T5 Stock Looking shift handle?

[CFauvel 10]

I am doing the t5 swap in my Mach1 and am looking for the best and cheapest stock looking shift handle for the t5. Currently have a 3spd toploader and want a handle that looks just like that.

 

Not the one with the fake lockout.

 

I would prefer one with SAE threads , but will settle for metric threads.

 

I haven't found one that looks like current handle yet, but some that are for the 67-68s are rediculously expensive.

 

Help please

 

Chris

[70mstang 11]

This one is on ebay .. just like the one I have for my 70

 

HURST 5388022 Chrome Shifter Stick Handle for 3668034

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i modified the base of my TKO's shifter to accept the stock 69 handle. i basically took the shifter completely apart, cut the top off, made a base and welded to area i had cut.

 

can you do something similar?

 

 

 

 

[CFauvel 10]

and this solution gets the handle back over to the left.

 

I was going to build my own lever out 5/8" rod, lathe it down for the threads at the top , and grind down the end to a half circle to attach to the T5 shifter. I would bend in a jog to the left at the shifter and back to vertical whilst under the boot. And get the piece chromed.

 

But this is way better.

 

How much did you have to cut off the stock shifter?

 

Now that I see that I am debating making something that attached to the stock T5 shifter, but to the left is the 69 mounting. Thus not boogering up the stock t5 shifter, and allowing my original shift lever.

 

Thanks so much for this.

 

 

i modified the base of my TKO's shifter to accept the stock 69 handle. i basically took the shifter completely apart, cut the top off, made a base and welded to area i had cut.

 

can you do something similar? /quote]

Edited November 15, 2010 by CFauvel

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i didn't use the stock TKO shifter.

 

I purchased a low profile, offset shifter from Modern Driveline, because i have the TKO up as high as I can. the stock TKO shifter was hitting the tunnel (i didn't want to notch the spot in the tunnel and i didn't want interference with the stock boot).

 

If you decide to get a low profile shifter from modern driveline, they will weld the offset in any direction if you ask. i had them weld it in a direction that he said wasn't typical. however it didn't matter because i cut the offset piece off anyways.

 

the round bracket that you see in the picture is as low as i could go and not have interference with the low parts of the shifter while shifting.

 

and because i have the shifter sitting up so close to the tunnel, i needed to keep the base as low as i could go so it wouldn't hit the boot in any gear.

 

this was a very easy mod, and you don't really need to make it pretty since it's covered up for the most part.

 

here is a picture of the low profile offset, modern driveline shifter before i cut it up.

 

[CFauvel 10]

Thanks Buckey for the update, I will post pictures of my T5 - 69 Toploader adapter

when I'm done. Right now I'm trying to find a place that sells the T5 tail housing bushing, a place that sells the steel bearing retainer alonf with the front shaft seal....

 

Though I don't drive the Mach1 all that often, I don't want the shaft that the throwout bearing rides on, to wear out and get boogered up, like I have seen in pictures.

 

Also I don't want to booger up my new slip yoke with the current tail housing bushing....man this is not an easy part to find.

 

Everyone keeps asking about them on the forums, the magazine mentions you can get one from the Ford parts department or regular parts store...the latter doesn't seem to be true...I'll call Ford tomorrow.

 

How thick is the metal you used to mount the stock 69 lever?

 

HomeDepot doesn't have stock any thicker than 1/8", If I used that I may have to weld some nuts on the underside, since 1/8" wouldn't have enough threads.

 

 

I'll keep you all posted

 

i didn't use the stock TKO shifter.

 

I purchased a low profile, offset shifter from Modern Driveline, because i have the TKO up as high as I can. the stock TKO shifter was hitting the tunnel (i didn't want to notch the spot in the tunnel and i didn't want interference with the stock boot).

 

If you decide to get a low profile shifter from modern driveline, they will weld the offset in any direction if you ask. i had them weld it in a direction that he said wasn't typical. however it didn't matter because i cut the offset piece off anyways.

 

the round bracket that you see in the picture is as low as i could go and not have interference with the low parts of the shifter while shifting.

 

and because i have the shifter sitting up so close to the tunnel, i needed to keep the base as low as i could go so it wouldn't hit the boot in any gear.

 

this was a very easy mod, and you don't really need to make it pretty since it's covered up for the most part.

 

here is a picture of the low profile offset, modern driveline shifter before i cut it up.

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

i think the piece of steel was around 3/8" thick. i've got quite a bit of scrap laying around to choose from.

 

i would guess 1/8" would have been too thin for mine. the stock shifter handle uses bolts surrounded with little rubber bushings for vibration damping.

[Fordrevhead 29]

If you havent found them yet this place has the bushings and seals:

 

http://www.txmotorsports.com/

 

Authorized dealer for Tremec, etc.

[CFauvel 10]

Here is what I came up with after seeing previous poster's shifter. Made out of 1/4" angle iron and milled to look nice.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

very nice! i wish i had a mill...

 

did you test fit it with the boot? i'm just wondering if you'll have any interference issues?

[70Mach03 12]

I used a Hurst Shifter for T-5's and then went to Summit for a Hurst T-shift handle that looks "era" correct.

 

[CFauvel 10]

the trans is still not in yet. My buddy's father is bulding out a 120' by 30' garage with a lift, and wants me to wait for that so that we can use the lift.

 

I am very afraid that indeed the vertical shift mount on the standard t5 will interfere with 5th gear and reverse positions...I am not too keen on cutting the trans tube to make room....however the cut will be below the boot and would not show.

 

Alternatively I could cut the vertical shift mount and weld my piece like you did.

 

I don't have a milling machine, but I met an elderly gentleman who did and he was able to do this for me after he already re-did a 6mm diameter pinion gear for my great grandfaher's mcroscope. Machining is so interesting to me.

 

very nice! i wish i had a mill...

 

did you test fit it with the boot? i'm just wondering if you'll have any interference issues?

[Stanger69 16]

This is what I used in mine. Fits perfect to TKO. The problem with the HURST is what you have stating. In 5Th gear and reverse the shifter binds or pitches the boot to the console. This one eliminates all the problems and keeps 5th gear close to your body(you don't have to streach to reach 5th gear). Grab a leather shifter boot and you are in business. I got my from lokar performance. I wished I had a pic of it. best of luck, hope this helps.

 

http://www.reenmachine.com/shop/product.php?productid=16151&cat=0&page=1

 

here is a pic:

http://www.reenmachine.com/albums/index.php/1967_mustang_convertible/0236.jpg?action=big&size=original&fromthumbnail=true

Edited February 23, 2011 by Stanger69

[CFauvel 10]

very nice! i wish i had a mill...

 

did you test fit it with the boot? i'm just wondering if you'll have any interference issues?

 

Note: subject line is "T5 is in finally..."

 

I didn't test fit with the boot as the tranny wasn't in. I broke down and got my mechanic to put the tranny in as he has lifts.

 

My bracket piece works nearly perfectly, I can shift through all the gears just fine, but in first and second the boot rubs too much on the left side of the console. And the vertical piece of the original shifter can be barely seen through the rubber boot.

 

If I cut the vertical piece of the original shifter and cut the vertical portion of my piece and weld the mounting surface to what is left on the shifter like you did it will be perfect.

 

I'll post some pictures.

 

The bad news is my second gear is having issues...at least synchro is bad, and according to my transmission repairman, second gear must be replaced when the synchro is replaced and the gear is grinding.

 

The biggest issue I have above that is the pedal height of the clutch.

 

we used a 1968 289 flywheel and clutch kit to fit under the T5 bellhousing.

 

When the mechanic adjusted the clutch linkage to get the pedal returned to normal height, he said that pushing the pedal in would cause the pressure plate to be pushed in too far. So he adjusted the linkage so normal rest level is closer to the floor and I can pull the pedal all the way up with my foot.

 

 

My original flywheel is 164 tooth 11", the new one is 157 tooth (10" or 10.5").

 

In my T5 bellhousing I used that fulcrum adapter to place the clutch

Is using the 289 clutch my issue? what clutch kit do you normally use on a T5 conversion? Would my 351w pressure plate work? Would that get my linkage to be set right? Damn I wish I had a lift.

 

Any help will be helpful

 

Chris

Edited January 13, 2012 by CFauvel
subject line is mispelled

[Powershift 19]

http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/cart.cgi?db=mddata.txt&category=shifter&merchant=moderndriveline

[Mike65 475]

I used a Hurst Shifter for T-5's and then went to Summit for a Hurst T-shift handle that looks "era" correct.

 

 

70Mach03,

The Hurst shifter lever you used do you remember the part number?. I found 2 different ones for the Fox Mustang with the T-5, part numbers 580035, & 580036.

www.hurst-shifters.com/?wpsc_product_category=comp-stick-kits