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RPM

The Bitch is Back!

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4 hours ago, RPM said:

 The difference is less than the weight I've put on this past year :) 

What I meant to convey was that I've put on a bunch of weight, so extra pounds from the tranny is not where I need to shed pounds. I know that fmx is a bit heavier than the C4. Around 60 lbs if my memory serves me correctly.

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Searching the internet yields no accurate information for the differences. It ranges between 5 and 70. I am thinking 70 is closer to accurate. When I put the FMX in a friends car It felt like about 250. Thinking about it that was actually almost 25 years ago. Wow how time flies. It is by far the heaviest transmission I remember. Most autos are around 170 to 180.  When I put that thing in I could bench press it. but now I would not even try. Too many times of getting a face full of transmission fluid and smashing some body part while putting them in.

Picture are my latest when pulling a 4L60E in the junk yard. They don't let you take jacks into the yard. My Hand was in the way. And no luckily I did not break any bones this time.

I know what you mean. When I hit my mid 30's my waist grew all the way up to 38 and I weighed in at about 250 Lbs.. It took me Years to get back down to a 34 and now I have to really watch what I eat or it just comes right back. I just celebrated my 47th and weight less than I did when I was 18 but have about 10 times as much body fat. It really sucks getting old. But I am happy if I can stay around 200. I finally broke the 200 mark earlier this year. The biggest thing I have to watch out for is soda pop. especially Mountain dew. And when I am working out in a hot garage it has to be one of the things I want the most. I actually started eating more but different types of food and it made a huge difference. Not counting calories or anything like that just replacing some of the sugary stuff with fruit and trying to eat more veggies. I also try to stay away from processed foods now. I still can not give up my chocolate thought. I have tried. Just not going to happen. Nothing better that chocolate and Carmel.

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The worst part about that cut was that it put me out of commission for car work for about 2 months. The day I got the stitches out, I ripped it open grabbing a cup of coffee, And to top that off he transmission was bad. I was not able to find out it was bad until the warranty was up. I should have just rebuilt my original one. It would have been cheaper than all those stitches... An the truck would be fixed already.

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About a week ago I was removing the left front wheel, that is until one of the last nuts seized. Oy! Now I always start the nuts by hand and carefully tighten them and finish with a torque wrench. I suppose there best laid plans often go away. Two impact wrenches failed to budge it so I resorted to leverage with a cheater bar on a breaker bar. Finally snapped the ARP wheel stud. New stuff should be here today. The point of this post is as easy as these cars are to work on with plenty of room compared to newer cars, this is back breaking work for me bending over and under the fenders.

Had to modify a couple of tools to fit on the inner nuts on the upper control arm. The wrench in the first pic helps me tighten the uca bolts alone. Neither a ratchet or end wrench would work. It looks like there's room to fit a ratchet but nope.

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I've already made two sets of steering tie rod adjusters, first of steel and the second from 1" 6061 hex bar. Ever since a member here said his Baer adjusters were 1-1/8" hex I've been wanting to redo mine in 1-1/8". Picked up a foot of it, cut it in half, a little fun on the lathe, cut some threads and voila. I'll sleep better.595ade569828a_822Tierodadjuster.thumb.jpg.3825cf17de0329a93829129e0a720697.jpg

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I suppose the impact would've been greater if I took a before pic, but c'est la vie. Knowing my aftermarket rear valance didn't fit worth a darn,  and reading about the horrors of getting them to fit, I wasn't looking forward to working on mine. I think I delayed it in case I might die before having to take on the task.
 
One issue I hadn't read of was the spot welded on mounting brackets wouldn't accept the hidden bolts which clip in and the stud goes into the inner lower quarter panel. Nice.  I had an original beat to crap Henry Ford steel valance that I removed the mounting brackets from and welded onto the aftermarket unit. I mounted the panel to the car and noticed the gap on both sides was too big. Now both of my quarter panels have been repaired several times, so bad repairs might be part of the bad fit. I figured I could move the panel to the right a bit and only have to add metal to the left side. Once I had the round mounting holes made into ovals, the radius of the right side needed a lot of massaging. This move made the top of the left radius have about a 5/16" gap and the lower about 1/8". In addition, the area above the left side of the main panel needed to be cut and welded to increase the radius. 
 
Been at it of and on for two days. A little more fitting tomorrow and I'll be done, and happy with it.
 
These are the worthless aftermarket brackets.
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The right side fit is real nice when the hidden bolt is tightened.
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The left needs more majic.
 
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I used a dynacorn valance on my 69 ,the original was toast .The sides were about 3 /16 short .I trimmed the side edges off the originals about 1/4 inch ,over laid  them on the dynacorn valance while it was bolted on the car and scribed a line .cut the dynacorn valance and butt welded the edges back on .once the weld was ground it looks great with perfect gaps .The stud clips fit the dynacorn panel .didn't take very long to fit .of course it was on the rotisserie and turned upside down 

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Guess I should've driven up to your place Jim :)

My son just told me I was installing the clips wrong on the mounting studs. DOH! I tried it with the spring tab under the bracket, not on top. Ya big dummy.

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Yup ,that is how it goes .The little nub on the bottom of the spring clip hooks the edge of the round part of the hole and supposed to keep the clip from sliding out ,that is why the spring clip may need to be bent down to preload the clip so it will hook 

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Hmm... Somebody forgot to leave an access to bolt up the hidden studs in the rear valance when they did the trunk encloser. One step forward,  2,3 or 4 steps back.

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Cleaned up the window brackets and glued in the glass. Also installed the door handles. Now if I can only find the door locks and quarter windows, but it's not looking too good. 

 

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Started working on the passenger side door trim panel. Making the second of anything sure is easier than the first.

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Mounted the new tires, what a difference from the rock hard run flats. Also put in a Facet electric fuel pump. 59bdea33084a7_reartirewheel.thumb.jpg.ed5c66a822b6a80fad612ae9be21b5a4.jpg 59bdea33084a7_reartirewheel.thumb.jpg.ed5c66a822b6a80fad612ae9be21b5a4.jpg

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Found a right side quarter window in a box of parts a buddy gave me.  The two oe windows are still m.i.a. I drove down to Mustang MD in Castaic to get a left quarter window.  The frames are enroute from NPD. It'll be nice to be able to lock up the car.

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I just love the place. Mustang and Ford's everywhere.  Early K codes,  GT's, Mach 1's. This motor is going into his GT350 clone.  Hmm, the block has screw in freeze plugs. 

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front tire wheel.jpg

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