RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 5, 2014 Lato, I'm going with a 6 point roll bar, (as of today at 11:55 am) with swing out straight from bars which will attach to the torque box area. The rear bars will also be straight and mount above the frame rails where the Ride Tech triangulated rear susp cradle rear bolts mount, just south of the axle. Ya like those new style coil overs eh? That is where the front mounting bolts for the rear suspension cradle mount. Figured since I'm not putting in the rear seat, I could tie in the rear bars of the roll bar to that mounting point with a tube between the bars. The center section of that bar will be straight and horizontal just above the body metal and bend up at each end to connect to the rear bars. Should be fun welding :) Picked up the rest of the tubing today. Time to get biddy! I really enjoy fabbing stuff like this more than anything. Thanks for the tip on the interior panels. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 7, 2014 So who's freaking idea was it to install a roll bar? Huh? I suppose if I just wanted to do it "close enough" it wouldn't be so tedious. Got the main hoop and two rear bars fitted and tacked. I'm getting too old for this. Just a bit tired. First up, get the car level, then get the the main hoop centered and level, the damn rear bars took forever to fit and tack, Looks simple enough, but crawling in and out of the car all day kicked my arse. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 257 Report post Posted March 7, 2014 See, it wasn't so bad? Just think, if you run door bars, you will be crawling over them ALL the time. It looks good, and nice copings! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 8, 2014 Ya, it wasn't so bad... for you! I was pretty darn sore today. Made a little progress today. My old back is paying the price. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 12, 2014 Was able to get a little work done with the roll bar and seats. The seats are from an 06 Audi A4, and seem to fit. The door bar will be lowered a bit where it attached to the main hoop, and kicked out towards the door with a small bend. Ta ta for now! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted March 13, 2014 how do you install the interior quarter panels? or will you be going custom? 4 SextKecy, JdasonAnowl, ncdruroSor and 1 other reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 14, 2014 Gonna use the stock panels after doing some repairs to them. There will be an about 2" hole in the flat horizontal section of the panel for the hoop. To get the bar in there I will cut a verticle slit from the hole up. To cover the slit I will use a narrow piece of flexible trim molding. If I don't like the look, I'll bond it together and use a spray on textured finish like Duplicolor bed liner. Since my stock panels need repairing, they need a textured spray finish anyway. Figured I've nothing to lose. Edit: Because I won't be using the (very heavy) rear seat, I've decided to not use the quarter interior trim panels. I'll make some flat panels instead.Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) It took many hours to get the A4 driver's seat installed. Several factors cause a PIMA (pain in my ass). The seat is a bit wider than the stock one, all of the rails and adjustments are outboard of the seat edge, I added convertible inner rockers and the one piece conv seat riser hump over the trans tunnel. The lower the seat goes, the narrower the space to fit the seat gets. Getting the seat level took a while for some reason. Probably installed and removed the seat 25 times in all. Other than that, pretty simple conversion.The seat will be in a fixed fore/aft position because it would sit to high for my 6' 3" height. I will use the power seat back adjuster and heated seats. I have no problem with the front/back adjustment as I'm done growing, and it's my car :) Hopefully the passenger seat will go a bit quicker.Bob.photobucket.com/user/robertpmcdougal/media/IMG_20140321_215403_zpsac374d15.jpg.html][/url] Edited March 27, 2015 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 23, 2014 Oh, good news! The passenger seat does not mechanically resemble the drivers seat at all. Nice. Lovely German over engineering. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) Got the passenger seat frame built, and thankfully it was much easier than the driver's side. Not only was the main pivot tube for the seat back a different id than the driver's side, each end hole was different. Typical German over thinking. So glad this step is done. I think the Audi seats fit the car better than the AMG seats in looks and fitment. Not using the 06 Mercedes AMG CLK 63 seats, which are 2" wider than Audi. One issue I had to over come with the Audi seats is the mounting tracks are 2" wider than the Benz seat, and rested on the inner rocker and trans tunnel. Bob Edited March 26, 2014 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 257 Report post Posted March 26, 2014 How is the head room with those seats? Looks like they are going to be nice and plush. The inner rockers make for some fun fittment issues don't they? Check where your seat belt attaches to the tunnel, mine is STUPIDLY tight to the seat, and might have to be modified. Looking good Bob! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) Headroom should be OK with 5" to the roof. I had to chuckle when you mentioned the seat belt bolts, as I thought I'd have to relocate mine. After final fitting I think I'll be fine with the stock location, but they are gonna be tight. I now believe I know why the convertible seat risers are 1" higher. DOH! I'm surprised I didn't install the roll bar door bars before the seats, then discover they interfere :) I seem to be getting better. Bob Edited March 26, 2014 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted April 1, 2014 Need to do the door bars to complete the roll bar. Thought I give a try on making the swing out hinges that weld into the tubes as they want a fortune to buy them. Piece of round 2" bar cost 10 bucks, and I get paid nothing around here watching TV. Started with this: Hope to end up with these: We shall see. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted April 12, 2014 This may end up being one of those projects where I'll end up wishing I'd have bought the part instead of making it. The machining isn't that difficult, just takes forever on my little home lathe. Started by turning down the round bar to 1-3/4", then turning down the part which slips into the roll bar tube. Then cut a length which will make 2 of the male ends. I'll turn one side, rotate the piece 180° and turn the other side to a final thickness of .625. I cut the piece in two. I still need to drill the 5\8" hole and radius the end. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 257 Report post Posted April 12, 2014 I would have never thought of using a four jaw chuck to "mill" something in a lathe. How cool is that! Are you playing with 303, or 1018? Looks like fun to me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted April 12, 2014 Ya, don't know how I had a clear moment to think of doing it that way. One of my really smart brothers said it was ingenious. I said that it was more likely the blind squirrel theory. It's 1018 mild steel. I've never had any good luck with stainless, probably because my head is just as hard. Milling stuff sure beats mowing the lawn. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 One side ready, half way done. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Pretty close to being done with the door bars. Gonna tig the clevis/hinge dealies to the tube ends this weekend. Then I can mig the door bar ends to the main hoop and floor. . Yep, I know, crappy pics :( Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip Rock 13 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Very nice stuff going on here. Love the swing away door bar!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Thanks Rip Rock. I don't know how I lost track of your build thread, thought I was subscribed. Holy crap, guess I've missed a bit of your engine swap. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rip Rock 13 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Thanks Rip Rock. I don't know how I lost track of your build thread, thought I was subscribed. Holy crap, guess I've missed a bit of your engine swap. Bob I was lazy and didn't post the swap on here. Lol. You didn't miss it, it was my fault. I'm looking forward to your final results of you cage. Your doing a very good job on your car so far, love it. :cool2: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 257 Report post Posted April 30, 2014 Your parts came out quite nice!!! I like the way the bars fit up to the door when both are open. Are you going to brace the lower tube to the rocker, just in case? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted April 30, 2014 Thanks guys, if I can do half as good a job as all y'all I'll be quite happy. Yes lato I will be adding a brace/gusset of some sort to ease my mind. I don't like the looks of those without them. I don't really think I'll ever use the door bars much, but thought I'd put them in "while I'm at it". Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,269 Report post Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) Man, I gotta get me another tig. Using one ever year or two ain't getting it. Sold my first one because it was a huge Linde 305, sold the second one a never used Miller syncrowave 180 because I was a drunk. Half my life ago at age 29, I could run some really nice beads if I say so myself. Today I felt like I had the shakes from not drinking, which I stopped doing 2-1/2 years ago. Anywho, got the door bars nearly done, just need to weld them to the floor and main hoop. Bob Edited May 4, 2014 by RPM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted May 4, 2014 man ... those look good!!! great work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
