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Rcodenewf

Another 70 Mustang Convert Restoration

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Hello Bill. Actually the car came from Manitoba originally...spent much of its' life out in BC ..then returned to Manitoba.

 

Initially the car came to me for an engine rebuild, but upon checking the floor etc it was evident that this car had a ton of hidden rust.

 

Off it went to the bodyshop and eventually returned as they did not want to tackle it. So i undertook it as i had just finished my 69 fastback.

 

Here's the link to the buildup so far Bill. Check on the right side of the page and you can go in and have a look at the individual albums.

 

The car was originally gold but the owner wants it Acapulco blue like my car with a white top and white interior.

 

Regards, John

http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/rcodenewf/70%20convertible%20restoration/

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Just finished up the front torque box and toe extension...i'll post some pics soon.

 

The rear torque box is a Scott Drake piece...part # MM102CRH. The sticker on it says 64-70. Written on it in marker is 64-68.

 

Problem is, with it clamped in place the tabs are rougly 3/4 of an inch away from the side of the inner rocker. I'm assuming that for a 69/70 convertible it has to be trimmed?

 

Just making sure i was supplied with the right piece...thanks.

 

Any pics from underneath would be great.

 

I'll search the forum as well........thanks.....John

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Just finished up the front torque box and toe extension...i'll post some pics soon.

 

The rear torque box is a Scott Drake piece...part # MM102CRH. The sticker on it says 64-70. Written on it in marker is 64-68.

 

Problem is, with it clamped in place the tabs are rougly 3/4 of an inch away from the side of the inner rocker. I'm assuming that for a 69/70 convertible it has to be trimmed?

 

Just making sure i was supplied with the right piece...thanks.

 

Any pics from underneath would be great.

 

I'll search the forum as well........thanks.....John

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Thanks! Just got to figure out this rear torque box issue. Looking at the drivers side (original) it would appear that i have to cut the tab at the bottom off thereby letting the side tabs come into contact with the inner rockers........John

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Thanks! Just got to figure out this rear torque box issue. Looking at the drivers side (original) it would appear that i have to cut the tab at the bottom off thereby letting the side tabs come into contact with the inner rockers........John

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Here are some pics of the front pass torque box. As you can see there was quite a gap between the frame rail and one of the tabs even with the top of the TB pushed to the right.

So I measured the gap and cut the flange off and inserted a strip.

Then it worked out ok.

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Here are some pics of the front pass torque box. As you can see there was quite a gap between the frame rail and one of the tabs even with the top of the TB pushed to the right.

So I measured the gap and cut the flange off and inserted a strip.

Then it worked out ok.

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Next came the toe board. I trimmed it down to fit and pulled it down in place with self tapping screws.

 

From the underside i scribed a line around the area so i could butt weld it into place.

 

I cut out a cardboard template of the inner rocker and used it to cut the outline on the toeboard.

 

Rosette welds were completed as well as the butt weld. I also welded it on the outside and ground it down flush to be undetectable once primed. I left as small raised weld on the inside so as not to weaken the weld.

 

Prior to welding the metal was cleaned with brakeclean and acetone and then buzzed with an abrasive disc. Then hit with epoxy primer.

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Next came the toe board. I trimmed it down to fit and pulled it down in place with self tapping screws.

 

From the underside i scribed a line around the area so i could butt weld it into place.

 

I cut out a cardboard template of the inner rocker and used it to cut the outline on the toeboard.

 

Rosette welds were completed as well as the butt weld. I also welded it on the outside and ground it down flush to be undetectable once primed. I left as small raised weld on the inside so as not to weaken the weld.

 

Prior to welding the metal was cleaned with brakeclean and acetone and then buzzed with an abrasive disc. Then hit with epoxy primer.

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Jerr Man: I've had just about every test imaginable and have been poked and prodded :( and so far they can't pinpoint it.

 

They're assuming it is unrelated to my present heart condition but who knows.

 

I'm spending more money on hospital parking than on restorations...lol!

 

I'm hoping to get at the rear torque box tomorrow for a bit. We'll have to see.

 

Thanks for the response and concern.....John

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Jerr Man: I've had just about every test imaginable and have been poked and prodded :( and so far they can't pinpoint it.

 

They're assuming it is unrelated to my present heart condition but who knows.

 

I'm spending more money on hospital parking than on restorations...lol!

 

I'm hoping to get at the rear torque box tomorrow for a bit. We'll have to see.

 

Thanks for the response and concern.....John

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Well, i finally got back at the convertible first taking care of fitment of the rear torque box which out of the box fit terrible. Both came from Scott Drake but were supplied by MR. Mustang.

 

I didn't like the tab on the rear portion of the torque box at the rail so i cut it off and decided to go with a 'fish plate' system which i think is stronger and looks better.

 

As you can see in the pics i drilled a series of holes in the original frame on both sides. Then using a contour gauge i cut a paper template holding it on with magnets. When i was satisfied with the shape, i overlayed it onto some sheetmetal and sprayed some junk red paint i had to create an outline. After cutting it out i fit two pieced on theinside of the orig. frame rail, holding them tightly with clamps while I rosette welded them.

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