strokedwindsor 11 Report post Posted January 13, 2011 once i get my stroker dynoed and ready i need to upgrade my brakes. i bought baer brakes for my car a few yrs back still in the box. 11'' front discs and caipers. it came with master cyclinder and new brake lines also. i think i need 70 front spindles? im thinking of using this kit i got from Baer brakes. anybody use these? how was it to install? or should i go with something else?? thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trinitys 134 Report post Posted January 14, 2011 you use whatever spindle the hub was ordered for. if you ordered them for a '69 with drum fronts, you use them on the old drum spindles yadda yadda.....get the idea? you really need to also call baer with that question also. for $1000 i would think their customer support could answer that question no prob. The master will be tight on a power brake car. there isn't much clearance between the shock tower and the booster. I actually put a small dent in the shock tower for clearance. make sure you adjust the push rod correctly too. Its been several years since i put mine on but it was real straight forward! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strokedwindsor 11 Report post Posted January 14, 2011 ok thanks. i have to dig out the box and read the directions. been a few yrs since i bought the brakes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trinitys 134 Report post Posted January 14, 2011 I have all of my install pictures if you want to see any of them, let me know. It was really straight forward though, but post or pm me if you have any questions, i'll try to help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted January 14, 2011 I would assume that because you have a Mach 1, it came with factory power discs. If that is the case, why are you making the change? Better stopping power? I have factory front discs on mine, and they work fine 99% of the time. I wonder if in a hard brake emergency, though, if I could brake hard enough to lock up the wheels. Is that your reason? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strokedwindsor 11 Report post Posted January 14, 2011 yes factory Disc brakes on the 69. though they werent made to stop a 550 HP motor? i dont want any surprise's when i have to stop! im sure if i install all new factory brakes they would be ok? but i like to stop this thing in a hurry just in case. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 15, 2011 Its amazing what a really good set of performance pads can do for a stock disc brake set up, and yes you should be able to lock them up if you strand on them.....Its really knid of funny to me that i have had cars in the past with power drums that would put your head in the dash board by pushing them just a little too hard LOL, they seem to have a tendancy to lock up easier than disc brakes, due in part to having more surface contact area, thus performing IMHO better than many disc set ups, but they simply cannott compete with discs because they overheat easy and glaze drums etc.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manley 13 Report post Posted January 15, 2011 I would assume that because you have a Mach 1, it came with factory power discs. If that is the case, why are you making the change? Better stopping power? I have factory front discs on mine, and they work fine 99% of the time. I wonder if in a hard brake emergency, though, if I could brake hard enough to lock up the wheels. Is that your reason? Non-power drum brakes were standard on the Mach 1's. Unfortunately. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted January 15, 2011 though they werent made to stop a 550 HP motor? what does HP have to do with braking? isn't it really a function of mass and speed? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strokedwindsor 11 Report post Posted January 15, 2011 Kind of what i meant ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted January 17, 2011 MikeStang, you made the comment of what a difference a good set of pads could make. I am using the standard aftermarket things, nothing special. Do they really make that much difference? Maybe that is all I need? I also probably would not hurt to get new discs without all the grooves? Do you have experience with better pads making a difference? Which would you recommend? Thanks Danno Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 Well dan I have had a lot of exp with trying different pads on many diff vehicles, as I managed a few shops in our area, and thus did brake jobs on anything from a Lexus to a vw bug.....most folks that take their cars to a shop to have the work done will just opt for what ever pads the shop choses to use, and in the case of a lot of shops, they will give you a lifetime warranty on your pads for a few bucks more because they know the cheep price of junk pads will usually offset the cost of replacing them down he road, not to mention they get you back in for other services, like turning the rotors, new bearings, etc...which is not part of the standard lifetime brake job...it's just the pads lol.....anyhow most folks just opt for semi metallic pads...these pads generally do pretty good for the average driver, but the down side is usually a ton of brake dust, and they are harder on your rotors, but are more forgiving on break in......the next thing offered is a full organic pad...don't remember what they are composed of, but they are usuall a good mid range pad that produces hardly any brake dust, and they are rotor friendly, and provide better stopping power in my opinion than the regular semi metallic....the down side to these is cost, along with brake fade under extreme braking conditions, on and off the brakes hard as you would exp during auto cross, and they are not as forgiving in the break in period, meaning you can glaze them easier. The next offering would be your ceramic pads, they also have composite/ ceramic pads as well as i recall, then I believe I have seen Kevlar and Kevlar composite pads.......the ceramic pads are good all the way around but they wear about as fast as a full organic pad, but are superb in stopping power as are the kevlar pad or so I am told, I have never used the kevlar pads, they are too high priced for my taste........I would say a good set of ceramic pads qor full organic would make a noticeable difference for you as well as having your rotors turned....for a few bucks more most of the parts places now sale stock replacement slotted performance rotors too, so you could go that route......I like the Green STuff pads myself, or pads from Wagner in a ceramic are good as well............my friends Mach 1 was having stoppong issues, we realized the pads were glazed, so I took them off and scuffed them on some rough concrete to brake the glaze and reinstalled them...just doing this made a big difference....so he decided to have the rotors turned and get some new performance pads, now the car will lock the front wheels where It would not before so i would say it was a worthwhile gain. If your really pushing the car hard and braking hard, it would even be worth the time and money to upgrade to a dot 5 brake fluid, simply because the boiling point is higher. People have no clue how hot their brake fluid actually gets even with normal in town driving. Expect to spend 50-100 bucks on pads....stay away from auto zone semi metallic pads if you can.....I believe they sale Wagner tho in a higher line, but they may have to order them....but then again not all semi metallic are created equal either ;p I prefer to use napa or car quest parts myself when I can.....look up thte EBC green stuff pads tho. See what they offer win the way of a ceramic or full organic...he'll their semi metallic even do damn good in my book ;) Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 Wow! A lot of great information, this is really appreciated. You seem to know what you are talking about, that is very helpful. Generally I just drive around town, no big deal. But all it will take is one panic stop that I cannot make, and I end up in a wreck. $500 spent to prevent it is well worth the bucks. I will try a panic stop next summer and see if I can lock the wheels, but I doubt it. If I cannot, new pads and rotors will then be in order, from those you recommended. Thanks again Danno Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strokedwindsor 11 Report post Posted January 18, 2011 Good infro.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
428 Cobra Jet 10 Report post Posted February 3, 2011 (edited) Buddy, I have a 70 fastback with a FE 427, 4speed, bla, bla, I also have factory discs / power booster, and rear drums, I upgraded to a 4 piston Kelsey Hayes up front (they fit in 15 "wheels) and 11"single piston (they also fit in 15"rears) with performance pads and fluid, steel brake lines. No braking dramas. However bigger diameter wheels open up better options, if that is your focus. I only ever wanted 15"dia wheels, so I'm happy, maybe i'll go to 2 or 4 spot calipers on the rears, however presently I just don't need them. Oh by the way, locking up brakes, front, back, whatever is no test of braking performance. Thats a whole different discussion. Edited February 3, 2011 by 428 Cobra Jet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted February 4, 2011 I agree that locking up the brakes is no measure of braking performance, but this was one of the problems we were having, and i believe one of the problems the arthor mentioned, which is the problem i was shooting at giving him a bit of insight into. But i can say this, if your car WONT lock the brakes, then in my humble opinion something is not right with your braking system, and thus needs some adjusting/fixing. Generally the stock brakes are more than sufficient for a bit of spirited driving, but if you intend to do some hard running ie road course time you may need some upgrades...... Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted February 4, 2011 Another option would be to do the 13" Cobra brake conversion. Its nice to have OEM components in case you need a part locally. You'd need 17" wheels though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
