tomorrow.

[chillininnh 21]

The Ford original tooling dash I recently installed was from Dashes Direct and it fit quite nice, I bought it from Kentucky Mustang on sale. I did have to adjust the lower dash quite a bit to get the two pieces to line up. It took quite a bit of fanagling to get everything aligned. I used a small phillips screw driver, inserting it through the cluster holes and into the clips, to gently pry it into position. Careful!!!!

[Big Secz 26]

Thanks Chillin,

 

With my old dash I was able to take the dash out with the clock panel still mounted to it. With this dash I had to put the clock panel in and put in the bottom three screws. Now of course the holes at the top of the clock panel doen't line up with the holes under the dash. Like you said I will have to try and line them up with a screw driver. The other issue I'm having is that the two tabs at the bottom on either side of the dash are meant to screw into the lower dash. I had to bend these tabs in order to seat the dash the way I have it so far. Do you think by loosening the lower dash I will be able to line it up better?

[chillininnh 21]

I started by attaching the passenger side bezel to the dash pad, three screws across the top and the two from behind via the plastic tabs on each side. Next I screwed the gauge bezel to the lower dash. Because I'm using the Year One bezel, it attached at the two plastic tabs on each side only. I set the dash pad in place and was able to get the three screws at the top easily. I started finagling it in place trying to line things up at the bottom/bezels and it quickly was apparent that the lower dash was not mating very well with the pad. In my case I had the lower dash completely out of the car and as you probably know, there is quite a bit of adjustment at the bolts/supports that secure the lower dash. When I reinstalled the lower dash I didn't give much thought about it, I just kinda installed it and tightened'r up. It was clear the lower dash had to be raised up to close the gap between the two halves. I was able to do this by loosening the bolts on each end of the lower dash, two on each side, and pushing it in toward the firewall. I basically pushed it in as much as I could, holding it there, and tightening up the bolts. You may also have to loosen the top bolt on the support brackets and jimmy those up a bit to bring up the center, it's surprising how flexible the lower dash can be! This got it close enough to get the rest of the fasteners installed and closed the gaps I had between the two. Hope this helps, it's a bit of trial and error. Pay close attention to the foam around the radio where it meets those trim pieces you modified, there is no protection there and taking the dash on and off can damage this area easily. I learned this the hard way twenty years ago when I installed the last one, a REAL Ford dash.

 

Edited February 10, 2011 by chillininnh

[Big Secz 26]

Thanks Chillin,

 

I dread the thought of pulling the dash pad out again but I don't see any other way around it. When I had originally mounted the clock bezel to the pad before I put it in the car, that didn't even line up right. When it was mounted to the pad there was about 1/4" gap between the edge of the clock bezel and the lip of the the pad where it should be flush against the pad.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I was hoping to get started on this in the spring myself, now I'm nervous as hell. I also have the dashes direct one, not sure who I ordered it thru though as it was a few years ago. I do recall comparing it to my orginal though and thought that it looked liked an exact copy so I was really hoping it would go in without issue. Like anything though with multiple attachment points I know my only real plan is to get every non hidden screw started first before I tighten any of them down and then I will likely go thru at least all the ones that seem to fight the angles just a little at a time like a torque sequence.

 

I don't think anyone has ever had a dash install go easy though FWIW, not even when you remove and replace the same one that's why everyone always says when you have it off to just replace all yoru bulbs or circuitbaords or whatever and to test and retsest that everything works first because it's just a miserable job you don't want to repeat.

[69gmachine 15]

Me too ! I just installed an original 69 am/fm radio with an ipod/mp3 upgrade. I am going to run the wire under the console and make a dock inside the console compartment.

 

Where did you send the radio for modification? Maybe you can start a new thread to tell us how the ipod installation worked out.

[Big Secz 26]

Well, adjusting the lower dash like Chillin had explained seem to do the trick. It's not a "perfect" fit, but I'm much happier with it. The holes in the top of the gauge and clock panels that screw into the underside of the dash still don't line up but they are closer than they were and I think I can use a screw driver like Chillin had explained to get them to go. I just didn't feel like fussing with it anymore today.

 

69gmachine,

 

The radio I installed is an Alpine that is already iPod compatible. The only thing I had to add was the Alpine iPod intigration cable. What I like about the Alpine radio is that the iPod is controlled (song searches, playlists, etc.) from the radio itself. So there is no need to fumble with the iPod once it's hooked up. Because of this I ran the iPod cable into my glovebox. So I can hook up the iPod and leave it in the glove box and not worry about it. It also charges the iPod at the same time. Just playing the iPod through the two 4x6 speakers I mounted in the center dash the radio sounds a million times better than it did. Tomorrow I will start working on a custom trunk enclosure. Going with 1/2" MDF to build the floor and walls and I picked up black vinyl from a local upholstery shop.

 

So here's one thing that happend today that made me laugh at my own stupidity:

 

After getting the dash in and testing the radio with my iPod, without thinking I just let it keep playing as I worked. Completely losing track of how long I was letting the radio play. As I was installing a my new sillplate, right as I was putting in my first screw the radio cut out. I jiggled the screw and the radio kicked back on, then as I moved the screw it cut back out. I though I had screwed into a wire and shorted something out. I took the sill plate off and jiggled the wires and the radio kicked back on and then out again. I stopped for a minute to think, I turned the key off and as I turned it back to accessory I noticed the lights dimmed. I knew then it had to be the battery. I tried to turn the key and naturally, *click, cliick, click*. I'm just thankful that its not a bad connection somewhere with the radio that I have to go chasing down.

 

I will be posting pictures soon.

[Big Secz 26]

Today, like usual was not without problems. I cut the 1/2 MD for the trunk floor. I had to cut it in three pieces. One large piece for the center section and two pieces for the sides in order to get it in the trunk. While test fitting the large center section I snapped the hydraulic line for my convertible top. Perhaps a blessing in desguise. It had sanpped once before and I was able to fix it with a compression fitting. Now it snapped at the compression fitting and only leaves me a small portion of hose coming out of the pump. The lines are so old and hard they have no flexability left in them. So I just ordered a new set of hoses from Hydro E-Lectric. Wasn't bad, $100 for the set.

 

Now I have to figure out how I'm going to level the MDF in the trunk, attach the two side pieces and cover everything in black vinyl. Let the brainstorming begin.

[RogerC 136]

Search these sites, should be some good ideas there.

 

http://www.fiberglassforums.com/

 

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/

[Big Secz 26]

Made some progress today. I nearly completed the trunk but I ran out of vinyl. There is a verticle piece for the back that hides the back area of the trunk. I'll install it when I get more vinyl. All-in-all I'm pretty happy with it. Considering I'm not a carpenter or upholsterer (so be easy on the criticism, LOL), also a not to self; be sure to vacuum the floor mat before taking said picture.

 

I also included pics of the radio and dash.

 

CJ emailed me that my kick panels shipped. Whoo hoo. I ordered those things just after Christmas and they are finally coming.

[69RavenConv 286]

The trunk looks very nice. In fact, you've got me thinking I may want to do it, too. The trunks on our cars were never very user-friendly from the factory. Did you make the panels removeable or more-or-less permanent? As a part time woodworking hack I know MDF is heavy, did you go with 3/4" stock? I'm wondering if 3/8" pressure treated plywood might work just as well. Good work, I like it!

[Big Secz 26]

The trunk looks very nice. In fact, you've got me thinking I may want to do it, too. The trunks on our cars were never very user-friendly from the factory. Did you make the panels removeable or more-or-less permanent? As a part time woodworking hack I know MDF is heavy, did you go with 3/4" stock? I'm wondering if 3/8" pressure treated plywood might work just as well. Good work, I like it!

 

 

I went with 1/2" MDF. It is very sturdy and not as heavy and hard to handle in large sections like 3/4".

 

The entire trunk floor is removeable. It had to be cut into three sections. You should be able to see the seems in the pics. The first is the large middle section. Then there is both sides.

 

Once I had all three pieces cut and test fitted, the floor sloped real bad (from front of car to back of car) and nothing sat flat, especially the right side because the "loop" for the spare tire mount sticks up. To fix this I cut two pices of pine 2x2 to go on the "ledge" of the trunk floor on either side of the gas filler neck and support the MDF floor. It's not level but the slope isn't as bad and when looking at it you can't tell that it isn't level.

 

I then cut four more pieces of 2x2 about 10" long. 2 pieces for each side panel (I did have to add 1/2" shims to each of these 2x2s). These 2x2's go under both the side panels and the center panel for support, like "arms". I screwed each side panel the the pairs of 2x2s before covering them in vinyl. These 2x2 pieces are also what the center panel screws into to make everything stationary.

 

The center panel is cut to the width of the opening of the trunk so it simply slides in and out. So the order for removing everything would be to unscrew and remove the back panel (which isn't installed yet), unscrew all four screws (2 on each side) of the center panel and remove, then simply remove the two side panels without having to unscrew anything.

 

I'm going to get more vinyl and finish it up this early this week. I will post pictures of everything installed and all of the pieces to give you a better idea of how everything fits together.

Edited February 14, 2011 by Big Secz

[RogerC 136]

Liking your center console.

[70mstang 11]

Looking good!

[stangme428 33]

nice very nice.... its always fun cruisin with tunes.. good work!!

[Big Secz 26]

Liking your center console.

 

 

The center console is the Humphugger Cruiser console.

[Big Secz 26]

I received the kick panels today from CJ and discovered that they do in fact fit 4x6 speakers and NOT 5 1/2" speakers like CJ said. I'm glad I held on to the pair of 4x6s that I had ordered instad of going with what CJ said and got 5 1/2".

Edited February 15, 2011 by Big Secz

[stangme428 33]

I received the kick panels today from CJ and discovered that they do in fact fit 4x6 speakers and NOT 5 1/2" speakers like CJ said. I'm glad I held on to the pair of 4x6s that I had ordered instad of going with what CJ said and got 5 1/2".

 

 

hmmm so any chance you could fit a 6" 1/2" in it? with mods etc...? dont see any depth or dimension specs on the pods.

 

what was your part number, they list a 5 1/2" pods for coupes and fastbacks and 4 x 6 pods converts

[Big Secz 26]

hmmm so any chance you could fit a 6" 1/2" in it? with mods etc...? dont see any depth or dimension specs on the pods.

 

what was your part number, they list a 5 1/2" pods for coupes and fastbacks and 4 x 6 pods converts

 

 

Anything bigger than a 4x6 won't fit the kick panels for verts. Part number with CJ for the vert is SPK31. The description on the website says 4x6 speakers only, however after I ordered them and received the email confirmation it stated that they were for 5 1/2". I even spoke with CJ and they insisted it was 5 1/2" and that their website description was wrong. The SPK30 for coupe/fastback fit 5 1/2" component speakers with a spot for a tweeter. There is an obvious shape difference between the picture of the two different kick panels.

[StephenC 10]

I got 5 1/2 components with a 2" tweeter installed in my kick panel pods from CJponyparts

[Big Secz 26]

DONE!!!!!!!

 

I replaced the hydraulic lines for the top, which was an easy job to do. Then I cut the holes for my 4x6 speakers in the kick panels. The kick panels are not a perfect fit. They make it difficult to reinstall the door scuff plates and you might as well forget about putting the kick panel screws back in. But the panels fit so tight that the screws aren't even needed. I have a set of speaker grilles on the way I got off of Ebay.

 

I then finished covering my last piece for the trunk and hooked up the sub. Everything is working great and the sound is a million times better.

 

I mounted the two 4x6s in the center dash to the front speaker connections on the radio, and the 4x6s in the kick panels are mounted to the rear speaker connections on the radio. This gives me a lot of adjustability to balance the sound.

 

The powered sub is perfect for me. I turned the three controls on the back of the sub to max and then dialed it in the rest of the way with the subwoofer control on the radio.

 

Here are pictures that show how the different pieces of the trunk go together.

Edited February 17, 2011 by Big Secz