Gauge problem

[edwards54 15]

I am working on my gauges because the only one that was working was the fuel guage. I ordered a replacement circuit board installed it and now even that isnt working. Is there a common mistake when installing a new board. The flashers work but thats it at this point. Also is there a way to test if I have a good regulator on the back of the gauges?

 

Thanks for the help

 

Bob

[edwards54 15]

I am working on my gauges because the only one that was working was the fuel guage. I ordered a replacement circuit board installed it and now even that isnt working. Is there a common mistake when installing a new board. The flashers work but thats it at this point. Also is there a way to test if I have a good regulator on the back of the gauges?

 

Thanks for the help

 

Bob

[relic1864 10]

Guages are always a big problem to fix. I would order a new circuit board relay switch too so everything would be new back there. Even get all new light bulbs because it isn't fun to take the dash pad and guages all apart more than once. The biggest problem with getting guages to work is being sure one isn't touching the metal of the guage housing. I put black electrical tape around all the guage metal housings to help insulate from the guages touching. If one is touching none will work.

[relic1864 10]

Guages are always a big problem to fix. I would order a new circuit board relay switch too so everything would be new back there. Even get all new light bulbs because it isn't fun to take the dash pad and guages all apart more than once. The biggest problem with getting guages to work is being sure one isn't touching the metal of the guage housing. I put black electrical tape around all the guage metal housings to help insulate from the guages touching. If one is touching none will work.

[69gmachine 15]

It could be something as simple as the connector at the back not being plugged in all the way.

[69gmachine 15]

It could be something as simple as the connector at the back not being plugged in all the way.

[edwards54 15]

relic 1864 suggested to tape around the guage metal housings. Are you reffering to the studs of the guages or the backside of the housing? I am just not sure of what pieces your talking about

 

Thanks again

Bob

[edwards54 15]

relic 1864 suggested to tape around the guage metal housings. Are you reffering to the studs of the guages or the backside of the housing? I am just not sure of what pieces your talking about

 

Thanks again

Bob

[70Mach03 12]

Go here: http://1970mgr.org/_GaugesQuit.htm

 

Lot's of real good info.

[70Mach03 12]

Go here: http://1970mgr.org/_GaugesQuit.htm

 

Lot's of real good info.

[relic1864 10]

I taped around the metal housing where the guages fit in. You can also buy the plastic covers that go over the studs that stick out on the back of the guages. I did that also. The origional guages had a cardboard that went between the 2 studs that stick out on the back of the guages that kept the guage centered to not touch the metal housing. After time these can warp and pull your guage to touch the metal of the instrument housing. CJ pony and the other places sell the plastic stud covers. Its best to try and do everything you can once you have everything apart. It took me 3 tries and many hours to finally get my guages , lights, and blinkers to work.

[relic1864 10]

I taped around the metal housing where the guages fit in. You can also buy the plastic covers that go over the studs that stick out on the back of the guages. I did that also. The origional guages had a cardboard that went between the 2 studs that stick out on the back of the guages that kept the guage centered to not touch the metal housing. After time these can warp and pull your guage to touch the metal of the instrument housing. CJ pony and the other places sell the plastic stud covers. Its best to try and do everything you can once you have everything apart. It took me 3 tries and many hours to finally get my guages , lights, and blinkers to work.

[edwards54 15]

i made anoter attempt and had an interesting response. When the lights were on a few of the gauges worked but with the lights off there was nothing. Could this still be a gauge grounding out?

[edwards54 15]

i made anoter attempt and had an interesting response. When the lights were on a few of the gauges worked but with the lights off there was nothing. Could this still be a gauge grounding out?

[relic1864 10]

Ummm, don't know. I also replaced my light switch because someone on here suggested that the switch could cause guage problems. I tried everything suggested to get mine working.

[relic1864 10]

Ummm, don't know. I also replaced my light switch because someone on here suggested that the switch could cause guage problems. I tried everything suggested to get mine working.

[LindenBruce 27]

Sounds like a possible grounding issue. Check and recheck ALL of your connections. The gauge regulator drops the car's voltage to a manageable 5 volts for the gauges. So if you have 12v in and 5v out, it's working. Bruce

[LindenBruce 27]

Sounds like a possible grounding issue. Check and recheck ALL of your connections. The gauge regulator drops the car's voltage to a manageable 5 volts for the gauges. So if you have 12v in and 5v out, it's working. Bruce

[relic1864 10]

I still think one of the guages is touching the metal housing. Mine did the same thing till I think my 3rd try and many hours of trying to get things to work.

[relic1864 10]

I still think one of the guages is touching the metal housing. Mine did the same thing till I think my 3rd try and many hours of trying to get things to work.

[danno 128]

Sounds like a possible grounding issue. Check and recheck ALL of your connections. The gauge regulator drops the car's voltage to a manageable 5 volts for the gauges. So if you have 12v in and 5v out, it's working. Bruce

 

Bruce is correct, but it is an average of 5 volts, so if you try to measure it with a voltmeter it will be 12 volts sometime and 0 volts sometime. This is true for the OEM voltage regulators. It changes between 12 volts and 0 volts slowly, so put a voltmeter on it and watch the voltage for a minute or so, you should see it change. If you have a new replacement regulator, they probably put out 5 volts all the time.

[danno 128]

Sounds like a possible grounding issue. Check and recheck ALL of your connections. The gauge regulator drops the car's voltage to a manageable 5 volts for the gauges. So if you have 12v in and 5v out, it's working. Bruce

 

Bruce is correct, but it is an average of 5 volts, so if you try to measure it with a voltmeter it will be 12 volts sometime and 0 volts sometime. This is true for the OEM voltage regulators. It changes between 12 volts and 0 volts slowly, so put a voltmeter on it and watch the voltage for a minute or so, you should see it change. If you have a new replacement regulator, they probably put out 5 volts all the time.

[gsxrken 21]

how about gauge back lights that blow the 4a fuse as soon as I put the headlights on?

Does that sound like it's related to the touching gauges to the circuit board?

[gsxrken 21]

how about gauge back lights that blow the 4a fuse as soon as I put the headlights on?

Does that sound like it's related to the touching gauges to the circuit board?

[69RavenConv 286]

Bruce is correct, but it is an average of 5 volts, so if you try to measure it with a voltmeter it will be 12 volts sometime and 0 volts sometime. This is true for the OEM voltage regulators. It changes between 12 volts and 0 volts slowly, so put a voltmeter on it and watch the voltage for a minute or so, you should see it change. If you have a new replacement regulator, they probably put out 5 volts all the time.

 

 

You actually can measure it if you have access to an old analog style meter. It doesn't really swing from 12V to 0, but it swings enough that a digital meter probably won't resolve it (at least mine won't). You can't see it in the pictures but I'm measuring the oil pressure sender connector and the needle is actually swinging about 3V back and forth :scared:

Old school tools for old school cars I suppose.