Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 22, 2011 thanks. I am behind where i was hopping to be at this time, but If i can be in epoxy by the end of the month, and start doing the 'body work'...perfect world its in 2k primer by october and i can sand my sack off all winter, finish some welding and patches (cowl, floors, battery tray) then paint it come spring. lots and lots of work ahead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 22, 2011 thanks. I am behind where i was hopping to be at this time, but If i can be in epoxy by the end of the month, and start doing the 'body work'...perfect world its in 2k primer by october and i can sand my sack off all winter, finish some welding and patches (cowl, floors, battery tray) then paint it come spring. lots and lots of work ahead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 I was really hoping to be able to epoxy the top panels of the sheel this weekend, but i do not think thats going to happen now. Too many little things left to do... I was able to put in about 3 hours this past weekend. Pulled the front and rear suspension, with the exception of the front bolts on the rear leaf springs.. I still have some under coating removal to go through and cleaning up whatever metal i did not replace. Again, the goal was to get the top panels epoxied, i can do the underside later on. The roof took up the most time. I stripped it of the surface rust and have some POR rust pitting treatment (Posphoric acid i think is what it really is) to go over the roof and shell before i can be epoxied. I went over the whole roof with a series of web wheels and flap wheels. It is already covered in dust/dirt though Window openings getting cleaned.. pain in the ... Before After And the after picture is still not clean. I need to get a few new wire brushes today. Top cowl panel has to come off so i can get to this mess - found it when i pulled the wiper motor out. Might as well just knock it out now... I started going over the shell with the web wheels and wire wheels, found the rocker panel behind the pass. fender will need cut out and patched. And this is how it sits...the garage is more of a mess than usual, we are getting a new 12x8 shed and i had to move a lot of crap in my work areas. Projects like that are holding me up but, gotta keep the boss happy too... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 I was really hoping to be able to epoxy the top panels of the sheel this weekend, but i do not think thats going to happen now. Too many little things left to do... I was able to put in about 3 hours this past weekend. Pulled the front and rear suspension, with the exception of the front bolts on the rear leaf springs.. I still have some under coating removal to go through and cleaning up whatever metal i did not replace. Again, the goal was to get the top panels epoxied, i can do the underside later on. The roof took up the most time. I stripped it of the surface rust and have some POR rust pitting treatment (Posphoric acid i think is what it really is) to go over the roof and shell before i can be epoxied. I went over the whole roof with a series of web wheels and flap wheels. It is already covered in dust/dirt though Window openings getting cleaned.. pain in the ... Before After And the after picture is still not clean. I need to get a few new wire brushes today. Top cowl panel has to come off so i can get to this mess - found it when i pulled the wiper motor out. Might as well just knock it out now... I started going over the shell with the web wheels and wire wheels, found the rocker panel behind the pass. fender will need cut out and patched. And this is how it sits...the garage is more of a mess than usual, we are getting a new 12x8 shed and i had to move a lot of crap in my work areas. Projects like that are holding me up but, gotta keep the boss happy too... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 You may have already checked, but is your epoxy compatible with the acid etch? Looks like you made a lot of progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 You may have already checked, but is your epoxy compatible with the acid etch? Looks like you made a lot of progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 good question, i will doubt check. the directions say to leave it on for 15 min then wash off with water. i'll check with Dupont tho, it is Dupont's Colar epoxy i am using. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 good question, i will doubt check. the directions say to leave it on for 15 min then wash off with water. i'll check with Dupont tho, it is Dupont's Colar epoxy i am using. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 Every time I check out these rust projects make me feel good about my $2,500 nearly rust free project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted August 31, 2011 I would loved to have bought a rot free Mach, but a sick part of me has always wanted to do a build like this lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted September 6, 2011 Small update - getting that car ready to get blasted. Pulled off the top cowl panel....really didn't want to but i am glad i did. Also, this is an area i have not really posted on, but does this look comon to have the shock tower welded up like this? Upon closer inspection, it almost looks like it might have started to crack where the tower meets the front rail. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted September 6, 2011 nice little discovery on your outer apron. i've seen a number of photos of cars with the shock towers welded like that, however it's not factory. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) well so much for plans....I still have not had a lot of free time to work on the car; between an overloaded schedule and bad weather, i decided to blast the areas that need it, in my garage. I did a trial run this weekend and found out what i was affraid of, i need more air. So i am going to pair two compressors together and that should take care of that. Here are some progress pictures: Seat pans in and then i scuffed it all and washed it down in thinner: After i blast the trans tunnel, i will dress the welds from the underside and touch up wherever is needed I love these containers, i picked this one up from Lowe's, we us them at work every day. Makes life easier: The unmarked bins have unopened packages of fasteners in them that are labeled. Taking off the e-coat on all the outer panels: Blasting Sand and blaster from Menards: Eastwood Helmet, I also wear a resporator: Part of my 'bubble' to blast in: New Tq Box reinforcement plates: Chemical Stripped the Engine bay: Edited October 18, 2011 by Junior2561 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted October 18, 2011 Then i started over it with a cookie wheel. I have a few smaller attachments i am going to use also, but i wanted to have to blast as little as possible. Nice little butcher beating i found. I didn't think very much of it when I first saw the yellow filler, i had seen it on other cars before...untill i hit it with the wire wheel....more patch work... I picked up this EFI truck intake off ebay for $25 SHIPPED!! 89SnailPower hooked me up with the e7 heads and upper intake. There is a company that makes an adapter to run a truck lower and a 5.0 upper: Then there is this beating.... ANY TIPS???!?!? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Secz 26 Report post Posted October 18, 2011 I guess the best way to get the door striker off would be to drill out the mounting screws. You can try a Grabit type screw extractor, but not sure if it will work on screws that big. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70mstang 11 Report post Posted October 18, 2011 I had a similiar problem getting my door strikers off. I drilled out as much as I could and then popped the stiker over the head of the screws. Drenched with penetrating oil and used lock plyers to unscrew em. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerr_man 11 Report post Posted October 18, 2011 I stepped up in drill bits and made sure to go real straight as to not damage the threads than hit what was left with lots of heat and jammed a flat head in there and they came out. would like to say it was easy but so far that has been the biggest PITA on my project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 19, 2011 did everyone who had problems getting the strikers out start with an impact? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted October 19, 2011 Mine were stripped out by the PO. I've just started drilling them out. I should have welded a nut on them though and tried that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lemon Owner 11 Report post Posted October 19, 2011 I used an impact driver but it was denting in the striker panel. I just left them where they were. Luckily my doors line up pretty much perfectly. :laugh: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jerr_man 11 Report post Posted October 20, 2011 i tried the impact first and 3 cans of rust eze and heat and nothing, having to drill them out was my last resort Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted October 24, 2011 Striker bolts removed - had all four out in less then 3 minutes...thanks for the tip! Lower cowl is all patched up and epoxied. I need to open up the collar hole a little more on the right side and seam seal it. Then the top panel can go back on! Over all i am very pleased with what i was able to get done - that is a big moneky off my back getting the lower patched. Now welding the top panel back on will be the next fun project lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted October 25, 2011 nice! the many uses of a welder... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Junior2561 10 Report post Posted October 26, 2011 Seam Sealed the lower cowl - i also seam sealed some of the deeper pitting - i will be painting the cowl with one more coat of epoxy to cover the grey sealer and seal it all up. Upper cowl panel before and after - one coat of epoxy, i need to add one more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted October 27, 2011 Awesomw work. Once the winter is over & I start working on my 69 Coupe again I will have to start a build thread here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites