70 bolt in glass issues

[Rcodenewf 44]

Black_69_FB: What i was referring to is the bracket attached to the tube that's bolted at the top portion of the door.

 

With that tube on my bench i scribed a line on the tube and on the bracket itself. That way, when i cut the bracket off flush with the tube i had a reference line to ensure that the bracket was rewelded to the tube in the correct 'clocked' position.

 

69gmachine: Yes, i'll certainly take a few pics of the process as it shouldn't take me too long to correct that side now that i know what needs to be done. Should have some pics by tomorrow if all goes well.

 

I'll update my post then. Thanks....john

[flight96 14]

Yes please on the pics. I too am having hell time lininng up my windows.. Thanks !!

[Renegade600 10]

I just went through this on my '69 coupe....I found one door the glass went in perfect, the other not so good. The front of the window was too far out on mine....pulled everything all back out and got to looking at the front guide. When I look at the opposite side door (which worked well) the welded bracket on the top of the guide was formed or bent differently, I just "massaged" it to look similar to the left door....works great now...look at the guides, a little adjustment or bending makes a big difference.

Tom

[stangme428 33]

body guy wants me to move to 70 glass....

 

• what are all of the benefits? bolt in i know, glue seems to be holding up..
  

 

• what has to be replaced?
  

thanks everyone!!

[Black_69_FB 49]

body guy wants me to move to 70 glass....

 

• what are all of the benefits? bolt in i know, glue seems to be holding up..
  

 

• what has to be replaced?
  

thanks everyone!!

 

If your glue is holding up OK, and everything lines up... I would just leave it alone - unless you want to install power windows.

 

I would also clamp some old heater hose on the window guides @ the bottoms, cut just long enough to keep the glass from bottoming out on the rubber stop in the middle of the door bottom. That way your glass isn't banging on that stop when you roll the windows down, eventually breaking them loose from the mounting brackets they are glued to.

 

Reproduction bolt-in glass will run ~$200/side or more. Plus the brackets for both sides... repro runs close to $250, better off buying used there.

 

CJ Pony Parts has a complete kit, including regulators:

fastback kit

[stangme428 33]

last i looked they were fine... ill check them the next time im at the shop..

thanks for the input!! just a quick hijack and return back to normal.. no further traffic, back to net control...:tongue_smilie:

[Oz69fan 10]

Hi Guys, We are having issues at the moment trying to fit 70 bolt in glass to a 69 Mach1.

 

Think the answer lies within this Thread, so bringing this Thread back to the top so that my son - who is doing the work - can find the Thread.

 

Hope you don`t mind.

 

Rod.

[LiLMike 42]

Not sure what problems you are having but here is a link that explains how to do the conversion. Hope it helps. Mike

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-door-glass/a/153/

[Oz69fan 10]

Not sure what problems you are having but here is a link that explains how to do the conversion. Hope it helps. Mike

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-door-glass/a/153/

 

LiLMike, Thanks very much. I believe it will help greatly with our adjustment problems.

 

Much appreciated.

 

Rod.

[LiLMike 42]

No problem Rod. I was thinking of doing the same thing but the kit is like $800. My windows are ok, they just rattle so I bought all the cat wiskers, guides and such to replace when I tear the doors apart. That should take care of what I need. Glad I found what you needed.....Mike

[CobraMan 10]

Nice posts. I have this issue and will attempt this weekend.

 

Cheers,

[CobraMan 10]

I attempted to install the new glass this weekend and am experiencing the same issues as many whom have posted on this subject. Specifically, the front of the window meets the rubber way to soon. This puts a bunch of pressure on the glass which means it will shatter when shut. Additionally, the window doesn't extend all the way up to meet the top. There is a large gap.

 

I'm confused on the rails. It seems like some state the 69 and 70 rails are identical while others state they are different.

 

Has anyone figured this issue out?

 

Cheers

[pdaz123 10]

Just 10 minutes ago I replaced all 8 of the nylon window guides in the passenger door of my 1969 Coupe. That window has always rattled horribly since I got the car 10 years ago. I was able to get the right-side "C" shaped bracket off easily - it only had ONE nylon window guide (supposed to have 4 for each "C" bracket)

 

I could not tell if the fatter part of the nylon window guides were supposed to be on the top and bottom of each side -- or towards the center of the bracket.

 

When I took off the left-side "C" bracket - it had all 4 nylon window guides - but one was cracked and the other three worn down quite a bit. Based on the orientation of the nylons window guides on that bracket, the fatter part of the window guides is at the top for the upper slots and at the bottom for the lower slots.

 

After I cleaned off hardened 40-year old grease and dirt and pried out the old window guides and installed the FOUR new ones -- the window definitely DOES NOT RATTLE -- it barely even budges, but it does roll up and down quite easily.

 

Now that it does not rattle - it is positioned too far inward - it wants to be further inside the car than the rear window.

 

The position of the right-side vertical window rail that the window slides up and down on is positioned much closer to the door skin than any of the other rails -- apparently a previous owner tried to get rid of the window rattle by adjusting the window rail to reduce the rattle (he should have installed 4 window guides instead of only one)

Edited May 16, 2012 by pdaz123
typos

[pdaz123 10]

Before removing the window regulators in my 69 Coupe, I needed a way to hold the window up. Tape will not work as there is no metal above the window to tape it to.

 

I used 1-inch hose clamps snugged firmly around the vertical round window rails right under the metal base of the window while the window was raised up about 3/4 of the way.

 

That allowed me to easily remove the regulator without the window coming crashing down and cutting my hand(s) off and replace the 1" diameter nylon wheel that was cracked in half - and generally clean it up and put some clean grease where it needs it.

 

I bought 4 nylon roller wheels at Lowe's for about $3.50 that are intended to replace shower door rollers (they install with screws), drilled out the rivet in the broken roller, used two small washers to match the spacing of the old roller - and put it back together with Loctite Medium. I had to cut a screw longer than the ones that came with the set of new rollers. The Lowe's roller is slightly smaller than 1 inch - but it stays in the roller track and works great.

 

A $3.50 fix is a lot easier than buying an aftermarket window regulator - some of the aftermarket parts I have bought were worse than the old somewhat-broken parts that I was trying to replace.

[69gmachine 15]

Just 10 minutes ago I replaced all 8 of the nylon window guides in the passenger door of my 1969 Coupe. That window has always rattled horribly since I got the car 10 years ago. I was able to get the right-side "C" shaped bracket off easily - it only had ONE nylon window guide (supposed to have 4 for each "C" bracket)

 

 

After I cleaned off hardened 40-year old grease and dirt and pried out the old window guides and installed the FOUR new ones -- the window definitely DOES NOT RATTLE -- it barely even budges, but it does roll up and down quite easily.

 

 

Where did you get the nylon guides?

[miketyler 15]

FWIW - I bought a set of those white repop nylon guides from CJP and still have some wobble, more on the drivers side than passenger. Also upgraded to power windows. Both windows fair in pretty nicely with door jam seals when closed. Definitley need to remedy the looseness before I close the doors up

[etel64 10]

Dude ! I have the same issue and still have not figured out how to fix it. I have so many other things to do right now I was putting it off. Anyway, the top of my window is at least 3/4+ too far in and there is no more adjustment. Yes, I have modified the toes of the vertical tubes but found out that causes even more issues to occur.

 

Here is my final approach I will be executing soon. I will be taking the newly glued in window out of its channels and reglueing the window cocked in the window channels. no one has been able to suggest anything else that works. I am not sure what your door situation is but mine is a Dynocorp. I have contacted them and they say there is no complaints about their doors. I have all the factory 69 stuff and the right side is fine on a oem door but the left cant be done.

[pdaz123 10]

First I found the part number at http://www.scottdrake.com

Part Number is C9ZZ-6521496.

 

It is a white plastic (or nylon) guide about 1/2 in wide and about 1 inch long with two tabs that allow it to lock into four places in the "C" bracket.

 

I Googled the part number, found a few places that wanted $3.95 EACH. To replace all of the window guides requires 4 guides in each of the "C" brackets, there are 2 "C" brackets per door, so takes 16 for the two doors.

 

National Parts Depot (NPD) has them for $0.95 each, so I ordered 16 and replaced all of them. On my car, some of the guides were not there at all, some were cracked, some were badly worn.

 

A previous owner probably took out a few of the window guides to compensate for the vertical window rail being bent. With all the new window guides installed, the window was too far towards the inside of the car.

 

I loosened the two bolts that come up through the bottom on the doors that secure the vertical window rails and provide some anount of adjustment. To get the window aligned (almost) correctly, I had to pull the bottom of both vertical window rails the maximum amount towards the inside of the car and then tighten the bottom bolts.

 

The right-hand side vertical window rail on my passenger side door is definitely bent towards the outside of the car - about 1/2 inch. I measured from the inside door skin opening to the vertical rail and it was 3.5 inches. The drivers door measurement in the same place is 3.0 inches.

 

I need about 1/4 inch more adjustment for it to line up correctly. I haven't come up with a way to bend the vertical rail back to the right position. Part of the problem is lack of access to the rail to pull it back into the right shape. To take the rail out would require taking the entire window out to get at the top bolt (the glass is in the way on the right side of the inside of the door). The window now works about the same as it did before -- but there are ZERO door rattles. It is still a little difficult to close the door unless the window is down about 1 inch or so.

 

While working on the windows I noticed that my passenger side has a glue-in window and the drivers side has a bolt-in window, so I got the "fun" of figuring out how to remove the "C" brackets from a glued-in window AND a bolt-in window. The bolt-in window uses a threaded stud with a nut instead of a simple bolt and the "C" bracket also has a plastic pad on it (in my case it was sticky and that made it hard to remove.)

[etel64 10]

suggestion: In order to remove the vertical tubes/guides. I removed the stops and the bottom center bumber to lower the wind down. this gave me barely enough room to get at the top bolt of the rear guide.the front one is easy to get at.

[pdaz123 10]

suggestion: In order to remove the vertical tubes/guides. I removed the stops and the bottom center bumper to lower the wind down. this gave me barely enough room to get at the top bolt of the rear guide.the front one is easy to get at.

 

I figured out how the rear vertical window rail got bent. My 69 Coupe has a '70 window and regulator on the driver side and a '69 window (glued-in) and regulator on the passenger side. The aluminum (or pot metal) base of the '69 glue-in window does not bump into the front upper window stop and it would never bump into it anyway because the position of the normal stop was much too high. The tab that extends from the front window base is not long enough to EVER bump into the front window stop - and the rear upper window stop was set ALL the way to the top.

 

So, for years, former owners and passengers rolled the window all the way up (TOO FAR!), which made the door impossible to close normally, so they slammed the door - eventually breaking all the nylon window guides. (The driver side window guides showed some wear and being brittle - but none of them were broken or missing.)

 

I was unable to find a "correct" front window stop for a '69 glue-in window, so I used an angle grinder to cut a steel bracket to bolt on to the lower part of front window base - about 1.0 inch higher than the original "stop tab" (that looks like someone ground down).

 

Now that the window stops are set correctly, the rear part of the side window stops at 13 & 3/8 in. above the door and the front end of the window (just before the curve) stops at 13 & 7/8 in. above the door - which matches perfectly with the drivers' side window and the weatherstripping along the roof line.

 

To try and get the rails out, I'm going to remove both "C" brackets, remove the rubber bottom stop bumper (old and hard anyway), lower the window all the way down - and then (if needed) disconnect the two upper regulator arms from the window base to try and get an extra 1/2 of clearance.

 

Does anyone have positive experience(s) with new replicated window rails? Scott Drake online catalog shows some - but some of the aftermarket replacement parts are worse than the old worn parts.

[timsmach1 10]

I am putting glue in windows in just got the window clean, I was planning on using urethane windshield glue, was wondering if that was right to use

[etel64 10]

sounds like the right stuff. I suggest letting the ooz alone until it dries. not that I did it different but I can imagine if you try and take the excess off, it will be a dern mess. also, use spacers to ensure the window stays somewhat square to the groove.