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Rcodenewf

Another 70 Mustang Convert Restoration

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I've been debating whether or not to post the pics of my restoration of my friends 70 mustang convertible.

 

Initially the car came to me to rebuild the 351C and the FMX.

Upon removal of the engine the rust was discovered and as we started digging into it the rust issues were huge.

 

The car was taken into a bodyshop where it sat for quite some time. With zero work done on the car the bodyshop decided that they did not want to tackle into it. So....the car came back to me.

 

I've done quite a bit on this car so far so i'll provide the link to my photobucket albumn for anyone that wants to view it.

 

I'll post fresh pics directly on the site as i progress. I believe i can post 5 at a time?

 

Please bear with me as i haven't posted many pics before and i am not a body man.

 

Here's the link:

http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/rcodenewf/70%20convertible%20restoration/

 

The individual repair sections should be on the right hand side of the albumn.

 

If anyone is having trouble viewing the albumn please let me know.

 

Thanks for the space....John

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Very nice work. You've got your hands full with that one. Rust is like the tip of an iceburg, you're only seeing 10% on the surface (LOL). I had a 1970 convertible Mustang back in the 70's and within a couple of years I had holes in the floorpans. Ford didn't put much thought into rust prevention back then. Todays cars are built much better in areas like that. You're doing a great job, thanks for saving another one.

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Welcome! She looks a lot like mine a while back. I didn't see anything that would stop a restoration shop from taking this on besides the fact they want you to give them your house to pay for the work. The door jams are getting rare these days and have to be cut out of a donor, so grab those quick (IMO)

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There are so few 70 convertibles that pretty much any one of them is worth saving at almost any labor or cost I think, maybe not in actual value but certainly to the community so kudos for tackling it and stepping outside of your comfort zone, looks like you are doing a fine and pactical job so far. Too many people give up quickly when hit with the domino affect and find out how bad a car really is when they start what seems like a simple task. Unfortunately the affect never stops, even when this task is done and the body is clean and freshly painted all the little trim pieces that once looked good enough sadly won't look so good anymore againnst a new canvas.

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Thanks guys. I have just finished my 69 fastback and i think it turned out pretty good.

 

I replaced the lower quarters, lower portions of the front fenders, drivers side toe extension, front frame support and battery apron.

 

I did all the bodywork on the car except for paint. I did the engine, trans, diff, all interior etc.

 

Now i've started a resto on this 70 convert.

 

Question: The new inner rockers for this convert arrived and i note that they do not have any tabs at the ends to mate with the torque box etc.

Has anyone ever come across this? I know that the 70-73 rockers are the same according to the book and are 77" in length compared to the 75" of the 65-68 rocker.

 

Thanks guys...

Edited by Rcodenewf

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The outer front portion of the passenger side rocker panel showed signs of cancer so i cut out the offending piece well beyond the rust and fabricated a new one.

 

Next i hope to tackle into the rust at the lower portion of the rt front frame rail where the front support slips over it and the lower torque box attaches.

 

.........John

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Anyone run across this with the 69/70 convert rockers?

 

This inner is roughly 4 inches too long! Has anyone had to cut theirs.

 

My understanding is that up to 68 the inners are 75 inches in length and from 69 -73 they are 77 inches....these measure 77 inches.

 

Rockers are open at both ends with no tabs whatsoever.

Isn't the inner rocker supposed to have that 90 degree tab to mate up with the tab on the torque box?

 

Any help is appreciated....John

Edited by Rcodenewf
add pic

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I think i've figured out the inner rocker issue.

 

I'm trying to figure out a way to coat the inside of these rockers as i didn't want to weld them in without some sort of protection on the inside. Several methods come to mind.

 

Once the inner is flushed out with brake clean or some sort of degreaser:

- a small paint brush taped onto a long handle to get inside

 

- taking the rockers to a shop that repairs gas tanks and have them fill the inside with that sealer by capping off one end and then dumping it out.

 

-some sort of a flexible hose or wand of tubing with small holes drilled in it to spray in a radial fashion.

 

Any other ideas??/thanks...John

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There are so few 70 convertibles that pretty much any one of them is worth saving at almost any labor or cost I think, maybe not in actual value but certainly to the community

 

That's not what you said about mine Pak! :glare:

Edited by Fordrevhead
bad bad typo, lol

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I used the internal frame coating on my front frame rails. I used a videoscope to see how well it covered and I was impressed. I did go back in and touch up a couple of spots that looked a little light on coverage. I'd look at adapting a more rigid tube to the can. The supplied tube is flexible and it may be difficult to control inside the rocker.

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Hello guys:

I haven't had a chance to post some new pics due to health issues.

 

I've made a bit of headway since the last few pics were posted.

 

The lower rear portion of the passenger side frame rail was rotten where the front floor support attaches. So i cut that those affected pieces out, made new ones of the correct gauge and welded them in flush and welded them on the inside for strength.

 

Inside the frame i wirebrushed it, cleaned it with brakekleen and painted it with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. Outside i just hit it with epoxy metal etch to keep it from rusting as i will blast the entire car after all repair work is done.

 

More pics to follow....John

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Inside the passenger side kick panel I cut out a rusted area and used it as a template to cut a new piece out of matching gauge metal.

 

I coated the back with weld thru primer and butt welded it into place.

 

That rust area is finished. Later i'll clean it at the back and seal it up for good.

Edited by Rcodenewf

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Above the pass rear torque box I found more rust.

 

I wire wheeled the area and cleaned it with roloc discs and cut out the rot.

 

Using the pieces as templates i reproduced them as best as i could with my shrinker/stretcher and coated them with weld thru primer.

 

I butt welded in the pieces and finished grinding the surface to blend them in.

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Anyone run across this with the 69/70 convert rockers?

 

This inner is roughly 4 inches too long! Has anyone had to cut theirs.

 

My understanding is that up to 68 the inners are 75 inches in length and from 69 -73 they are 77 inches....these measure 77 inches.

 

....John

 

I havent seen that but it isn't surprising. A lot of the parts vary slightly and they make a "universal" part with a longer die to reduce costs and inventory... so we have to cut them. Trunk drop offs are a good example.

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I just realized i hadn't posted updated pics in a while so here goes:

 

The lower front floor support was degreased, put into position and marked for a series of rosette welds to the side of the frame rail and the bottom.

 

I scuffed the insides of the rail with a scotchbrite pad, degreaser and wiped it down with acetone. Then it was coated with epoxy primer for corrosion resistance and rosette welded.

 

Inside the floor support was also welded up for extra strength.

 

....John

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While attempting to mock up the inner rocker i noticed that the flat portion of the assembly did not reach up far enough in the vent area to properly weld it as the original one was.

 

And while attempting to clamp it to the outer rockers I discovered that the inner rocker assembly had a rougly 1/2 inch bend in it inwards towards the transmission tunnel. Clamping it into postion I could easily see that this was putting stress on the outer rocker.

 

I contacted the manufacturer of these rockers and questioned them on the bend. Their response was that it was purposely welded together with that bend to ' set ' the rockers. ??????

 

Upon examination I came to the conclusion that the rocker 'pulled ' with the heat of welding when they cut the top portion of the rocker assembly and rewelded a flat patch over it to ease entry into the vehicle and take away that sharp 90 degree angle.

 

Anyway... drilled out all the spotwelds, separated the two piece inner, flattened it and welded a strip roughly 17 inches long by 1 1/4 inch to the flat piece to properly locate it on the vent area.

 

That gave me a chance to clean and coat the inner of the rail with epoxy primer.

 

.....John

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