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Junior2561

Mach 1 Project I started...

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thanks Mike,

I usually pull out the Mrs. car to work on mine when i am kicking up a lot of dust, but it is JUST deep enough for the mach to fit in there. I'm going to rearrange this summer and mov my tool box and work bench so i can gain a few more inches in the back.

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At the top where the plate mounts, i'm going to use a set of small J brackets. Thats the plan right now but i may find a better idea once i get into it a little more. I'm trimming 3/8ths off the bracket that holds the bumpers on it, so that will not stick out. Great question though. Those are the little items that consume your time.

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small update - i tried to get some time in on the car over this past 4 day weekend, but we are also in the process of building a house. So it killed my production time.

 

Headlight buckets are fit up, and fillered up to fit. The hood was skim coated with icing because when i blocked the e-coat, i found some high and low spots.

 

Sorry the pics suck, my Droid hasn't been working that great lately, thinking of going iPhone.

 

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Big Mile stone - I hit primer with the car this weekend. I hammered on two good coats of Evercoat FeatherFill....I tested a spot with 180 and this stuff sands like butter.

 

The car is going to hit the back burner for a little while though, we have put our house up forsale and i need to keep the garage neat and presentable lol

 

I will be getting the heads cleaned up and back together though, so i can put them on the engine.

 

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After two coats of Black Featherfill

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Getting the E7TEs cleaned up. I'll lap the valves, put on new seals and get them back together

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Did you put down a coat of etch primer on the bare metal spots first? I am not sure about the paints these days but back when I had my van painted 13 years ago the knob who did it did not etch prime it first. Within 5 years surface rust was breaking out in the middle of panels all over the place. When I painted it recently I had to strip it completely back to bare metal and start again. Another dumb ass thing he did was wet sand the bondo!

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ouch, wet sanding the bond would without a doubt kick your backside. I could see where it would just hold the moisture in there.

For Featherfill, it is not required to etch unless you are doing a large, bare metal panel. So if the hood was completely untouched, bare metal, than I would have.

Its almost like a liquid icing - sands really smooth, self levels, doesn't shrink up.

 

This morning though, I did start lapping the valves in the heads. I figure by friday the heads will be ready to go back together.

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ouch, wet sanding the bond would without a doubt kick your backside. I could see where it would just hold the moisture in there.

For Featherfill, it is not required to etch unless you are doing a large, bare metal panel. So if the hood was completely untouched, bare metal, than I would have.

Its almost like a liquid icing - sands really smooth, self levels, doesn't shrink up.

 

This morning though, I did start lapping the valves in the heads. I figure by friday the heads will be ready to go back together.

 

Cool, the new paints are certainly better than the old school stuff.

 

Yea there was some nice surface rust hiding under the bondo. Had to take it all out and start again. Luckily I am good at sculpting bondo. :yes:

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that would be a night mare!

 

I love looking at the car all flat black looking, almost makes me not want to sand on it lol

 

Reviewing my progress, I think I will be better off getting the car on all fours, engine bay painted and motor dropped in. I'm deathly afraid of getting the car painted and then nicking it up while installing hard parts.

 

Valves are all lapped on the heads, they should be going back together completed over the next week. Then they will get painted and installed on the shortblock.

 

REALLY considering going 4spd also. T5s just break too easy and I do not have $2500 to drop on a TKO setup.

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Getting into more of the mechanical end of it...

 

Heads are back together and ready to bolt on. I lapped the valves and installed new seals. No porting or anything fancy.

 

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I'm also starting to bust apart the front suspension. The lower control arms will be replaced, along with the uppers. A new shaft kit for the uppers is $60 and a new control arm is $70...who knows.

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I did run into a snag installing the head gasket, so I'm researching if this is correct. It looks like the gasket is cover two coolant passages. I know the engine needs blown off...I plan to paint the engine once the heads are on and everything is buttoned up.

 

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i kind of thought the same thing - They are Felpro's and they are listed for this engine. I got them from Summit.

 

One thing i did not do, was come pare the gasket to the head yet. Which i would expect the he to match the block.

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