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RPM

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Ha! Wrong thread Jim! But your pics reminded me I have one original from my car I replaced due to a crack, which I later repaired by tig welding it. It has less black than yours Jim.

IMG_20170609_151700.jpg

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5 hours ago, RPM said:

Ha! Wrong thread Jim! But your pics reminded me I have one original from my car I replaced due to a crack, which I later repaired by tig welding it. It has less black than yours Jim.

IMG_20170609_151700.jpg

Oh well ,you still saw it .I done deleted them from my cell ...better be carful stomping that pedal with that foot dangling by a thread the way it is ,it may fall of :)

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Ha, forgot to post my progress for the day. Got the switch holes laid out and made. Now I gotta finger out what finish to do on it. The Spal switches come with a variety of template placements which saved me some fab time.

593ccbed6f5d8_consoleswitchbezel.thumb.jpg.edab8e35854e3ebfd579974a8e690e61.jpg

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Watch your language Casey. Flock is an almost powdery material of short stands that is blown at low pressure onto the pre glued surface of the glove box that matches the original pretty well. Without searching I don't know what material flock is made from.

I'm leaning towards engine turning the aluminum, or maybe a bedliner finish.

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I used Rustoleum Hammered black in several areas in my garage and on my stang. it turned out pretty good. Some of the cabinets in my garage have been painted with it for about 5 years and are holding up quite well. I pressure wash my garage at least 6 times a year and the paint is still sticking. This grille is and the cover on the top is done with hammered black.

Grille-Cropped-20161124_134317.jpg

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I went the cheap route and blasted it with aluminium oxide and clear coated it. If it gets easily scuffed and starts to look like crap I'll revisit this project.

 

593dfbd3a7634_switchbezel.thumb.jpg.8d90bafeebff93821b206410c90ad6bb.jpg

 

 

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I did that with my Valve Covers, Alternator, and brackets. Blasted, Brushed and then Matte finish clear coat. it turned out good and is holding up. I don't think you will have a problem. The hardest part was getting the brushing to look uniform. I actually sanded it with 36 grit paper to get the brushed look into the aluminum.

The little scratches you see in the alternator are actually in the clear from me hitting it on something when I was installing it. You can also see the edge of the valve cover to get an Idea of how this method looks.

 

Your switch panel looks good.

08.JPG

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Welp, hopefully I've finally found the leak in the fmx tranny. The gasket on the vacuum modulator was cracked. It only has 250 miles since the rebuild, so I'm guessing it's the original.  One problem locating it was because the leak was intermittent and I never saw any fluid around it until recently. Ran it for a while and not one drop off trans fluid. It just might be my lucky day.IMG_20170620_214102.thumb.jpg.3dc5ff4dc33a0cfd84d9efb90312afc9.jpg

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I weighed both my fmx and my C4. The difference is less than the weight I've put on this past year :) Besides, it's not a race car, the weight is low, the C4 was a used unit and the fmx was already rebuilt, the FMX is original to the car. 

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OK So I exaggerated but I remember pulling an FMX several years ago and it seemed a lot heavier than the C6 I had pulled the previous week. It would be interesting to put the 2 on a scale and see what the difference is. Also when you are bench pressing a transmission into a car 10 lbs more can seem like a lot. Especially if things do not line up on the first try.

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