value of this car please.

[02EBZ06 10]

I've posted this car before, but the discussion has come up again w/the seller. Whats it worth low/high value?? I'm counting on the market being low right now.

 

1969 Mustang, 351, Auto. It appears from looking at it, that it

will require a full interior resto, strip/repaint, wheels, and a complete engine rebuild.

 

[MikeStang 247]

That is a nice looking little ride, the panel alignment is pretty decent too....how much bondo is lurking under that White Hide all paint?

Remember white makes it look prefect, but it appears to be a nice car....Does it run/Drive?

heres something to put the car into perspective...

A friend bought a running driving 69GT...fairly fresh 351 all stock with a 5 spd, nice champagne paint, and interior that needed freshening up...he changed to black...suspension was new, no AC, but had PS and Drums all around if memory serves...he paid 15k, flew down and drove it home :)

So i would say on this non Mach 1 with the bit of work it needs....Low end maybe 6-7k but i would not pay over 10k for it since its not a Mach 1 or a GT...just my Humble opinion....hell i paid 7k for a car i am having to TOTALLY rebuild, but it is a MAch 1 :P

[jwscarab 20]

Id guess 10-12k if its not full of bondo. I paid 8k for a SOLID non-mach basket case! In my area, solid cars are hard to find.

[StephenC 10]

I would have to say that 13-14k would be a high price and 10-11k would be a low I couldnt see anyone selling it for 10 though. I bought my 69FB for 8 solid except for the rear quarter patches

[very fat and very dumb 40]

I see your location is the USA, that really narrows it down as far as rust/salt is concerned. I'd say it's worth 10K. If you dump 10K into paint, 5K into the engine and 2500 into the interior you'll have a 20,000 car.

[DeadStang 0]

$15,000

[unfrozen1969 11]

Another thing to consider is; what do you want to do with the car. If 1969 Mustang's are your passion and you will be restoring the car completely, then that will affect the negotiation. If the car is going to be a daily driver, and you don't have to put too much money into it, then that also affects the price. What concerns me is that something does not add up. The exterior is way too nice compared to the condition of the interior and engine compartments...that would make me very concerned about what if hidden form the naked eye. Check the rails for rust and floors for rot. Is this a highly optioned car? What makes this car unique to add value to the car? these are other things to consider... As a rule of thumb, I always start negotiations at half of the asking price and work up from there, and I always point to the flaws and how the car really is not what I was not looking for. I am still in search of that 69 Shelby for $150.00.

 

Good Luck and keep us posted...

[02EBZ06 10]

To answer a few q's and thanks for helping me out.

 

I am in California. I have access to paperwork on the car from day 1 at the dealer. The car was originally bought by a college girl in San Jose, CA. It then went to another female college student. Last, it ended up in a 3rd female college student's posession, who kept it.

 

According to her, the car was apparently not Wimbleton White from the factory and believes it as probably New Lime Green?? If you can believe this, the car has never been in an accident and does not have bondo.

That car is what you see. The passenger's rear quarter panel had a small incident from her son backing in to a fence post. I believe it was at that time, the current owner who loves Wimbleton White, decided thats what color it should be. When I looked under the car, I did not see rust. I did see what looked like rust under the hood though. I would expect on a car this old, it has to have some somewhere.

 

I am no fan of Wimbleton White nor New Lime and in fact kid of liked the

Aqua or Jade Green colors, but would like to remain true to the origin of the car if bought.

 

As far as I know, its a 351-4V (air cleaner and deck ht; I am familiar w/FORD small blocks), Auto (FMX), forgot gear ratio. This was confirmed w/the vin# when I last saw it. So, basically its a fastback w/a 351-4V, auto.

 

The car actually runs but owner prefers not to crank it after sitting all this time.

[very fat and very dumb 40]

So how much can you get it for? If it's a true California car you need to buy it. As far as New Lime goes the color is very unique. My convertible was originally New Lime, I had never seen it nor could I get photos of it. I finally saw one at a car show and almost barfed, not because of the color but becasue I had just spent $10,000 on a Calypso Coral paint job and I really liked New Lime.

 

Order a Marti report and buy the car.

Edited January 24, 2011 by very fat and very dumb

[02EBZ06 10]

So how much can you get it for? If it's a true California car you need to buy it. As far as New Lime goes the color is very unique. My convertible was originally New Lime, I had never seen it nor could I get photos of it. I finally saw one at a car show and almost barfed, not because of the color but becasue I had just spent $10,000 on a Calypso Coral paint job and I really liked New Lime.

 

Order a Marti report and buy the car.

 

I've got to get the vin# and confirm that color. I can't post the $$ amount while we are negotiating, but its an exceptionally good deal up to this point.

I would love to see a picture of the car in stock trim though.

[unfrozen1969 11]

Another way to look at this is, if the car is not truly what you desire, yet it is a good deal, then consider flipping it, and using the proceeds from your sale for the project that you really desire. It is called snow balling and alot of car enthusiasts do it, especially with parts cars etc...

 

Let us know how it ends up.

 

Bill

[02EBZ06 10]

...hesitation on seller's part and not because of the $ amount. no big deal. I'll probably end up going in to work and plop x amount in cash in front of her and watch for a response -- we all know money talks. She apparently is in no hurry, so this horse might be in the stable for a while.