Sidthing 10 Report post Posted January 16, 2011 How do you guys finish off the underside of your mustangs? It's going to be a driver, but after removing all the undercoating, I don't ever want to have to deal with that crap again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted January 16, 2011 Well, I had my body stripped by American Strippers in Sacramento. After that I used por-15 on the floor boards both top and bottom. Then shot it with a tie-coat primer. Then shot it with DP-74 epoxy primer. Then shot it with about six cans of good quality 3M undercoating. I think it's pretty well protected. And it IS going to be a driver, no trailer queen. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70Mach03 12 Report post Posted January 16, 2011 ........... After that I used por-15 on the floor boards both top and bottom. Then shot it with a tie-coat primer. Then shot it with DP-74 epoxy primer. Then shot it with about six cans of good quality 3M undercoating. I think it's pretty well protected. And it IS going to be a driver, no trailer queen. Bruce (LOL) When we've reached the end of time and dinosaurs once more roam the earth as mankind has finally died off.....your Mustang will still sit there as a tribute to what once was .....(LOL) That's what I like about this website, I feel it's members enjoy driving their classic Mustangs more that just looking at them. Most difenitely, enjoy your ride. :clap: 1 TexasEd reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted January 16, 2011 70MACH03, You are very correct!!!!!!!! I want to drive mine and yet have it outlast me. I think I may have accomplished that. LMAO!!! Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 16, 2011 Had mine blasted inside and out, but didnt blast the body, then Shot POR15 inside and out, let it dry for a week, then scuffed with 320, and shot with tie coat primer as well, then shot a layer of Lizard skin inside and out, let it dry for about a week, THEN Scuffed it with 220, and shot another coat of POR 15 mainly for the looks and that nice shine.....Mine will be a driver as well. The only problem with going to this extreme with out coatings is that if you decide to change something under the car like I did when i added Sub frame connectors, you have to grind it off and do your welding, then reapply the stuff to make it look nice again LOL. Lesson here is to do any fabrication/Welding you want BEFORE you coat it. I would say in your case if you can find some one to come out and blast it for you like i did "cost me 300.00 bucks and the guy came to my house and did it" then just shoot you a coat of POR 15 on it and that will be all the protection you need, i would suggest some undercoating in the wheel wells tho. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted January 16, 2011 I just sprayed the bottom of mine with Chassis Saver paint (by Magnet Paint) which is equivalent to POR 15. I will never show my car competitively and I like to drive it. But it's only a weekend warrior. It's garaged and will never be driven in the snow or rain. So with the paint I sprayed on it, that's far better protection than it had from the factory and will last longer than I'll live. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Project69 10 Report post Posted January 17, 2011 I've never been a fan of POR-15 only because if it cracks or gets scraped bad enough it will hold moisture to the metal. It creates pockets that you cant see until its too late. I like a good enamel rust inhibiting paint myself. I am using Krylon on my car. I have used it on truck frames before and had awesome results. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 3M undercoating. Great stuff. put 12 cans on mine. 2 mexicruiser and Caseyrhe reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sidthing 10 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 Sometimes I get a bad taste in my mouth for certain things, for example I was going to paint my car grabber blue, until I got into stripping the many layers of paint off and grabber blue was one previous color. I would have swore that someone had found imron in grabber blue. I didn't even want to see that color blue for almost a year after that headache. I'm at that point now with the undercoating. I've been battling removing multiple coatings of undercoating, and I don't want to put any back on there to deal with the next time I tear the car apart. I'd love to have a dozen 69 fastbacks, so I can have all the different options on different cars so as to not over load one car, but I figure if build it one way for a while then a few years down the road tear it apart and rebuild it differently it'd be cheaper in the long run. One other thing I'm curious about, it looks as though some of the sheet metal under my car is galvanized!? At first I thought someone might have galvanized pieces they replaced, but some have Ford numbers stamped into them. It's a San Jose car, are the fumes getting to me or was that something that anyone has heard of Ford doing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
9RO1M 12 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 We must be on the same drugs because some of the metal on the inside floor where it comes up to the door jams were also galvanised,also a san jose car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) when i media blasted mine, i noticed the rockers, front floor extensions, rear frame rails had a zinc or galvanized coating to them. maybe the rear torque box too. i personally don't like undercoating. it looks good when you spray it, but that's about it. it's too hard to make it look black again after some dust. plus undercoating or applying sound deadener to the entire undercarriage looks like someone is trying to cover something up. spraying some in the rear wheel wells and front wheel well is a must, just in case the tires grab some rocks and throw it up the fender. besides that, i like paint. easily to wipe down and clean. i also don't like reading about the number of layers some are applying. it just sounds like it will chip way to easy because of the thickness. it seems around here that i'm in the minority when it comes to spraying two part topcoats. i don't understand why. it's the most scratch resistance paint. my car will be a driver although i won't be driving it when the roads are dirty or salty. it's a classic car. i have a car that will be driven in the not so nice conditions. Edited January 19, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon 1 first69 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 As you guys have noticed, some of the underside parts are zinc coated to prevent rust. My car is also a S.J. car and it's the same as yours. Ford went to great extremes to rust proof portions of their car's bodies. But dropped the ball on say the floor pans. Go figure. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 19, 2011 Buckeye I like the simple smooth look of your undercarriage, but not all of us are as competent with a welder as you are LOL...I replaced one full length floor pan, and hid 90 percent of the weld with building and filling it and grinding, but decided it was time to move on and just cover some of the stuff it would have taken me a bit longer to finish making perfect.....my thought is this....I put the por 15 for rust prevention, then the lizard skin for sound deadening, then anoer coat of por 15 because it's almost impervious to anything short of a nuclear blast LOL....I applied por 15 to an inner fender then did hammer and dolly work on the thing, and beat on it for about 4 hours and only chipped it in a few small spots, that is what made my mind up LOL.....but I wanted to do a 2 part epoxy at first but I knew my car was not perfect enough underneath like yours it to make it look really pretty. Cudos to you for that nice undercarriage, I envy it ;) I'm going to try building my door gaps up wih welding rods this weekend like you did. Wish me luck Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chillininnh 21 Report post Posted January 19, 2011 (edited) DTM epoxy primer topped with Eastwood chassis black. Eastwood rubberized undercoating in the wheel houses and behind the fenders and valences. Edited January 19, 2011 by chillininnh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 19, 2011 Are those home made adjustable strut rods I see on there Chillin? reason i ask is i built my own and they loo like that ...have the same tubes....a friend bought some from a manufacturer, and his tubes are much thicker metal than ours appear to be, i just wanted to know if you have run your car yet and how well the bars are holding up. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chillininnh 21 Report post Posted January 19, 2011 The strut rods were part of the Ron Morris coil over kit. The car hasn't been down the road yet so I can't help you there. Everything on the car has been upgraded/refreshed since the car was last roadworthy so I'm not sure I'll recognize her lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayru 17 Report post Posted January 19, 2011 Chillin, are you running a Z bar with your manual TCP rack? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chillininnh 21 Report post Posted January 19, 2011 No Z-bar Jay, I'm using a Modern Driveline clutch cable. I'm half expecting to end up with a hydraulic clutch because I am running long tube headers....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted January 20, 2011 Galvanized definately on the rockers and rear rails at least. I always wondered if it was certain assembly plants etc. but I have seen on on cars from severl plants now. You just need a clean car where it hasnt oxidized off from salt and abrasion. On cars from Arizona, Texas, etc. I have seen the rear rails where they look practically new and no undercoating ever applied just the factory galvanization. I am still up in the air about my undercarriage finishes. I am getting back to the 70 coupe project next month and should have some updates. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted January 20, 2011 I painted mine body color on the bottom side usisng basecoat/clearcoat. A little over the top for some but I wanted it to look like candy from the bottom side. I left factory undercoat in the wheel wells and will line the inside with sound deadener. As little as the car will be driven, this is the route I decided on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted January 20, 2011 Haven't done anything yet to the rest of the underside, but I have tried coating the inside of the back wheel wells with melted rubber! LOL! 2 TexasEd and Tnstratofam reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mick 0 Report post Posted February 1, 2021 I have decided to just wire buff the underside of my 69 then a rust preventer maybe black Rustolium then rubberised sound deadener. Going to be a weekend drive. Going to Rustolium the inside then the silver bituminous insulation. Hopefully this will be sufficient for protection and road noise. Mick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted February 7, 2021 well I didn't see this this listed, so I'm going to throw it out there. I got rid of all rust, and primed and re-painted the spots. Then I cleaned everything well with lacquer thinner lightly - it removes oil and softens up the paint a little. then I used rattle can truckbed liner. The stuff I used left a very hard finish, and it seems tough as nails. It's been about 4-5 yrs now, and I'm very pleased with the results - it doesn't seem to hold dirt very much. It made a nice even coating underneath too that hides blemishes. I put sound deadening on the inside. Anyway, I've ben really happy with the results, and would recommend it for a simpler durable solution. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted February 8, 2021 Colar epoxy inside and out after sealing all gaps and over lap panels Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted February 10, 2021 U-Pol Raptor bedliner. 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
