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Big Secz

'70 Vert Sound System

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Today I was finally able to start some of my winter projects. Mostly some minor stuff, the big one being installing a new sound system.

I wanted to post this for vert owners. Unfortunately for us vert owners we have the restrictions of not being able to mount rear speakers and therefore sound quality can suffer.

The following are my goals for this install:

1. Budget minded

2. Updated head unit

3. iPod compatible

4. Not require major modifications to the car or interior

Because I didn’t want any major modifications to the interior I chose to go with the kick panels with built in speaker pods. I ordered these from CJ Pony (which were on backorder as usual and after three weeks of waiting I should have then next week). My only concern is that on the website it shows that they fit 4x6 rectangular speakers, however when my order confirmation was sent emailed to me under the same part number that I ordered it states 5 ¼ speakers. Fingers crossed they are in fact 4x6 since I already ordered the speakers.

For the head unit I opted to go with a modern DIN type radio with an iPod integration cable. This of course meant I had to order the DIN compatible radio bezel.

For a little thump I opted to go with a powered sub. Normally I wouldn’t go this route but it got great reviews and it saves a little space in the trunk by not having to worry about a place for mounting the amp.

Finally I’m thinking of a way to dress up the trunk a little bit. May go with ¼†MDF and carpet it.

Today I was able to start with the dash. I wasn’t able to find a decent dual coil speaker to fit in the stock center dash brackets. After measuring the opening I realized that I could order two 4x6’s and mount them side-by-side, I would only have to fabricate a bracket for it to work. I have a family member that has access to a water jet machine to help out in that area.

So that’s the project. I’ll be sure to keep details of the install for the vert owners and report back on how the sound quality turns out.

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Me too ! I just installed an original 69 am/fm radio with an ipod/mp3 upgrade. I am going to run the wire under the console and make a dock inside the console compartment. But Im having a problem trying to figure out where to put the speakers. I like your idea of the 2 in the dash !! I'm gonna steal that idea !! As for the other 2, I might put the in the doors. I have deluxe panels so they would go in where the rug is.

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I just picked up a custom bracket I had made on the water jet at the bike shop my cousin works at. The guy that did it for me usualy charges about $100 just for doing the CAD drawing, but he cut me a break and did all the work for a bottle Glenfiddich scotch. He also saved the CAD drawing and said that if anyone on the forum wants one he'll do it for $35 shipped. Just contact me if you are interested.

 

I will be posting pictures soon of the plate and the install. I plan on working on that tonight.

 

Flight96,

 

I opted to go with the custom kick panels that fit 4x6 speakers because I didn't want to mess with cutting my deluxe door panels and runnig the wiring.

 

I opted to go with an Alpine head unit with the iPod integration cable.

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Good idea to document this at the start for the other select vert owners. Not sure what type of speakers you got for the kick panels but I do recall an issue on oner model with clearance for the emergency brake, I can't remember if it was for the verts or not but since we have the large internal rockers it probably is.

 

Let us know what powered sub you went with too, I may be interested in one when we see how it goes and sounds to you.

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Pak,

 

I purposely wanted to start this and document it for us vert owners. Below is a list w/links of the speakers, sub and head unit I ordered.

 

Keep in mind this was not to be a competition sound system but should be a vast improvement and was easy on the budget. I opted for the 8" sub to conserve space and it should still give me plenty of thump.

 

Kicker KS460

http://www.crutchfield.com/s_2068KS460/Kicker-KS460.html?tp=100

 

Sound Ordanance B-8P

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8P/Sound-Ordnance-B-8P.html?search=powered+sub

 

Alpine CDE-102

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE102/Alpine-CDE-102.html?tp=5684

 

Apline iPod Cable

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KCE433I/Alpine-KCE-433iV-iPod-Cable.html?tp=120

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Ok...I'm waiting for the JB weld steel putty to set so I thought I would go ahead and post a picture of the bracket.

 

The eight holes are 1/8". They fit a #4 screw. I would have like to have been able to use a #6 but they were just a little too big for the holes. After I used my countersink bit the hole opened up a little and #6 screw probably would have worked.

 

I dropped in the four screws and placed JB Welds Steel Stick putty over the screw heads and now I'm letting it set up. It says it takes 24 hours to completely cure but I think in a few hours it will be cured enough for me to move on to the next step.

 

I know some would probably weld the scres in place and you can, but not everyone has access to a welder or knows how to weld. So I'm doing this in a way that everyone can do it. No I have never done this before and I'm thinking this up as it goes so I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

 

My next step will be to use the putty to attach the bracket to the dash.

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Ok.....So a few things. The screws were still a little loose, this could be because the putty wasn't completely cured, but for extra measure I put more putty around the screws on the top of the bracket too.

 

The bracket is attached, it isn't pretty but who cares you can't see it. The putty turned out to be necessary as there were placed where the bracket was elevated from the dash so I could use the putty to build up those areas and make contact with the bracket.

 

This stuff says it has a tensil strenght of 900lbs and compression strength of 8,000 psi. so I think this should be more than enough to hold the two speakers.

 

We'll see how things go tomorrow night when it has had the proper 24 hours to cure.

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Like your idea. :thumbup1: I think if I did this, I'd drill out the pop rivets holding the old metal bracket to the underside of the dash pad then attach the new bracket.

 

That won't work because the new bracket is actually bigger in both dimenstions than the original dash bracket. So you need to leave the original metal in order to give you something to mount to.

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About 1/8"-1/4" (YMMV) beneath the foam on the bottom side is the metal core of the dash pad. Couldn't you peel the foam away and attach directly to the metal?

 

 

The issue is that the dash isn't flat where the bracket lies. if you were to remove that and apply the bracket directly to the dash it would have a concave curve in it. In order for the bracket to stay straight and level I had to use the putty to build up the sides about 1/8", which is where the metal sides with the rivets came in handy and provided a base for the putty to adhere to and support the under side of the bracket.

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Well the little kid in me couldn't wait until tomorrow. I checked the putty and it was hard as a rock and holding the bracket and screws tight.

 

So here it is, both 4x6 speakers mounted side-by-side.

 

It'll be a while before I post again on the project as I have to wait until Saturday before I can start working on the the car again and I still have to get the existing radio out of the car and I'm waiting for my kick panels to come in from CJ Pony. They have been on back order for three weeks and should be here late this week or next week (fingers crossed).

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So just to make things clear for all, you are using bolts, not screws.

 

Just some alternate ideas, since the bracket is made by water jet it would probably be a good idea to make square holes instead of round, then you could use a carriage type bolt that has a square neck, this is like what was originally done so the bolts can't turn or spin and stay secure without all the putty. That or even in the original design it seems like you could just thread a nut all the way to the top first to secure it as well instead of the putty and maybe even added a lock washer if necessary.

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Pak you are right. The botls I used had countersink heads on them. The initial though was that they needed to sit as flat to the metal as possible on the underside so the plate would sit flat on the dash. I placed putty on the bolt heads thinking that would hold it well enough but it didn't. Because the putty was covering the bolt heads I couldn't access it with a screw driver to hold the bolt still to apply more nuts and lock washers so I opted to use the putty.

 

Looking back at the overall design I think I would have traced the original hole from the dash and used those. That way I could have just ordered two sets of the speaker mounts. By using the original holes it would allow use of the metal clips that hold the bolts in place.

 

Keep the ideas coming this was a first bite at the apple. I can always go back to the water jet guy and have him tweak it.

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It's great that you can be the guinea pig the process gets refined from for future learning, someone has to be the first. I work in R&D for a living and trial and error is always part of every process no matter how much work you do on paper first.

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Hello Big,

Seems like you are real close to where you want to be.

Nice work and thanks for sharing.

 

Pak - -good to see you around. BigSecz is a GOOD friend of mine and

he often mentions you when we talk.

 

You and I gotta hook up this summer. I go to the meets in Rockingham park and the Bud Run. Perhaps we will meet oneday

 

Be well - - Print Dad (Medford, MA)

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I spent this weekend removing the rest of the stuff from the dash and I replaced my guage lenses. I still have some more work to do before I'm ready to start putting the sound system together. I need to dye my seat belts, paint some interior trim pieces, replace all my bezels and knobs (wiper, lights, lighter), and replace my spedo cable.

 

I really took on a lot this winter. I also removed chrome trim around the base of the convertible top, and will be calling around to see about getting that re-chromed.

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I also removed chrome trim around the base of the convertible top, and will be calling around to see about getting that re-chromed.

 

I got some quotes 2 or 3 years ago and they wanted over $300 bucks to re-chrome the 2 hockey sticks. A company called PG Classics in New Brunswick Canada is reproducing them for the same price:

http://tinyurl.com/68vbu7j

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I got some quotes 2 or 3 years ago and they wanted over $300 bucks to re-chrome the 2 hockey sticks. A company called PG Classics in New Brunswick Canada is reproducing them for the same price:

http://tinyurl.com/68vbu7j

 

 

Yeah, I was going to buy the repos but they don't have the two straight pieces that go in the center across the back.

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Yeah, I was going to buy the repos but they don't have the two straight pieces that go in the center across the back.

 

You shouldn't need to replace those, they aren't chrome, they are stainless. Unless they are mangled or something they should just buff and polish like new. The hockey sticks are the only parts that are cheap cast metal with chrome and why they tend to pit on most cars after 40 years. The company Raven mentions just started to make these a few years ago, before that you had to make do or hope to find a used pair better than yours. I got lucky, mine being from California and in storage for 20 years they just have a little crazing and look pretty good.

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You shouldn't need to replace those, they aren't chrome, they are stainless. Unless they are mangled or something they should just buff and polish like new. The hockey sticks are the only parts that are cheap cast metal with chrome and why they tend to pit on most cars after 40 years. The company Raven mentions just started to make these a few years ago, before that you had to make do or hope to find a used pair better than yours. I got lucky, mine being from California and in storage for 20 years they just have a little crazing and look pretty good.

 

 

Pak,

 

I just spoke to a chrome shop and they said the same thing and said that purchasing the outer portions would be cheaper than re-crhoming. The center pieced didn't appear stainless but since they are any recommendations on how to buff and polish them (products, etc.)? I also need to do the windshield trim.

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Pak,

 

I just spoke to a chrome shop and they said the same thing and said that purchasing the outer portions would be cheaper than re-crhoming. The center pieced didn't appear stainless but since they are any recommendations on how to buff and polish them (products, etc.)? I also need to do the windshield trim.

 

Yes, take a look at this website, extremely informative. I used my home made bench grinder and was able to buy most of the stuff at my local Lowes and Depot for less, a few items I had to get thru that site though. Depending on how rough your stuff is you may not need all the steps, my stuff did not require much more than finish polishing to bring it back to life.

 

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

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Well CJ Pony strikes again. The kick panels I ordered on 12/30 were back ordered. I caled a week and a half ago and they said they were supposed to be in last week. I never heard anything. I sent them a stern email and received a response that they are now supposed to be in the middle of next week. To top it off they show on their website that these panels are for 4x6 speakers (which I ordered based on this info) and the customer service rep tells me they are for 5 1/2" speakers. Someone is wrong somewhere.

 

Pak,

 

Thanks for the info. I'll check it out and see about buffing them myself.

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