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Making the right choice on suspension

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I purchased a one owner from Calf. Starting restoration. I would like to replace front /rear for low profile good response steering. I have read threads on mods for suspension and three names come up quite abit: Opentrackers, Laural Mountain, Global West. If anyone has input of the three I would appreciate a response. Thank You

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Global west is good but don't forget TCS and Ron Morris those are both very good quality and reputable buisness if your looking for suspension parts. Laural Mountain is a business who make classic mustang parts they mostly deal with OEM suspension parts though.

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Im just installing a TCP rear suspension with coil overs and the fab 9 rear housing on a 67 fastback.The install is very easy and the quality is the best Ive ever worked with.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread, but How were the Total Control Products rear? I was thinking about getting it.

 

 

Also, i would go TCP bfed. Thats what i've been looking into at least...

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Thanks for the input. I read several treads talking about Opentrackers. Any opinions?

 

Quality products, John is a great guy to deal with, give him a call and talk to him about what you want out of the car. He won't sell you something to just make a buck. If you are looking to go with a coilover setup I would talk to Shaun at Street or Track about his setup. He is another great guy to deal with.

 

http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/

 

http://www.streetortrack.com/

Edited by Grabber70Mach

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I have the Total Cost Involved front suspension with power rack and went with the Heidts 4 Link for the rear. Installations and technical support were good for both companies. I'm very happy with the installation.

Edited by Melody
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If you are going to use upper and lower control arm suspension, go with the 1 inch Arning/Shelby drop on the upper control arm. Open Tracker spring perches and adjustable strut rod.

Any of the above mentioned vendors sell quality parts, depends on how deep are your pockets $$$.

Grabber70Mach provided you with great links for your suspension ideas.

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When you mention the Shelby drop, are you referring to dropping the upper control arm an inch? I did that with my 65 fastback using stock type control arms and it doesn't look right, too much negative camber. It now has the same look as the cars that have a coil cut off the springs. After I did it as well, my dad mentioned that you need special wedge shaped spacers for the ball joints to keep from eventually breaking the ball joint studs. I haven't put many miles on it, but it definitely looks as though the inside tread is going to wear prematurely as well. If I didn't hate compressing springs so much I would have relocated the control arms back to their stock locations.

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When you mention the Shelby drop, are you referring to dropping the upper control arm an inch? I did that with my 65 fastback using stock type control arms and it doesn't look right, too much negative camber. It now has the same look as the cars that have a coil cut off the springs. After I did it as well, my dad mentioned that you need special wedge shaped spacers for the ball joints to keep from eventually breaking the ball joint studs. I haven't put many miles on it, but it definitely looks as though the inside tread is going to wear prematurely as well. If I didn't hate compressing springs so much I would have relocated the control arms back to their stock locations.

 

The wedges are only required if you go more than 1" on the Shelby drop. Back in the Day Shelby tried a 1 1/2 or more inch drop, it gave better performance but snapped ball joints because of the angle. The wedge kits were created to fix that.

 

But for a street car, there's no reason to drop more than an inch.

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When you mention the Shelby drop, are you referring to dropping the upper control arm an inch? I did that with my 65 fastback using stock type control arms and it doesn't look right, too much negative camber. It now has the same look as the cars that have a coil cut off the springs. After I did it as well, my dad mentioned that you need special wedge shaped spacers for the ball joints to keep from eventually breaking the ball joint studs. I haven't put many miles on it, but it definitely looks as though the inside tread is going to wear prematurely as well. If I didn't hate compressing springs so much I would have relocated the control arms back to their stock locations.

 

The drop is supposed to increase neg camber as the suspension compresses by changing the pivot location of the upper arm. I'm not sure but I think the front suspension has to be realigned to factory settings after the drop and the performance gain is from the changed geometry. I have the Global West neg camber upper arms so I'm not sure about just doing the drop.

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I have the Total Cost Involved front suspension with power rack and went with the Heidts 4 Link for the rear. Installations and technical support were good for both companies. I'm very happy with the installation.

 

How well does it handle and ride now ? Interested in the TCI package for mine .

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