anyone fitted a new replacement door shell for a 69/70 mustang

[GT350 16]

anyone fitted a new replacement door shell for a 69/70 mustang,if so how was the fit?

[tim42 13]

I used a pair of Dynacorns. Body lines were a good match. There were gap problems but not too bad. Depends on how tight you want your gaps. I did have to hog out the door latch holes to get the latches to fit right. I shaved he door handles so I don't know about them.

[tim42 13]

I used a pair of Dynacorns. Body lines were a good match. There were gap problems but not too bad. Depends on how tight you want your gaps. I did have to hog out the door latch holes to get the latches to fit right. I shaved he door handles so I don't know about them.

[maxum96 32]

My car came with both repo doors. They both need some work at the tops, front and back, to match the contours of the body. Otherwise they're fine.

[maxum96 32]

My car came with both repo doors. They both need some work at the tops, front and back, to match the contours of the body. Otherwise they're fine.

[MikeStang 247]

Bolted mine right on, no real issues other than the door locks, had to take a file and open the holes a bit, but the gaps are perfect and the lines are nice...Dont remember if mine are dynacorn or not tho, but they fit very well.

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Bolted mine right on, no real issues other than the door locks, had to take a file and open the holes a bit, but the gaps are perfect and the lines are nice...Dont remember if mine are dynacorn or not tho, but they fit very well.

Mike

[GT350 16]

Bolted mine right on, no real issues other than the door locks, had to take a file and open the holes a bit, but the gaps are perfect and the lines are nice...Dont remember if mine are dynacorn or not tho, but they fit very well.

Mike

 

mike is there more than one manufacturer for the door shells?

[GT350 16]

Bolted mine right on, no real issues other than the door locks, had to take a file and open the holes a bit, but the gaps are perfect and the lines are nice...Dont remember if mine are dynacorn or not tho, but they fit very well.

Mike

 

mike is there more than one manufacturer for the door shells?

[MikeStang 247]

Pretty sure there are....I no longer have the boxes.....I know they have origional for tooling repop doors, and the lower grade repop doors.....I bought the cheeper doors....I got them from John's Mustangs in Houston Tx.

The only problem i have really had with his parts is the repop hood i got had stripped bold hole and a slight buldge in it.......but he does carry dynacorn stuff as well....thats who made my upper and lower cowl panel

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

Pretty sure there are....I no longer have the boxes.....I know they have origional for tooling repop doors, and the lower grade repop doors.....I bought the cheeper doors....I got them from John's Mustangs in Houston Tx.

The only problem i have really had with his parts is the repop hood i got had stripped bold hole and a slight buldge in it.......but he does carry dynacorn stuff as well....thats who made my upper and lower cowl panel

Mike

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

-very minor fileing to the door lock hole and door latch hole.

 

-contour of the doors didn't match the original fenders. i had to weld material and grind (i won't speak for the quarters, since they were replaced)

 

-the top side body line was sticking out on both doors. i had to work these quite a bit.

 

-the door skin isn't welded to the frame. every time i would shut the door it would lose its alignment. i ended up drilling a hole through the flange every 2-3 inches for a plug weld.

 

-one of the mounting holes for the window rails is slightly off.

 

-the rest is TBD...

 

Mike, sounds like you got your door/fender problems worked out. what was the fix? any pics of your progress?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

-very minor fileing to the door lock hole and door latch hole.

 

-contour of the doors didn't match the original fenders. i had to weld material and grind (i won't speak for the quarters, since they were replaced)

 

-the top side body line was sticking out on both doors. i had to work these quite a bit.

 

-the door skin isn't welded to the frame. every time i would shut the door it would lose its alignment. i ended up drilling a hole through the flange every 2-3 inches for a plug weld.

 

-one of the mounting holes for the window rails is slightly off.

 

-the rest is TBD...

 

Mike, sounds like you got your door/fender problems worked out. what was the fix? any pics of your progress?

[MikeStang 247]

My biggest problem thus far was the tail cap and quarter panel fitment...I had to slowly massage the quarter panel in the back as i welded it on to get hte tail caps to be pretty close, but still gonna need a bit of bondo and some more massaging to make them like i want....And my trunk lid is not anywhere near true on the bottom lip....got it all lined up to match both rear caps and it hangs down lower on one side than the other...so i put a straight edge on it and wouldnt u know it one side is longer than the other :/ oh well......My fender alignment looks pretty good with the doors no that I have played with it a bit more....Just gotta strip the fenders down and get them in some primer and put them back on the car and begin working it....I do however have some issues with teh headlight buckets and the fenders lining up near the bottom, may have to slot the fenders to roll them in some to make the buckets do what i want.

I will get some pics up so yall can see :P

Got to install my new opentracker suspension this weekend IF it all comes in....4.5 Leaf reverse eyes on back order, and the brake kit i ordered is being built :(

Mike

[MikeStang 247]

My biggest problem thus far was the tail cap and quarter panel fitment...I had to slowly massage the quarter panel in the back as i welded it on to get hte tail caps to be pretty close, but still gonna need a bit of bondo and some more massaging to make them like i want....And my trunk lid is not anywhere near true on the bottom lip....got it all lined up to match both rear caps and it hangs down lower on one side than the other...so i put a straight edge on it and wouldnt u know it one side is longer than the other :/ oh well......My fender alignment looks pretty good with the doors no that I have played with it a bit more....Just gotta strip the fenders down and get them in some primer and put them back on the car and begin working it....I do however have some issues with teh headlight buckets and the fenders lining up near the bottom, may have to slot the fenders to roll them in some to make the buckets do what i want.

I will get some pics up so yall can see :P

Got to install my new opentracker suspension this weekend IF it all comes in....4.5 Leaf reverse eyes on back order, and the brake kit i ordered is being built :(

Mike

[sizemoremk 12]

Hey guys, reviving this old post to see if there are anymore inputs.

 

I am no fabricator, so I'm wondering if I'm better off getting new shells, or trying to repair the old ones.

 

On at least one door, the lower part of the skin has some rusted through spots, probably on the other door as well.

 

One door is rusted through the bottom of the shell in a couple of spots.

 

I believe I might could reskin the lower 5-10" of the door, but I'm not sure I'm talented enough to do much about the rot in the bottom of the shell.

 

I hear some of these aftermarket shells are tons of trouble also?

 

Anyone had luck with one recently?

[MikeStang 247]

Just get you a new set it will be less hastle...and you will have free doors

[det0326 179]

SizemoreMK

 

I too replaced my doors with dynacorn repo's. wasn't really happy with them some typical problems were of course gap alignment (which body work is expected on most any replacement) lock fitment as mentioned skin not welded to structure. My biggest problem was my passenger door had to be shimmed to get it back for enough for a proper gap at the 1/4 panel. That being said if I had my time to go over I would have put new skins on my shells. But in your case that would depend on whether or not your skins are sound, mine were. The skins may be more work but I don't think it would be any worse. Now the dynacorn full 1/4 on the other hand were a perfect fit to my amazement. I didn't have a lot of problems with body contour because I replaced fenders doors and full 1/4 panels so I guess all of my contours are not factory but they match. (all of them are consistently

off. LOL

Dave

[Mike65 475]

I replaced the l/s shell & the r/s skin, I think they both look pretty good.

 

[Raven R code 281]

I am about to get my skins put on my shells. I went with skins from Laurel Mountain mustang....supposed to be thicker metal(which it seems to be) but they are a little wavy. I took several measurements from the doors before removing the skins and noticed that the doors differ as much as 1/2" from other door. Plus the factory skin was never crimped right from the factory in the area by the passenger mirror mount. The guy doing my skins has a machine to roll the edges for a factory look. There is a possibility that I may brace the inside of the door to maintain the width because the skins get folded over the lip of the door shell and if the flexes(which it does), it can account for the inconsistencies in the width's. I am looking into spot welding a piece of 3/4" steel conduit to the inside and cut out and remove through the openings in the shell. I hope to have them done in a few weeks and will post pics.

[takoarm 10]

I replaced the passenger door with a Dynacorn shell and had zero problems. Gap is fine and lined up awesome. Plus didn't have to spend a ton of time blocking and re-blocking. Worth the money.

[70fastbak 16]

I used dynacorn door shells also didn't have any problems but I also put full dynacorn quarters on too.